This is most definitely a 720p television. Any 1080i/p signal will be downscaled to 720p.
The built-in ATSC tuner pulls HD signals right from the airwaves, and its QAM tuner is fully compatible with unscrambled HDTV cable reception. A standard analog NTSC tuner receives standard-definition (SD) programming. The screen delivers a true 1366 x 768-pixel HDTV resolution, and it also features a wide 176-degree viewing angle and 450 cd/m2 (candela per square meter) brightness rating--perfect for viewing colorful details in even direct sunlight.
You'll enjoy enveloping audio from the set's built-in 20-watt bottom-mounted stereo speakers (10 watts per channel), which can also produce virtual Dolby surround sound. It provides the following connection options:
Composite AV (RCA): 3 in
S-Video: 1 in
Component Video: 2 in
HDMI: 2 in
RF: 1 in
Total analog audio in: 4
Analog audio out: 1
Digital optical: 1 out
Now don't get me wrong, a TV at 720p is very nice looking and like I mentioned before, Sharp adds a bunch of other features to make this even better. If going for a TV, you don't really need 1080p until you get to the 42"-45" range to really see the difference (with a true 1080 signal).
However, if you're looking for something to connect to a pc, I'd look for something else. With no VGA port, you'd have to do something with DVI->HDMI and I'm not sure how good that works. Might be some overscan involved. Otherwise, you'd be using the composite or s-video in. Not what I'd recommend.
From personal experience, though I LOVE my LCD TV, I would not recommend it for someone with either OTA or cable SD. LCDs (and plasmas are worse) do not handle the noise of these signals very well. Since I have DISHnet I've decided to make a trade in for the clarity, but slightly pixilated (some much better than others, depends on what dish gets for a signal) viewing of SD channels. I found most more than acceptable.
Now, I hook up my Gamecube on composite. Not bad, just a little washed out. Find (eventually) the digital component cable for the GC, night and day difference between 480i and the 480p the component cable enables. I'm playing Zelda and Metroid again just to enjoy everything I missed seeing before. Beside, now I know where all the secrets are... That's for 480p vs. 480i...
We've also got an XBOX360 hooked up via VGA. From a DVD standpoint, we essentially got an upscaling DVD player. The movies are as clear and as colorful as can be. Night and day difference to finally see DVDs the way they were meant to be seen. You've got 480p plus true widescreen. Good stuff. I've got the 360 set to 720p so its doing the upscaling for the DVD and not the TV.
Now, as for games in true 720p from the XBOX, the TV is truly starting to sing. Unfriggin believable. NHL 2k7 is wonderful to watch and play. We just picked up Ghost Recon, wicked fun but tough, and the graphics are unreal.
Now notice, so far I haven't even touched the 1080p side of the TV yet. We don't have HD-DVD or Blu-ray (though I'm leaning toward HD-DVD since an add-on drive for the 360 should be out next month at only $200, but not enough selection to make a move yet...) so nothing to compare there. That where the PC comes in. Previously, I bought a manual vga switch box for our 19" LCD monitor to jump between the pc and the 360. Hey, cheap HD for the 360. Anyway, now I've got the switch between the 360 and the pc to share the VGA port. A cheap $50 cordless keyboard and mouse later I'm using the PC with a 1920x1200 (1920x1080 looked off for some reason) desktop and its as clear as can be. I set it to 720p and really lost quite allot of desktop. Much much more than I was willing to give up.
Next thing I want to do is download some of those 1080 high-def trailers to see what that looks like on the TV.
Anyway, to sum things up, my opinion is:
- LCD/Plasma is not so good to horrible for SD TV depending on the signal and the TV's capabilities.
- 720p is great for HD TV, game consoles, upscaled DVD players.
- 720p is more than enough needed resolution on TV's up to 37-42"
- 1080p resolution starts to be noticeable (versus 720p) start at 40"-42".
- 1080p is needed for acceptable desktop space for PC usage.
- A VGA/computer port on the TV/monitor is needed for PC connection. (Maybe not from a technical standpoint but for ease of use and support, it is). You maybe able to get by with a VGA/Component adapter with some advanced tweaking.
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OK, only two years of waiting and I finally bought a Full HD TV last December which connects fine to my MacMini through DVI. It is Samsung 40F86. I bought it for around 1500$. But there are two issues.
First OSX displays progressive mode only when in safe mode or when boots from install disk, or in terminal mode. When booted normally it shows only 1920x1080i as maximum resolution. Probably it is better for the video card. Besides it is no way noticeable except when hovering mouse over playing video - the odd and even lines can be spotted on pointer.
The second is playback of 720p HD content (MacMini 1.66 CoreDuo can't do 1080p H.264). Small jumping is noticeable especially on movies subtitles at the end. It looks like software player is adding frames to match the refresh rate. There is smaller jumping and larger. The larger one becomes stronger when 100Mhz Motion Plus is turned on and small jitter disappears. But it is also present when Motion Plus is off. The small jumping differs when computers video is set to NTSC (60Hz) and PAL (50Hz). In PAL mode it is quicker. The bigger jumping stays the same in both modes.
The videos usually are 23.976fps, H.264. I thought the player plays video at faster - 25 fps to match the refresh rate when in PAL mode and plays faster and duplicate every 4th frame (23.976->24+(24/4)=30) in NTSC mode. But it looks like it is not increasing playback speed but is constantly nonlinearly adding frames here and there. The picture stays the same in all players - VLC, MPlayer OSX, MPlayer OSX2, Miro.Cann't tell it's possible don't tell anything.