Originally Posted by RiG
Well, I dont have answer for you, and Im probably as curious as you are...
but
I still wouldn't point to media, since same brand/age discs burnt as games do work with no problems on your game-toy-devices.
Discs are just storage, they don't turn bad in only one type of format of burning obviously, IMHO to blame media it would take all kind of your discs (regardless of format they were burnt to) to show erratic behaviour and errors.
Maybe the problem was your authoring/burning software used back then, maybe the burner(s) itself, maybe your players heat up too much while playing, or maybe you have too much moisture in the air in your room that affects your players, or maybe its another of other hundreds possible explanations... but I'd say media itself is least likely to blame in this case, assuming you really have no problem with any of your game discs burnt on the same media.
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Originally Posted by Wile_E
And we'll always have spirited debates here like "What's the best and worst media out there" -
Originally Posted by Capmaster
yup
People with small penises always tried to show off something else, its been like this since the dawn of times (or since God created Adam - just choose whatever you believe in hehe) -
It's the media. The Ritek's are just bad. Replace what you can now and don't buy any more. Your games that still play now may very well go bad down the road. Search this forum for Ritek horror stories. They are well documented.
This forum has been very helpful to me over the years, but I have learned to be very careful not to take any post at face value. A thread can get really confusing. While everyone believes they know what they are talking about they sometimes offer wildly different diagnosis. Some complete opposites. At times it seem the blind are leading the deaf dumb and blind. As in this case - It's the media. No it's the hardware. No your just an idiot. No you don't know what you are talking about. Then there are the avatar's..............
For my part I keep my equipment updated - four new Pioneer DVD-A111D's and two new Sony player with HDMI. Buy only name brand equipment - Pioneer burners and Sony players. By only the best media - 95% of the time TY, no value line. Buy only from reputable suppliers - TY from rima, no ebay. Keep my firmware current. As a result, I have no coasters and my discs play in all players. -
For the life of me, I could never figure out why people opt to save a few cents per media, only to risk losing their data.
I use DVD-Rs to archive video of my son and family members. Do you think I would risk losing video of my parents and family members just to save a few bucks (rhetorical question)?
If it ain't MAM-A for audio or T-Y for video, it ain't going into any of my burners.
Roberta -
I was talking to a guy a couple of months ago about Ritek. He believed it was better media because of the richer purple color on the bottom. I have had some miserable experiences in the past with Ritek and will never use it again. But this guys comments made me realize how strange people can be in their choices. Somewhere in the two brain cells that he houses in his skull, he cooked up his "richer color" rationale. Nothing would change his mind.
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I will never buy Ritek either. I got burnt once and have a long memory.
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RiG - I can't see where you told us what you burned these with. You should be aware that Nero and DVD Shrink do NOT put 32k gaps between BUPs and IFOs in what they burn/author, so if you use those programs, you may have problems down the road. Take a look at
http://www.digital-digest.com/~blutach/pgcedit_guide/burning_with_pgcedit/burning_with...pgcedit_v2.htm
and scroll to the bottom and read for an explanation as to why with certain burning programs, you may not be able to play your discs in the future.
One of my friends is just adamant that only idiots use any DVD media except "whatever is on sale". I am just waiting for the day when he tells he something similar to your story, that nothing he has burned on those cheap no-name DVDs will work anymore. -
Originally Posted by jman98
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Apart from the brand of media, what is THE most reliable type of DVD to use when copying movies? -R, -RW, +R, +RW? for the most consistent issue-free playback and compatibility with most standalone players?
I use +R and have zero problems. On the other hand my sister uses +RW and has a lot of bad copies. This is on the SAME PC that I just built for her which has 2 NEC ND-3550A burners in the box. Did I just answer my own question? LOL
thnx, Bo Bo Bolinski -
Everything else has been typical Ritek junk, including G01, G02,
Also since I still have a stack of Ritek GO2 I am still burning them, and they appear to be burning as well as new.
These are 2-3years old, maybe more, I bought them not long after I started up here (Date at left) or when they first came out.
I never really tried anything past GO3, I don't have a clue why, but I have a cake box here that I labeled Ritek G03, but I cannot find any G03 disks here??
I whole heartedly blame Sony for this lmao If my Playstation 2 would have read other dvdr I wouldn't have been buying Ritek but all the Sony fanboys said Ritek was the best because the lasers are picky in the PS2, which was true, I had a hell of a time until I used Riteks, my PS2 still reads nothing but Ritek, but for how long.
If PS2 has such a problem ITSELF as to only be able to read one brand of disk well, then it is JUNK itself!!
It should read any GOOD disk as well as a PC drive or settop player, so if it does not then the PS2 is junk, and yes that has been my opion of them anyway, thanks for verifing it
So you got problem disks that only works in a device that ALSO has problems and only reads one brand of disks!
Hey what do you know?? You just proved that 2 WRONGS do make a right! -
-Rs have better compatibility than +Rs (try playing a +R in a Toshiba player......). I have read that +Rs are more reliable within certain brands. In other words a Brand XXXX +R is theoretically better that a Brand XXXX -R. I'm not sure how that's possible, since the only difference between the two types of discs is the identifier which tells the burner/player whether the disc is one format or the other.
According to the claims of the DVD Alliance, using a DVD+R/+RW recorder will let you do the following:
1. Instantly eject without having to wait for finalized formatting.
2. Ability to record one DVD disc partially on PC and partially on television.
3. Background formatting: while the disc is being formatted, you can simultaneously record on already-formatted portions of the same disc.
4. Enhanced ability to edit filenames, movie and song titles, and playlists.
5. 100% compatibility with all other DVD players, while still enjoying these extra recording features.
Since items 1-4 are meaningless to me and 5 is BS, IMHO, this format is simply a money grabbing exercise by folks who didn't want to pay DVD-R license fees.
Pick a good brand, and then decide. If your machine was made in the last few years (and is not made by Toshiba), it will likely play -Rs and +Rs. If your machine is a few years old, you will likely have more problems.
Roberta -
About a year ago someone posted a message on this site about having corrected DVDs which exhibited this freeze type behavior immediately burning by changing a parameter on the disk image with infoedit.
They claimed that the behavior was a function of having compressed the image to fit with DVDshrink and as a result, the video was being read too quickly by their DVDplayer(s).
Does anyone rember further details about this post? -
Originally Posted by SCDVD
It's actually a myth that once held some degree of truth! Back in the 1990s, in the realm of CD-R, when all that new junk media was coming out, darker colored blue or even green dyes tend to work better in CD-Audio players than the lighter dyes. It was true in the PS1 as well, as many older CD-ROMs. Eventually AZO dyes were light too, and worked just as well as the older darker versions. That was only a couple of years, CD-R only, and mostly affected older readers.
It never existed for DVD media. It no longer exists for CD media.
Like you said, people that hold onto many of these myths only have about two brain cells to rub together, and it's a wonder they have survived so long.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
Originally Posted by oldandinthe way
Perhaps someone could dig it up?
Anyways as for DVD Video burning I've been using DVD Decrypter since day 1 ... now I use the "follow up" program ImgBurn.
No better way to burn a DVD Video disc.
- John "FulciLives" Coleman"The eyes are the first thing that you have to destroy ... because they have seen too many bad things" - Lucio Fulci
EXPLORE THE FILMS OF LUCIO FULCI - THE MAESTRO OF GORE
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Haven't seen a reply to my question below?
Apart from the brand of media, what is THE most reliable type of DVD to use when copying movies? -R, -RW, +R, +RW? for the most consistent issue-free playback and compatibility with most standalone players?
I use +R and have zero problems. On the other hand my sister uses +RW and has a lot of bad copies. This is on the SAME PC that I just built for her which has 2 NEC ND-3550A burners in the box. Did I just answer my own question? LOL
thnx, Bo Bo Bolinski
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Does your sister have the same drives as you do. If so you answered your question. If not, when she finds media which works consistantly she will have hewr answer.
Any answers you get on this forum will be colored by the equipment in the experience of the poster. Long time owners of Japanese DVDwriters will tell you DVD-R, TY or MCC. Those who have had problems with aged Japanese DVDplayers will tell you the same.
Owners of LG DVDwriters will tell you they can burn anything, but they set booktype on DVD+R to increase compatibility with the aged Japanese DVDplayers.
There have been enough heated debates on this forum to tell you there are many more answers and opinions based on experience, knowledge, prejudice and happenstance. The media that do what you want to do, on the equipment you want to do it are good media. If it don't work, it don't work. -
(just an OT question)
Originally Posted by jdeh
what is that/it about?
I see it again and again here, and obviously am either too old or too young to get ityet Im still curious
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Just my 2 cents. I have 3 DVD jukebox players that hold 300 discs each and play both sides of a double-sided disc. Therefore, I have backed up all my movies onto double-sided Ritek DVD-R media. I started doing this in 2001, and to date I must've burned at least 1,000 discs, and maybe have 5 coasters altogether. All my discs play perfectly in my Sony players...I've only used Ritek double-sided DVD-Rs (G02-G04) and so far (6yrs later) every good burn still works perfectly in my players. I don't know if I'm lucky or just got lucky with the batches I burned, but the Ritek double-sided DVD-Rs always worked for me. I don't think Ritek ever released their G05s on the double-sided batches, so maybe I lucked out!
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