Is there any difference between those USB stick wireless adapters and the PCI wireless network adapters? I was using Netgear MA101 all this time and it was not compatible with XP SP2 so I'm now temporarily using a USB stick adapter Netgear WG111 802.11g. I might be upgrading to Windows 7 soon and that's not compatible so I'm looking to buy a new one.
I also got a new Buffalo router WHR-HP-G54 and I think it is 802.11b/g. Stupid question but I'm guessing it's pointless if I buy a wireless adapter that is 802.11n?
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If you have a 'G' router, a 'N' adapter won't do anything for you. And wouldn't work unless it can also do 'G'. I've used several USB wireless adapters, 'G' and 'N' both and they have worked fine for me. A PCI card [s:c9ca5d59a4]router[/s:c9ca5d59a4] adapter may give you slightly better performance as far as more distant reception, but there won't be any difference in speed if your signal strength is sufficient.
Why isn't your preset USB [s:c9ca5d59a4]router[/s:c9ca5d59a4] adapter not compatible with W7? No drivers?
But if you are not moving your PC around, a PCI slot adapter may be the cheapest and most stable solution, outside of a wired connection. This also depends on whether you have a spare PCI slot. Newer computers don't have many of those any more. -
To use the Netgear WG111 802.11g under windows 7, enter F8 during boot and select option > Disable Driver Signature Enforcement ... works but its a pain having to do this every time the system is started
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Originally Posted by Sakuya
Should have been 'PCI card adapter'. I'll edit the post.
Yes, a PCI wireless adapter similar to the one you linked to that is W7 compatible would seem to be the best solution. -
So I've gotten Windows 7 up and running and the Netgear WG111 wireless adapter to work too. I followed this guide to get it working. While the installation did say it failed, it worked after a restart. And no need to manually press a key each time Windows starts.
But this leads me to another problem where the adapter randomly disconnects from time to time, at least once a day. My laptop's wifi still works at the time so it has to be the adapter. I tried disabling automatically turning off the device to save power in Power Management but so far doesn't seem to be working. -
Are you getting good signal strength? I assume so as the laptop is working. You should be able to check that in your wireless network settings.
Are you using DHCP with your router where your PCs don't have fixed addresses? If so changing to fixed addresses may help. I've had to do that to help from getting dropouts with some adapters.
Are you using data encryption with the wireless router? You should. I use WPA-2 AES. But if you are, try temporarily disabling it for a few hours. Just be careful as your network would be available to anyone near. If that helps, then the decryption in W7 or your adapter drivers may need updating. -
A major advantage to the USB sticks is that you can use a USB extension cable for improved antenna placement.
While an "N" unit will give no advantage with a "G" router, it will be all ready to go when you eventually upgrade the router. Almost all such units are backward-compatible.
For the current issue, check to see if it disconnects during cell phone or microwave usage. These can interrupt some wireless connections. Check the Event Logs for any information. -
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I have one of each: PCI card and USB stick; both work well. Mine only have a short distance to go through wood-frame walls, so others will have to advise you on that. But I have a few neighbors, all ~ 100 yards or so away, and can pick up their networks just fine. Had to go over and show one of them how to set the encryption.
The point about a USB stick having an advantage in placement is a good one, I'd advise going with USB.Pull! Bang! Darn! -
Originally Posted by fritzi93
Originally Posted by redwudz -
1- Usually internal adapters have antenna connection and most USB adapters don't
2- Don't buy out of date technology unless you buy it very cheap.
3- Instead of buying USB adapter if you are not using it for mobile situations consider buying a wireless bridge like D-link 1522 it almost cost the same but you get 4 outlet across the wireless.
4- Beware of older wireless adapters not all supported all the encryptions .
5- If you are going to be a Linux user buy something that supports windows MAC and linux. -
As far as the walls go, it depends hugely on what they are made of. Basically, the less metal, the better.
Different materials have dramatically different effects on radio waves. I mentioned this in another thread and found it tremendously funny at the time, so I'll repeat it - glass is transparent. -
Around my part of the country, many home exteriors are surfaced with stucco cement, laid over a net of metal resembling chicken wire. Makes very good RF insulation.
Not often used on interior walls, though. The most common interior sheeting is 'sheetrock', resembling chalk, and it passes RF fairly well. But some homes now use sheetmetal 'studs' to support the walls and it can cause some problems.
It also helps to place the router up a bit higher than surrounding metal objects like filing cabinets, etc.
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