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  1. Member
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    OK,

    I read as much as I could for the past 2 days before I posted. Some of what I read is a bit dated... so I want to make sure I take advantage of the best of what's available today.

    I have a ton of old high school football vhs tapes I want to convert to DVD. My current VCR is a Sony SLV-D380P (it's a combo... has DVD also). I also own a Canopus ADVC-110.

    After reading, I found that getting something with TBC would probably enhance the final quality of my DVDs. I guess my choice would be to pick up a vhs player that has TBC built on (from ebay) or by a stand alone tbc (like the tbc-1000). Question #1, Any thoughts/recommendations?

    Again, I figured that the best quality I could come up with (with not an over abundance of time per tape) would be to then capture tape to hard drive (AVI-Type2) using a capture program. Then edit and author and write out to dvd.

    Does the capture program matter much? If I want to mask the left and bottom side of the AVI (which only look bad on PC playback) is there a capture program that will do that for me?

    Any suggestion on authoring software? I started to play with Nero Vison (which I'm sure isn't the best), but it seems to do everything I want it to do.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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  2. Member classfour's Avatar
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    Fastest: DVD recorder+TBC+High Quality VCR. I have another model of Sony and hate it - it won't even play tapes recorded on it (or other VHS VCRs; but will play commercial VHS tapes (only). Model NP55.

    I use a JVC professional model VCR that I picked up on ebay - direct into a Hauppauge PVR-150. Unless there are problems - then I put a DataVideo TBC into the chain.
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  3. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    High Quality VCR -> TBC -> quality DVD recorder

    Use XP or SP mode, split discs as needed, games may take more than 1-2 discs, deal with it, quality over compression!

    High quality VCR? JVC or Panasonic. See https://forum.videohelp.com/topic347374.html

    TBC? Get the AVT-8710, or DataVideo TBC-1000 if get good deal.

    Good DVD recorder? Ideally one that can "clean up" the video quality. This would be ideal to hunt down a Toshiba XS series machine, or the JVC 10/100/30/300/MV1/MV5 series machines.

    None of this is new in the store, none of it was ever crap sold in Best Buy or Walmart -- this is all higher end gear, some of it pro or semi-pro (prosumer).

    Personally, I'd use a JVC HR-S9800U or Panasonic AG-1980P VCR, followed by my AVT-8710, followed by a JVC DR-M10 or an ATI AIW AGP card. That's one of my "conversion-only" setups. It filters most noise. It will cost at least several hundred $$$ to get this.

    Outsourcing to a reliable service is another option, and it may come to a similar price, but with the added benefit of zero work! I do a lot of conversion work for other people, for this very reason.
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    Originally Posted by lordsmurf
    High Quality VCR -> TBC -> quality DVD recorder

    Use XP or SP mode, split discs as needed, games may take more than 1-2 discs, deal with it, quality over compression!
    OK. I already have an ADVC-110 for capture to PC (with an external TBC or good VCR with TBC built in). Again, I figured I'd capture, cut off the end, then write to my PC's DVD burner. Is this not as good as using an external DVD recorder?
    Originally Posted by lordsmurf
    High quality VCR? JVC or Panasonic. See https://forum.videohelp.com/topic347374.html

    TBC? Get the AVT-8710, or DataVideo TBC-1000 if get good deal.
    OK. Is it better to get the TBC-1000 and use it with what I have... or is it better to get a good VCR with TBC built in?[/quote]

    Originally Posted by lordsmurf
    Good DVD recorder? Ideally one that can "clean up" the video quality. This would be ideal to hunt down a Toshiba XS series machine, or the JVC 10/100/30/300/MV1/MV5 series machines.

    None of this is new in the store, none of it was ever crap sold in Best Buy or Walmart -- this is all higher end gear, some of it pro or semi-pro (prosumer).
    Do these have TBC built in?

    Originally Posted by lordsmurf
    Personally, I'd use a JVC HR-S9800U or Panasonic AG-1980P VCR, followed by my AVT-8710, followed by a JVC DR-M10 or an ATI AIW AGP card. That's one of my "conversion-only" setups. It filters most noise. It will cost at least several hundred $$$ to get this.
    So... would one of those VCRs followed by an AVT-8710 (or TBC-1000 which I saw in an older post that you prefer) followed by my ADVC110 work similar?

    Originally Posted by lordsmurf
    Outsourcing to a reliable service is another option, and it may come to a similar price, but with the added benefit of zero work! I do a lot of conversion work for other people, for this very reason.
    OK... how much per tape is the usual charge?
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  5. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    The VCR internal TBC is different than the external one. They function differently, perform different tasks. The internal one "cleans the image" while the external one "purifies the signal" (non-visual, in most cases).

    As far as what I charge for converting tapes, PM me (private message, top of the page) on that. It mostly depends on length, number of tapes, and video/audio condition.

    The ADVC-100/10 is a DV capture device. Regardless of the capture device, you need a clean signal in, at minimum (good VCR, good TBC). The DV device does ZERO cleaning, whereas several DVD recorders remove more noise past what the VCR/TBC did, so you're getting the best possible image, suitable for archiving valuable memories.

    The DVD recorder does nto have a TBC built in, though all of them have sync filters that perform to varying degrees. It really is not all that important, as the external TBC supplants any need of a DVD recorder synchronizer/TBC.

    You can use the Canopus DV box, but other methods tend to yield better results. The Canopus devices were made to expect clean image quality, not nasty VHS quality. Some of this depends on the condition of your tapes. Knowing what nighttime sports looks like, however, you're bound to have a ton of chroma noise (red/blue misty noise in the dark areas of the screen, and in certain colors like red and green).
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    OK... so what I'm understanding from you is to get a good VCR (with TBC built in), get an external TBC, and a good video recorder.

    But... here's where I'm missing things. Instead of a DVD recorder, can't I just simple capture to my PC, then edit/author and burn to PC DVD?

    So:

    JVC HR-S9800U or Panasonic AG-1980P VCR --> TBC-1000 --> ADVC-110 ---> PC (AVI)

    then edit and burn to PC's dvd. Will that work as well?
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  7. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Yes, that will work. Just understand the weakest link in the chain is the DV device. It won't filter as well as some DVD recorders will. but it most certainly will be fine if the signal is filtered enough by the VCR early on. You'll have to re-encode the DV to MPEG-2 anyway, before authoring to a new DVD. In that encoding step, you can often filter between source and output, with software filters. Just be aware some errors can ONLY be removed in hardware, not software.

    In short, you might be fine with that setup, yes. It's not bad, by any means.
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  8. Preservationist davideck's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by statman24
    OK... so what I'm understanding from you is to get a good VCR (with TBC built in), get an external TBC, and a good video recorder.

    But... here's where I'm missing things. Instead of a DVD recorder, can't I just simple capture to my PC, then edit/author and burn to PC DVD?

    So:

    JVC HR-S9800U or Panasonic AG-1980P VCR --> TBC-1000 --> ADVC-110 ---> PC (AVI)

    then edit and burn to PC's dvd. Will that work as well?
    If Copy Protection is not an issue, then I'd recommend a Philips 3575 HDD/DVD Recorder.

    Its internal TBC performance is noticeably superior to the TBC-1000 and rivals that of the JVC and Panasonic VCR internal TBCs. This means you can use any good VCR with or without TBC/DNR (S-VHS is strongly recommended). The original record machine is also a preferred choice.

    You'd also get the functionality of an HDD/DVD Recorder, with capture and encode qualities that are hard to beat.

    But if you prefer, you can always capture to the PC, using the Philips as the external TBC/Frame Synchronizer.
    Life is better when you focus on the signals instead of the noise.
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    Thanks.

    Again, I want to be able to put my own menu background on the DVD. I can do that easily with software. If it's possible with an external DVD recorder, then I'm all ears.

    Also (unless I'm not understanding yet), with many authoring software packages, I can tell it to use the best possible quality when writing out to DVD, while fitting the entire video on the dvd. Most football games run 40-55 minutes, as the camera was started and stopped between plays. I don't think that's possible with external DVD recorder.
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  10. Member edDV's Avatar
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    Whatever you do, keep the encoding 720x480i interlace to the DVD and keep encoding bit rate high if you want to preserve motion.

    What you probably don't want is blend deinterlace like this.

    And this was from a 1080i source.
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  11. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    The Philips is a nice DVD recorder, but ONLY if the source is clean image quality. It does not do any cleaning of its own. I'd also disagree about the Frame sync performance outdoing a full-frame external TBC. Just not the same.
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  12. Preservationist davideck's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by lordsmurf
    I'd also disagree about the Frame sync performance outdoing a full-frame external TBC. Just not the same.
    The Frame Synchronizer in the DVD Recorder is full-frame as well. Other than a difference in vertical blanking (MV removal), the two are functionally equivalent. For troublesome source tapes, it is possible that either Frame Synchronizer might outperform the other. YMMV.

    The big difference is in TBC performance. The Philips removes Horizontal jitter that the Datavideo fails to correct and instead embeds into the image.

    Why buy an external TBC when a DVD Recorder can provide better TBC performance?
    Life is better when you focus on the signals instead of the noise.
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  13. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Because anti-copy is an artificial video error, and real errors can also confuse equipment into thinking it is protected -- regardless of the frame synchronization. I see it all the time. I don't even bother capturing anything without an external TBC anymore, because it became a nuisance. The Philips 3575 was no exception to false MV detection.
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  14. Preservationist davideck's Avatar
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    If false MV detection is an issue, then I'd recommend the Philips 3575 as the external TBC/Frame Synchronizer and a Hauppauge PVR-250 as the capture device.
    Life is better when you focus on the signals instead of the noise.
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    Originally Posted by davideck
    If false MV detection is an issue, then I'd recommend the Philips 3575 as the external TBC/Frame Synchronizer and a Hauppauge PVR-250 as the capture device.
    Again, plan to record to PC, do some editing and write out to DVD. And, all of my tapes are non-commercial, so MV should not be an issue.

    I have a Panasonic AG-1980P VCR on the way... found one for $100 shipped.

    Are you saying that I can buy a "Philips 3575" and run video right though it, using it exactly as I would a TBC-1000? Ie... between the Panasonic AG-1980P VCR and the ADVC-110? What advantage would I get by replacing the ADVC-110 with a PVR-250?
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  16. You know, I'd love to hear a discussion on this whole issue of DVD recorders and frame synchronization vs external TBCs between lordsmurf and davideck, as I've heard this topic raised many times on here.
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    Yup... I'll get the popcorn.

    Also, I'd like to see a "Stuff for sale" forum here as well. I'm sure there are folks looking to buy and sell stuff.
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  18. Preservationist davideck's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by statman24
    Are you saying that I can buy a "Philips 3575" and run video right though it, using it exactly as I would a TBC-1000? Ie... between the Panasonic AG-1980P VCR and the ADVC-110?
    Yes, except for MV removal (and false MV prevention).

    You might also consider a Toshiba HDD/DVD Recorder. They have a set of proc amp adjustments (Brightness, Contrast, Saturation, Hue) that can be used during passthrough, and they also have very sophisticated editing and authoring capabilities should you ever want to edit/author/burn directly on the DVD Recorder. Their encode quality is second to none.

    Their TBC performance is not as good as the Philips, but since the AG-1980 has an internal TBC, this need not be a top priority.

    Originally Posted by statman24
    What advantage would I get by replacing the ADVC-110 with a PVR-250?
    I am partial to real time encoding.
    Does the ADVC-110 ignore MV? There is always the possibility of false MV detection when using a DVD Recorder.

    Originally Posted by robjv1
    I'd love to hear a discussion on this whole issue of DVD recorders and frame synchronization vs external TBCs between lordsmurf and davideck
    Ask a question. If lordsmurf replies, then I will too.
    Life is better when you focus on the signals instead of the noise.
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    Originally Posted by davideck
    I am partial to real time encoding.
    Does the ADVC-110 ignore MV? There is always the possibility of false MV detection when using a DVD Recorder.
    Yes, if you hold the input/select button on the advc-110 for something like 10 or so seconds, it will defeat macrovision.
    I've connected the 110 to a regular dvd player and played a commercial movie. On the capture program it looked very red. After holding the button for a bit, it cleared up perfectly.

    What do you mean by "real time encoding"?
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  20. Preservationist davideck's Avatar
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    real time encoding => capturing and encoding via hardware directly to an mpeg file, thereby eliminating the time required to encode in software after capturing. This can be a real time saver, but it tends to complicate the editing process.

    You may find that the AG-1980 and the ADVC-110 work fine without an external TBC/Frame Synchronizer. I needed frame synchronization to maintain A/V Sync with my PVR-250, but others here have claimed that they didn't. YMMV.
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  21. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    There are basically three types of "timebase correctors".

    1. The "image fixer-upper". It clean up grain. Removes most chroma noise. It often removes wiggles from videos, but not always. Anti-copy is not removed. Signal errors are a mix of removed and not removed. A signal error is not necessarily something that is visual. Example: JVC S-VHS VCR TBC, Panasonic S-VHS VCR TBC, built into the VCR

    2. The "wiggle remover, synchronizer". It syncs the frame, and it very often removes the tearing and wiggling of the image, even in severe cases. It usually does nothing for grain or chroma, so you still have a lot of on-screen mess in your video quality. It does not remove anti-copy, and it leaves a number of signal errors intact. Example: many higher-quality DVD recorders, built into the recorder

    3. The "signal fixer". It removes signal flaws, such as anti-copy, allowing uninterrupted digital capture by a device. It does nothing for the image quality in most cases, all of your wiggles, grain and chroma noise are still there. Example: DataVideo TBC, AVT TBC, the external boxes

    4. The "not-really-a-TBC fixer". These are your "clarifier" type devices, marketed at removing anti-copy. To call them a TBC is a real stretch, as they are essentially a really crappy "signal fixer" that fails somewhere from 25-50% of the time.

    What technically constitutes the "TBC" isn't really as important as what the TBC is being advertised for. Admittedly, most of these TBCs are embedded with other objects, and it's the "unit as a whole" that we're after, as we discuss video restoration and conversion.

    What you want to do determines which one -- or more -- of the devices is in your chain. Personally, I want them all. If I had to pick just one, I'd always go for the S-VHS VCR TBC, the "image fixer-upper", as it is of the most use to most people. Of course, it depends entirely on what you're trying to do.
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  22. Preservationist davideck's Avatar
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    Given the inclusion of your TBC type 2. ("wiggle remover, synchronizer" built into DVD Recorder), I think we basically agree. Your TBC type 1. ("image fixer-upper") can also exist in a DVD Recorder. The JVC is one example.

    IMO, it is more consistent to specify the video processing functions associated with "TBC" devices and then identify where these functions exist along a given signal path.

    Some specific functions are;

    1) Timebase Correction ("TBC performance") => attempted removal of timing errors (wiggle removing).

    2) Noise Reduction => filtering techniques utilized to reduce noise (image fixer upping).

    3) Frame Synchronization => synchronizing the video to a continuous output reference (synchronizer).

    4) MV Removal => blanking out the vertical interval (signal fixing).

    The various TBC devices simply provide different combinations and performance levels of these functions. Generally speaking;

    VCR internal TBCs provide 1 and 2, but not 3 or 4.
    External TBCs (DataVideo, AVT, FOR.A) provide 1, 3 and 4, but not 2.
    DVD Recorders provide 1, 2, and 3, but not 4.

    Clarifier devices provide 4, but not 1, 2 or 3.

    With the exception of the Clarifier, all of the above devices digitize video. I would therefore not classify a Clarifier as a TBC, since it does not digitize video; "not-really-a-TBC fixer" suits me fine.

    A critical point is that any device that digitizes video will do so at some level of TBC performance. It will make the sample timing better, equal, worse, or somewhere along the spectrum. As examples;

    Excellent TBC Performance => Philips DVD Recorder / VCR internal TBCs
    Good TBC Performance => Toshiba DVD Recorder / FOR.A external TBC
    Fair TBC Performance => Typical DVD Recorder / DataVideo, AVT external TBCs
    Poor TBC Performance => JVC DVD Recorder

    Every TBC device will also embed into the image the timing errors that it fails to correct. Other TBC devices further down the signal path will not be able to see or correct these embedded errors. It is therefore advantageous for the TBC device with the best TBC performance to be first in the signal path. As examples;

    VCR with TBC/DNR -> DataVideo TBC => excellent TBC performance / Frame Sync / MV Removal.
    VCR with TBC/DNR -> Typical DVD Recorder => excellent TBC performance / Frame Sync / no MV Removal.
    VCR with TBC/DNR -> Philips DVD Recorder => excellent TBC performance / Frame Sync / no MV Removal.

    VCR without TBC/DNR -> DataVideo TBC => fair TBC performance / Frame Sync / MV Removal.
    VCR without TBC/DNR -> Typical DVD Recorder => fair TBC performance / Frame Sync / no MV Removal.
    VCR without TBC/DNR -> Philips DVD Recorder => excellent TBC performance / Frame Sync / no MV Removal.

    Once you determine the functions and performance you want, you can then construct your signal path accordingly.
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    Is the PVR-250 the best way to go for capturing to MPEG... or can another Hauppauge card do the same (like the HVR-1800)? With the latter, I can use it for other things as well.

    I should note, I'm using Vista Ultimate. Will the PVR-250 work with that?

    Thanks much!
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    I don't like the Hauppauge cards to be honest, but it's one of the only current new-in-store choices that we have. The Hauppauge cards are very soft, especially at 352x480 resolution. The ATI All In Wonder AGP cards are better, but you'd need an AGP slot system, and those are only going to be found used. Of course, Hauppauge is starting to become rare too.

    If I could ever get some saved-up "extra" capital (everybody laugh now, as if anybody can save in this economy right now), I'd opt for a Matrox card. Those are stellar quality DV and MPEG-2 capture, but you'll pay for it. The card is PCI, and come with a break-out box.
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    Can you tell me exactly what model Matrox card you're talking about? I'd like to check it out.
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  26. Member vhelp's Avatar
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    Evening everyone.

    If the OP could provide some actual (captured or recorded) samples, then a more direct set of answers could be given to solve most if not all problems:

    1) VCR-to-CaptureCard-to-AVI source
    2) VCR-to-DVDRecorder-to-MPEG2 source

    This would help us review what the source (vhs tape, vcr, capture equip, and anything else in the chain) may potentially entail, such as:

    1. image curling
    2. noise patterns
    3. ghosting or rainbows
    4. color shifting/levels/etc.
    5 and other factors of artifacts.

    otherwise, we would be providing speculations and theories, etc.

    Give us details of your vhs tapes:

    1. briefly explain the problem(s) of your current: vhs-to-FinalDestination
    2. origin of source -- dv; home video; then transfered/recorded to vhs tape
    3. equipment -- vcr; its age; output connections used: Composite vs. S-Video
    4. what was used in the transfer videos to vhs tapes you mentioned -- Composite or S-video
    5. age of these vhs tapes
    6. how and where was these tapes stored
    7. are the original source(s) still available

    These were just some of the things that came to mind while reading this discussion.

    Even if you haven't yet started in this endeavor, providing some examples of your current situation might help us help you closer to your goal.

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    I can work on a sample AVI under my current setup (Sony SLV-D380P VCR --> ADVC110 --> PC). I'm expecting the UPS driver to drop off my new (used) Panasonic AG-1980P VCR sometime tomorrow.

    My original post was not necessarily addressing a problem I was having (even though I have one). I just wanted to figure out the best setup for the tons of tapes I'm going to be converting. These are VHS tapes with high school football games on them. The original source was probably mini-dv or Hi8 converted to VHS (which is what's I'm left with).

    Regarding your questions....

    1. briefly explain the problem(s) of your current: vhs-to-FinalDestination

    With the setup I have, I notice some lines that are shifted. So, instead if seeing this:

    - - - - - - - - -
    - - - - - - - - -
    - - - - - - - - -
    - - - - - - - - -

    I've got this where I see motion ( a slight shift in lines ):

    - - - - - - - - -
    >- - - - - - - - -
    - - - - - - - - -
    >- - - - - - - - -

    2. origin of source -- dv; home video; then transfered/recorded to vhs tape

    Boxes of VHS tapes from the school. Again, these were probably MiniDV or Hi8 originally converted to VHS

    3. equipment -- vcr; its age; output connections used: Composite vs. S-Video

    VCR Sony SLV-D380P connected via composite to advc110. ADVC110 connected to PC via firewire.

    4. what was used in the transfer videos to vhs tapes you mentioned -- Composite or S-video

    Composite

    5. age of these vhs tapes

    some are as old as 1997 (like the one I'm playing with now).

    6. how and where was these tapes stored

    Most were in boxes in a storage area in the school (a gated storage area).

    7. are the original source(s) still available


    No... although I do have a few mini-dv tapes and Hi8 tapes in the mix. Even have some 8mm reels


    Again... give me a bit and I'll throw up a short AVI of the current tape.
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    I put 1 avi and some frames here:

    http://www.novifootball.org/vhelp/
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  29. Member vhelp's Avatar
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    I can't get the 48mb over dial-up, but I'm sure most others members here on DSL or Cable, can, and can assist with *that* sample for you.

    As far as the pics you demos (thanks) I have to admit that they do look very good. And I was going to suggest against the ADVC-110 and go with an analog pci card instead. But, do keep it in the chain because it is doing excellent. Actually, I've never seen an home-video-made source -to- vhs tape and then captured with a dv, example. So, my theory (about the negativeness) can be laid to rest

    The one great thing about the ADVC-100/110/55/etc is that they do not exhibit or induce any such line noise in the finished capture. That was one of the main reasons I gave it the title of the Holy Grail, way back when..and still deserves the title, hehe. It is just pure clean video. Anyway. I'm happy for you.

    The only thing I don't like the ADVC 's are for when the source is a commercial vhs tape. The video source is transfered to tape in a completely different manor (sorry, I don't know the specifics--maybe someone else does and can explain it/the difference between analog cabletv recordings vs. commercial movies on tape) and is not in sync with picture detail/quality--looks all chisel and what-not. But in your case, it is (or seem to be) perfectly agreeable, there.

    At the moment, and briefly looking at a couple of your jpeg's, I can see only one major problem, if you would call it such, (I know a few members feel it is) and that is the "halo" around the edges of certain objects. This is another part/aspect of the color errors I mentioned earlier. It is sometimes believed to be on account of one of more equipment related phenomina--aka, sharpeness setting. The greater the "sharpness" setting the more pronouced is the halo effect. And this could have been recorded to some of those tapes and nothing (if barely applicable) can remove it completely. This will undoubtly require an exerternal remedy though another tool, avisynth--and its arson of plugin filters--and would prob require a separate -editing- discussion.

    Personally, I would prob leave the "halo" alone and test various encoding to mpeg scenarios. The halo is an unfortunate product of most vhs videos. But the main thing to concirn yourself with is the bitrate setup.

    When it comes to vhs-to-dvd, you always want to use what leads to the highest obtainable quality possible. I always recommend CBR and min of 9000MBit/s for this configuration. But because there are many mpeg encoders, they all have their strengths and weaknesses. Take for instance, TMPGenc. It supports VBR and CBR. So, you have choices there. HCenc is another popular choice. But, it does not support CBR. It offers VBR and CQ. But, (at least in my experiments) you can "fake" a CBR by using the following--min:9000 and max:9000 and get a CBR-like encode. I was very pleased with this setup in HC..I was using v0.19 in those successfull tests. Choice/flavor varies from person to person. So, experimentation is always highly recommended.

    The thing (at least with me) about bitrate and CBR and so on is that in most cases, later on down the ladder of time, and as equipment and technology progresses, ie, our viewing devices, our needs change with this. I am now seeing where people are wanting to watch their videos (home and commercial) on their newer, bigger screens. And those that encoded 352x480 (because that was what was beleived to be best for vhs) will prob suffer the most because these do not get adaquately upscaled to the HD specs of 1280/1920 since equipment designed are based around the dvd specs of 720x480, hence the upscale factor 720->1280/1920. That is my personal opinion/observation of this trend thus far. I could be wrong about the 352 vs. 720 aspects, but then again, [s:d9aacec4a6]352[/s:d9aacec4a6] vs. 720 is IMHO a greater distance to travel to get to upscaled HD specs of 1280 or 1920, from an upscale/sampling point of view. So, I would highly recommend going straight to DVD 720x480 pixels to avoid the future worries.

    If you go in the direction of software encoding, then you have options..lots of them. But, be aware that with this choice comes a price--time. If you have many tapes to transfer, you have some thinking to do because time is not something that everyone has so much of. And, there is a great (or can be in most cases) a learning curve to all this software editing and encoding. Many peopel just give up and run to a dvd recorder and be done with it. I've seen a few ask zillions of quations here, and only later, turn (quietly) to a dvd recorder, and never to be seen or heard from, again. That's the way it goes around here and everywhere else.

    Filteirng or noise reduction (cleanin) vhs sources can be a very tricky prospect. As I mentioned earlier, your Hi8->vhs videos seem to have come out pretty well. No tipicle "vhs" noise can be seen in those examples. So, filtering may not be necessary. I would review (below) and see how far you get in terms of satisfaction. If you think you can go further, then experiment with light filter applications. There are all kinds of filter functions. I would recommend reading up on such facts at a later time when you feel it might be necessary. Your taste will undoubtly be different than mine, and so, what you see in terms of quality or fault may be seen as something else or not at all.

    My recommendations are:

    1. Encode to MPEG-2 DVD 720x480 specs
    2. go with CBR 9000MBits
    3. image enhancements -- consider not apply filtering/noise reduction for time being
    4. author to DVD
    5. review in your dvd player(s) for successfull playback

    and, if all goes well in step 5, then consider

    6. review in a dvd player capabile with UpScale for HD (1280/1920) viewing

    Well, like I said, I only took a quick glance at some of pics you posted. Sorry for the lengthy response.

    -vhelp 4936
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  30. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Thanks Vhelp.

    Notice the first picture I have uploaded... see player with uniform #24? That's what I'm talking about earlier.

    So... if I were to get a capture card (to do MPEG encoding), which would you recommend? Note that I'm running on Vista.
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