Hi
I plan to buy at Meritline.com 2x50-spindles of ridata branded Riteks soon. Where are they made in China or Taiwan?
http://www.meritline.com/showproduct...ridata-branded
thanks
NBK
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There is no such thing as "good" Ritek. So it really doesn't matter where they are made, does it?
If you care about quality discs, and you appear to NOT care, you need to buy either Taiyo Yuden or Verbatim. End of story. -
They're CD-R media. It doesn't matter anymore with CD media. I haven't had a bad CD-R burn in at least a decade.
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Yeah i have to agree with that.
Even though i usually try to stay with verbatim CD-R, just because i have always been a Verbatim fan since before DVDR came about,
any time i have used other brands that i would never touch in DVDR format, and regardless of what cheap no-name/Garbage named brand friends have bought that were sitting on a biglots shelf for $2.00, as long as you don't burn them at the highest speed, there is not usually an issue.
Although including the cost of shipping for those ritek from meritline, you can get a 100 pack of Verbatim CD-R's for less $$ from your local Officemax when they have them on sale for $15.00 a 100 pack.
For a 50 pack or Ritek from meritline, $16.83 including shipping, a 100 pack of Verbatim's from Newegg, $18.98 including shipping. $2.15 for an extra 50 cdr's.... that's a no brainer!!Last edited by Noahtuck; 16th Aug 2010 at 12:53.
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Last edited by NBK2; 16th Aug 2010 at 12:39.
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CD-R media is not the same as DVDR media, there is not a really big difference between them.
Usually the only problem with CD-R media is the cheaper crap that has just a thin layer of reflective material on the side you would write on with a marker that flakes off easily, no name brand on the label, shiny like a mirror, we used to call them "silvers" back in the day.
And to condemn an entire brand because they introduced ONE new series or NAME and make that on series cheaper by outsourcing them is just ridiculous.
Hell, we all better stop buying Verbatim MIS DL dvdr's then
I have no name brand cdr's, sony cdr's, verbatim cdr's, and many other's that i used for music and PS1 games from the late 90's, circa 98-99, and they still work fine. -
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I've used Sony and TDK(90 minute) CD-Rs almost exclusively for the past 6 years and never a coaster. 3 LG drives, Prassi Ones, ImgBurn and burn 8x MAX....Done.
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It does matter.
What changes is the reliability % on coaster count. On CD-R, it shifts upwards.
Instead of a second-rate media being about 80% reliable, a CD-R would "only" be about 95% reliable.
Top rated media goes from 95-99% to about 99-100%
Even low grade media goes from a 50-50 status to about 90% reliable.
The manufacturers trend almost identical to the DVD media list (best discs vs worse discs).
There are issues with burn speeds and drives to account for, too, just like blank DVDs.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
Yeah the only time i ever had an issue or saw an issue with audio on cdr's is when people think just because the media is rated high and their burner will burn them fast, they need to burn them at 48x, 52x, ect.
Every single time when the speed of the burn was dropped to 16x or less, viola, the disc played perfectly from start to finish.
It's the first thing i tell anyone, make sure you are burning at 16x or less and just like that no more problems.
Like that extra 30 seconds is such a time saver to burn a cdr. -
Actually, I've found quite a few discs to burn poorly below 24x-40x.
While I personally prefer 16x myself, the media just does not allow for it.
Indeed, quite a few DVD burners have a minimum speed of 24x for CD.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
Like I've said....my coaster count is ZERO...in DECADES of CD-R media. I use Sony and TDK CD-R media.
I'm sure as HELL not gonna go out and buy Sony and TDK DVD media to replace my present batch. Why not?
Because Sony and TDK DVD media are garbage. -
Try some no-name discs sometime.
Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
I dare you to burn 100 Memorex CD-R, test all 100 (scans + use), and then find 100% success rate.
Then come back in 6 months, and see how they hold up. CD-R, unlike DVD, have exposed upper layers. I've seen pin-sized holes in media, even on Verbatim CD-R, in the past few years. More than I had in the past decade. Oxygen enters the dye layer, bye-bye data.
To accelerate it, put them in the car when it's cold. Not hot, like most would think, but cold. I left some CD-R in my car when it was -2 (F) last year, and the discs were all screwed. The expansion as the car warmed up caused the materials to separate and/or develop problems. (Note: You can't use a freezer -- not the same. Too moist.) It was interesting. All I lost were 6 burns (out of 10) of some MP3s I bought. The other 4 discs were not "bad" but definitely not the same anymore. Those would skip now. Easy to re-burn. Silver-top TY discs are an easy target. Lacking any coating, they go first. Branded media take more effort.
I like breaking media for research.
I'm not disagreeing with you -- CD-R is fairly problem free. And it's not that the discs have gotten better, but rather the drives have. Compared to writing a Blu-ray or DVD, CD is easy, as the wobble grooves are 7 times wider than a DVD, many times larger than BD-R. Stability advancements of latter-gen media were a benefit to CD media.
But if you want to say it's 100% infallible, I just cannot skip challenging such a statement!Last edited by lordsmurf; 17th Aug 2010 at 14:31.
Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
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Simply a matter of CD-R vs DVD-R (and DVD+R).
CD has that exposed layer. It will age faster than DVD, which is where the confusion comes in.
DVD is sandwiched, protected from the elements.
And the only reason it's accurate is because of the subpar materials used by cheap knock-off grade manufacturing.
Good discs won't be affected by the "6 months" syndrome.
Although Chinese Verbatims and silver-top TY discs can be damaged with abuse. (-2 F degree test, for example)
People that use the "6 months" line with write-once DVDs are clueless. With CDs, it's accurate.
It's one of those things that is misunderstood.
Sort of like confusing VCD x240 with VHS "240 lines". People still say VCD=VHS in some places online. Totally wrong.
It would help if more folks read instead of skimmed. (Not you, but all the others out there that say stupid crap.)
The "6 months" statement is true for all RW media, too, CD or DVD. Those materials can crap out fast.
External protection doesn't help there. The materials are just unstable sometimes.
DVD+RW seems to be far more affected than DVD-RW or CD-RW, however. Lots of cratering on the platter.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS
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