DVD lost AVCHD data

[Diogo0880]

Hey guys.
First, I'm sorry if this is the wrong area to post this and also I'm sorry about my english, is kinda badly...

Ok, about a month ago, I converted and authored some movies in AVCHD and burned them on some DVD's with nero. To make de conversion I used uncropMKV and to do the authoring I used multiAVCHD.
After burn it on the DVD, I tested it out on my PC and Blu-ray player and everything it was fine.
Well, now about 50% of my DVD's with AVCHD are unreadable in my Blu-ray player and also in my PC, what is kinda weird.
I think its probably data loss, but it is very strange because I have my DVDs all together and stored in good conditions and all the other plays fine.

Anyone can help in here? I confused about this situation

[fritzi93]

Some will probably say you used bad media. However, it's unclear whether *properly stored* DVDs can "go bad". Lord Smurf, our resident media expert, (and apologies if I misrepresent his views), would say no, the burn was bad to begin with. I dunno.

One clear exception is if you slap a sticky label on your DVDs. You aren't are you?

It is odd, though, that you say you tested them and they were fine, although now they can't be read on either your standalone or your PC's DVD drive. That would tend to rule out a player problem.

That said, you shouldn't be using Nero to burn AVCHDs, you should use ImgBurn. And multiAVCHD can be a difficult proposition in regard to getting it to output files compatible with one's players. If one doesn't need menus, it would be much simpler and more reliable to use tsMuxer instead to mux the uncropMKV output.

[Diogo0880]

Ok, I installed Imgburn now and am testing it. But what is odd is that half of my collection of AVCHD's is well reproduced, but the other half is rejected. That and the fact that they have stopped working without reason that confuses me.
There are some chances to recover what was recorded in the DVDs?

Oh I forgot to say. All the AVCHD's of my collection were recorded and converted in the same way, using the same methods. There is no logic that after one month, some fail ...

[Diogo0880]

Already converted and recorded a new AVCHD DVD and works well, but the others continue to be rejected...

Help me

[Ai Haibara]

What media did you use for the 'problem' discs? You didn't use DVD-RWs, did you?

If you're in doubt (if you're using cheap/bargain discs, for example), you can use Imgburn to get the Media ID for the discs. With one of the blanks in the writer, open Imgburn. Select 'Build' from the Mode menu, and click on the 'Device' tab in the window. Imgburn will list information about the disc, including its Media ID.



Are the rejected discs still readable in a computer? If not, you can try ISOBuster (shareware) or ISOPuzzle to try to retrieve the contents of the DVDs.

[Noahtuck]

There is no logic that after one month, some fail ...

Yeah there is....
CRAPPY MEDIA!!!!!!
But you have yet to say what media you are using that failed after 1 month

Some will probably say you used bad media.

Yep....

However, it's unclear whether *properly stored* DVDs can "go bad".

Oh, they can, even pressed DVD's if they were made poorly, manufacturers defects, etc.

Lord Smurf, our resident media expert, (and apologies if I misrepresent his views), would say no, the burn was bad to begin with. I dunno.

Yeah we had a disagreement years ago about that....

He said pressed media does not go bad nor does burned media, it was a bad burn....

Anyone remember "laser rot" ?

I have an official U.S. released pressed dvd of "The Planet of the Apes" that I bought brand new years and years ago and after watching it umpteen times and it played fine, then not watching it for a year or so, I got it out and it was freezing, pixelating, stuttering, and it looks like it was just bought!!! not a single scratch or mark!!!
And it would not rip in any of my dvd drives.
And I have had a LOT of them over the years and at least 6-8 installed in my running systems at any given time.

I have also seen many DVDR & CDR media play back fine after the initial burn, and several times after for a year or two then after not using for a few years, POOF!!!!!!!
GONE!!!
No way to recover anything!!!

And I have personally burned truly garbage media that pixelated and failed miserably right after a burn.

It can be a wide gambit of results which is why you stick to reliable media, a penny or two in savings per disc is not worth it and will cost you more in time and effort than the savings is worth.
Even with so called "name brand" & famously known media.....
Because anyone who knows, knows most media is NOT made by the name brand stamped on the disc or package...

But back to the main point.....

WHAT MEDIA ARE YOU USING!!!!!!!

Which you never stated in any of your 3 post's.....
No one here is a mind reader so we have no clue unless you actually give relevant and specific details.....

[Diogo0880]

Oh yes, I forgot to tell the brand of media. I use the Memorex DVD's and Mitsai. These are bad?
I'm not sure which brand should I use ... Almost all DVD's I have are one of these brands

Yes, Ai Haibara, none of my players (BD or PC) can read the DVD's that fail.
In PC, the player tries to read the DVD but can never get into the inside ...


PS: Initially I burn it on a DVD-RW to see if the menus are well done. Then I burn it on a DVD-R.
It may be because it is a DVD-R?

The AVCHD that work fine are from the same brand that the ones who fail...

[jman98]

For the record I agree with Noahtuck and I disagree with Lord Smurf about whether a "good burn" can "go bad".

Memorex is mostly bad media. That doesn't mean that it's impossible to get a good burn from it. But I've seen this "yesterday it was good, today it won't play" kind of thing before from low quality media. I'm not familiar with Mitsai, which means it's probably bad too. Again, bad doesn't mean "100% coasters". Bad means "You're going to have a LOT more problems than you think if you use this media, but some of them will be OK". Whether the "some" that are OK is 75% or 50% or 25% depends on a lot of factors - the quality of the batch, how fast your burned it (slower burning is better on low quality media and generates fewer disc errors) and so on.

There's no problem with DVD-R. You need to use either Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim (do not use their "Life" series of discs, but other discs they make are OK) for the best quality. You may have to buy those online. Unfortunately Europe is now like the USA/Canada and most of the manufacturers only sell low quality media to consumers. If for some reason you cannot buy Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim, I'd recommend trying Sony. Sony usually uses the worst manufacturers but sometimes they use the good ones so you could get lucky. Any disc you burn that is not Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim needs to be burned not faster than 4x for the best chance of success.

[fritzi93]

I always burn with ImgBurn and always verify the discs. The few times I've had a *verified* burn "go bad" I can't be absolutely certain it wasn't from mis-handling or poor storage. Although I'm usually careful about how I handle and store my discs. Experienced members here disagree, and again, I just dunno. Maybe I've been lucky.

The OP hasn't answered my question as to whether (sticky) labels were used. That would screw up discs right there, for sure. And did the OP verify the burns? Play them right through on his/her standalone? I'd want answers to those questions before ruling out the possibility that the burns were bad or borderline in the first place.

Anyway, Memorex are in my experience CMC-MAG, invariably so for the last few years. They have a poor reputation. Okay for "tossers", i.e. unimportant stuff, but you better verify the burns and burn at less than rated speed.

[Diogo0880]

OK, just realized that I am a noob in this ... I had no idea that burn at high speeds caused problems and had not the slightest idea that Memorex was a bad media.
Actually, I also did not know that the "check disk" ensured that everything was fine, usually skipped this part

Probably my mistake was to burn a Memorex / Mitsai media at 16x speed and not check at the end.
I'm from Portugal, I'll see if there are Verbatim or Taiyo Yuden here.

Also I am not able to recover the data recorded with the programs that mate Ai Haibara said ... I'll keep trying and I will give news, it may be that this information will be useful for someone

Thanks guys for all the help provided so far

PS: fritzi93 I do not use labels.

[dragonkeeper]

its good that you're using imgburn its absolutely the best burning software available. That being said to get the best burns you have to use quality media, the term "you get what you pay for" comes to mind cheap media equal problems. The problems may or not be immediately apparent which is why you should\must verify burns if you plan to archive them. And don't use sticky labels, permanent marker or disk printing are you only safe methods of labeling a disk.

[Diogo0880]

And don't use sticky labels, permanent marker or disk printing are you only safe methods of labeling a disk.

Yes I use permanent markers on the DVDs and then print a cover for the case

[fritzi93]

Actually, I also did not know that the "check disk" ensured that everything was fine, usually skipped this part

It's not a guarantee, but it's helped me occasionally in identifying a bad burn. Or a "marginal" burn for which the drive will slow down in places and struggle to read the disc, which it may eventually do. You have to look at the log to spot this (average read speed), or better, watch the verification process for slowdowns, but that's not really practical.

I had to do the above for a couple spindles of Titan (CMC_MAG) dual-layer discs to identify the good burns. The ones that passed verification but had slowdowns usually had problems (glitches, freezes) on them when played on a Sony BD standalone. That in addition to the outright failures, of which there were all too many. Note that almost every one that failed had supposedly burnt successfully, according to ImgBurn. Media quality is important, especially for dual-layer discs. When members here say that Verbatim DL discs are the only ones that are fairly reliable, they know what they're talking about. I mention all this because it illustrates what I mean, though it's an extreme example. Lots of people get away with burning "crap" media for a while and think their burns are okay, but it's gonna come back and bite them sometime. Best to use good media at less than rated speed, your choice as to whether verification is worth your time.

What verification means is that the drive doing the verification (usually the one that did the burn) can actually read the burnt disc without errors. It compares against the original data source on your hard drive.

Now, whether another drive or standalone player can read it is another matter.

[lordsmurf]

Quickly replying, by request...

Write-once and pressed media does not magically go bad. That's a myth. No science supports it. The factors that affect degradation are long-term (decades) exposure to humidity and heat. The materials also age naturally over the course of a century. It takes a lot of effort to age-accelerate discs.

Furthermore, if you didn't initially check the disc with reliable methods -- which virtually nobody does -- then you're not following the scientific method. It's just making up random crap to explain a situation. It's not much different than blaming rain on an angry god on Mt Olympus. Note that the "verify disc" feature in burning software is rarely accurate or useful.

Laser rot only applies to Laserdisc. It does not and cannot affect CD, DVD, Blu-ray, etc. It's unique to the LD format because of the structure unique to that disc.

I see that Wikipedia has a disputed article on "disc rot", and largely takes references out of content. Most of them show examples of poor production, where discs were always bad, and not "rot". Lousy presses are common, and cheap materials combined with poorly-maintained assembly lines are to blame. That's the same reason cheap dye-based media is crap. But it starts that way, it doesn't "go" that way. The article on "CD rot" is baloney, too -- that's just damage to the top layer of the disc, as caused by users. The sources are far from reliable, and rely purely on quoted speculations, and zero scientific study. Pay close attention to that fact.

The only discs that can "go bad" are RW and RAM media, and quite often do, because the structure of the media is susceptible to quick changes in the materials. That's an intentional feature of the media, not a flaw, because it was made to be reused. It was not made for archival needs, however. If you store something on a RW/RAM disc for longer than a few weeks, you screwed up.

Realize my experience comes from studying tens of thousands of discs over a period of well over a decade now.

Memorex is a cheap brand, using discs from low-grade/cheap manufacturers. Always has been, probably always will be. It was that way with CDs, VHS tapes, and audio tapes. Cheap junk, now and always.

If you care about your content:
1. Use Verbatim (Mitsubishi) or Taiyo Yuden
2. Verify the discs with mix of visual inspection, TRT and surface scan.

[Diogo0880]

Thank you so much for your help guys, and a special thanks to lordsmurf for the response of my help request.
I have found JVC Taiyo Yuden DVD's and i plan to order it.

One more question, if i burn my memorex discs at very low speed (1x), im still in risk? Is that I bought 50 DVD's

[fritzi93]

I always burned Memorex (CMC_MAG) single-layer DVDRs at 8x and had very few failures. That was on a Samsung, a Lite-On, and an LG burner.

I should think burning at so slow a speed as 1x (if you can) would be as bad or worse than burning at rated speed. I burn very few DVDs or AVCHDs any more though.