It's hard to give you any credibility when you say things like this.Originally Posted by deadrats
Film has resolution? And you even took it further to tell us what that resolution "typically" is.
You are just proving that you are making this up as you go.
Also, "high resolution" and "high definition" are two completely different things.
One can be quantified and the other is completely subjective.
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I'll add some real life experience from a simple "amateur"
- If have CD-R's from some 6-8 years now - mostly music and photos - all work still ok - I used mostly "good" brands- some of those are no longer good brands - I always burned at low speed (in the earlier days that was automatically the case)
- I started burning DVD-R in 2001 - mostly used Maxell at that time - later on some TDK "scratch free" - burning was done both on a stand alone Panasonic (DMR E20) and then computer (Pioneer AO3)
for less critical items I even have used some Princo (burned on a Nec 2500)
all the time I burned at low speeds (some may disagree on the "low" speed value but that is not the point) -
all my DVD-R still work to day considering the "player" is still in good condition - my old DMR E20 started having problems with recorded DVD-R - I replaced it by a Pioneer - problem solved
- I use some CD-R in my car for music - mp3 - this is a horfifying environment - heat and cold
most of those already last for > 3-4 years and still play well
- about magnetic tapes : years ago I made family movies in sVHS quality and edited those tapes and recorded on high quality sVHS and or VHS tapes (Fuji and Sony) - fortunately in 2001 I transferred those tapes on DVD (using de Panasonic DMR E20) because the tapes started showing high error rates, probably due to degradation in the coating - some of the hihg quality (so called pro-) tapes were even unplayable -
funny thing is that standard quality VHS tapes, even much older - did NOT show these problems -
anyway: even if tapes last longer - for film and music is difficult to make copies on a new tape because visible/audible quality loss during the transfer
so for sensitive "memories": I have copies on 2 DVD-R of different brand + a copy on an external HD which is only used for that purpose -
Originally Posted by adamOriginally Posted by slacker
In fact, I wanted to go a bit more big picture, and suggest that people stay away from any person, site or company that publishes such nonsense.
There are a few assertions here that probably should still be addressed, quite a few people are still confused by myths all over the place. So here goes...
What exactly is archiving supposed to be?
This is a fun statement that is used by many people, but nobody really seems to know what it means. So everybody picks their own definition, and that's quite fine.
- Is archiving where you write something once on a disc, or record to a tape, and never again access it? Do you just want to feel good that it's there "just in case"? Because of settling (tape) and natural degradation (both), this really does not work. Just ask George Lucas about his archiving of Star Wars films, where they sat unused for a decade or two before it was discovered how badly they fell apart simply sitting on a shelf. I forget which production house restored those films, but I'm sure they made a nice bankroll from that job.
- Is archiving where you write the source footage, so you can always go back to re-edit or re-create new projects? If so, that means you'll be using it, and that has both benefits and drawbacks. The benefit being you interrupt settling and inspect it regularly. The drawback, if it's tape, meaning you subject it to death by player.
In all honesty, the film reel (in a film reel to DV to DVD conversation) could very well be the master that is archived. If you're smart, you'll multiple archive, using DV, the film and DVD all as a storage method, just in case.
DV is a NOT necessarily a better archival method.
This myth is two-fold.
PART1 - The best way to store video, if you consider archiving a process where you keep edit-ready sources, is an uncompressed format. Even my knowledge of uncompressed formats stops with consumer options, for more professional options, I defer you to the advice of BJ_M on this site. But an uncompressed AVI 4:2:2 (or even a 4:4:4 compression) stored on a hard drive would be a better solution, in terms of the video quality alone. Of course, that introduces hard drive lifespans, another conversation.
So the next best (not the best!) option is slight compression, and DV is the popular choice these days. For some things, like film, and content originally shot on DV, it's great. For others, like VHS, not so great, there are colorspace compression concerns.
PART2- Do not forget that DV is a tape. A magnetic video tape, very thin and partially open to the elements. It really has no more or less lifetime than a VHS tape. While the data is digital and cannot degrade, it can be lost when bad spots develop on the tape. Maybe even entirely lost. I have already seen pre-mature cases on older DV tapes, and we get posts on VH about it from time to time, tapes that prematurely died. This is a peek at what is to come in another decade.
Now DVD is just a disc. You can store anything you want on it, including video and structure that adheres to the DVD-Video format, that plays in DVD-Video players. What you put on the disc depends on the settings of the content. A high bitrate MPEG-2 video, using a good encoder, can look equally as decent as a DV tape. You buy them in the stores all the time (commercially released movies). If your DVD is inferior, visually, to the DV tape, you merely did something wrong. DV is more about editing abilities than quality.
DV and DVD-Video are high resolution, considered in context.
This is all a matter of perspective. In the realm of standard definition (SDTV) source, it certainly is high resolution, about as high as you can possibly go and still take notice. The maximum of both formats (in use) is 720x480.
Now if you compare it to HDTV or a computer monitor, sure, it's not a high resolution. But it's also being compared to something outside of it's own environment.
With all the user complaints about DVDs going bad, isn't there some truth to DVDs not lasting very long?
No.
This comment sums up why:
Originally Posted by slacker
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1920x1080
silver dye
my own personal experience....
maybe i was unlucky
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My suggestion on film transfer is to get a DV tape done, and then immediately go and make 1-hour (XP mode) DVD copies on a good DVD recorder. Try to edit your fancy compilation sooner rather than later, within a year. Do not wait 10 years to grab the DV tape and then make your special masterpiece on DVD.
For VHS, anything up to 3 hours, depending on the hardware and filtering, should be fine put onto DVD. VHS has a lot of errors in it that should be removed before it gets compressed, and right now DVD recorders and software correction (from an uncompressed AVI capture, or even an MPEG capture) tend to do this better than a DV tape. Add VHS chroma noise and NTSC DV colorspace compression, and your video color quality goes straight to garbage. It's fairly difficult to undo the color damage of VHS chroma noise compounded with DV colorspace compression. Only do VHS to DV on high quality sources that have no hints of chroma noise (which can happen, if the VCR and/or TBC in use filters it out).
But to some degree, it's still a matter of preference, and has more to do with the sources (the content itself), and the settings of the video formats, than the medium it's stored on. Those are just my preferences, with some reasonings as to why I give them. It would be foolhardy to present it as immutable facts or a "dirty little secret".
excuse any typos, probably a few in thereWant my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
Originally Posted by slacker
For all other DVDs, like movies recorder from HBO and stuff like that, I just use TY and keep it in its black case. Hopefully they last, but if not, I'm not really going to feel like I lost anything of real value. -
Quote:
1920x1080
I don't recall the exact numbers for film resolutions (digital equivalents, of course), but I'm pretty sure 16mm film is nowhere near this. Not even close. Maybe 35mm. And then consumer DV (DV25, assumed NTSC DV 4:2:0 being located in North America) is 720x480, period.
* DVDs have roughly 500 lines (or TV lines, or lines per picture height).
* High definition television has 1,080 lines.
* 35mm movie film is scanned for release on DVD at 1080 or 2000 lines as of 2005.
* 35mm optical camera negative motion picture film can resolve up to 6,000 lines.
* 35mm projection positive motion picture film has about 2,000 lines which results from the analogue printing from the camera negative of an interpositive, and possibly an internegative, then a projection positive.
* Newer films are scanned at 4,000 lines, called 4K scanning, anticipating any advances in digital projection or higher resolution in flat panel display.
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_resolution
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"Lines" and resolutions are two different concepts. I know 35mm is pretty good, but 16mm is rather poor. I would like to see an equivalency chart (but it needs to be a practical one, not a theoretical one). Interesting topic, though few would have use for it.
ClubSteeler and slacker, the commentary on DVD cameras not being "archive quality" like DV is not about media longevity, but rather a statement about the image quality. The DVD shot movies are going to suffer because of several variables. DV is a better route for a compressed-format consumer digital video camera. This goes back to "what is an archive" and falls under the category of serving as a source for later editing.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
When I work with my home movies whether from VHS (our first video camera took full size VHS tapes) or mini DV, I get them onto DVDs, make an ISO of the DVD files and store those on a hard drive (along with a text file telling what each ISO contains), I also make DivX for approx. 6 hours of "non-stop family fun"
as a DVD data disc plus I keep all original tapes. All are stored in a temperature controlled enviroment (I figure if it's too hot/too humid/too cold for me than it is for my tapes and discs too) and in cases to keep the dust/pet hair/cigarette smoke off of them.
Also, various family members get DVDs so there are other copies floating around some where if needed.
I use either Verbatim Data Life Plus or TY discs and I don't use sticky labels. I burn at half the top rated speed for the DVDr (if it's 8x, I burn at 4x). DVD Decrypter or ImgBurn for DVDs, Nero for data discs.
I haven't been able to think of anything else to add to my archiving process so now I keep my fingers crossed as I wait for time to march on and see what happens.
Edit: I also read a lot and try to use what seems to be the best and most sensible advice from others who are way more experienced and knowledgeable than I. -
I think you mean to say that lines of resolution and coded pixel resolution are two different concepts, lordsmurf. Resolution itself is a general expression of detail and can be measured many different ways. Pixel resolution is meaningless unless all sources are digital. The general measurement of "resolution" across analogue and digital formats is measured in lines of resolution which measures how many lines can be resolved from the image, that is how close the lines can be together and still be visibly distinguished.
As said above, DVDs support around 500.
Lines of resolution of film is a relative concept. It varies by shooting conditions and film type. Doing a pan effectively decreases the lines of resolution as compared to doing a still shot. But what is clear is that the lines of resolution of 35mm and 16mm are substantially greater than what both DVD and DV support, so I think its pretty moot trying to argue that one format is more suitable for archiving versus the other...again purely from a standpoint of resolution.
There of course is no direct equivalency chart between 35mm and 16mm, but in practice, 16mm is enlarged 3 to 4 times when blown up to 35mm. I wouldn't call 16mm poor at all. It still contains more effective lines of resolution than what any of our current HD formats support. -
DVDs and CDs will last much longer than many sources indicate IMO. I recall some source said once that floppy disks were good only for a year or two if memory serves, but I still have some floppies over a dozen years old that are still good. I rarely use floppies now, but the old ones I have still do the job when needed. It wouldn't surprise me if CDs and DVDs last a life time when properly stored, i.e. no extremes of temperature and humidity.
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Although I'd have to agree that using DV as a storage medium is preferable to MPEG I'd also have to agree with LS in that much of that is marketing bullshit. If you want to take it step further DV isn't a very good storage format either especially if the digital equivalent of the resolution of the film is beyond 720x480(or PAL). I have some film myself I want to convert but am still waiting for a affordable solution for doing it myself such as a scanner that I scan individual frames to high resolution sequential tiff images.
Edit: automatically..... :P I know I can do it manually... -
Originally Posted by lordsmurf
The best consumer TBC that I have seen is inside my MiniDV Camcorder, and its 4:1:1 sampling is more than adequate for VHS bandwidths. The Bitrate is 25 Mb/s.
In contrast, most DVD Recorders in 3 hour mode sample at 352, which is equivalent to 2:1:0 sampling. The Bitrate at 3 hours is about 3 Mb/s. -
Originally Posted by greymalkin
if i'm wrong on this point, i'm sure someone will be nice enough to insult me, i mean correct me. -
lordsmurf: you made the following statement:
"There is no such thing as this, not in any optical media I'm aware of (LD, DVD, CD, and some others). Somebody that says "silver dye" has no idea what is actually in a disc."
i guess i must be wrong then as is prodisk, who actually manufactures the disks:
https://www.american-digital.com/prodsite/product.asp?p=1880&c=1096&name=Prodisc(8X)InkjetSi lver(AzoDye)DVD-RSpindle
tell me again how neither i, nor the guy who put up that site, knows what we're talking about. -
Originally Posted by deadrats
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The dyes used are organic typically, and have nothing to do with silver.
The link you give should be read as "Ink Jet Printable Silver, AZO dye", meaning, the dye is AZO, the top of the disc is ink jet printable and the surface color is silver as opposed to white or gold. -
here's a good link on how data is stored on DVD's and what part the dye and silver play in the process:
http://www.opticaldisc-systems.com/2003JulyAug/Recordble34.htm
it should also be obvious that CD/DVD is not an adequately reliable method for archiving.
maybe this is why servers are always backed up to tape (at a cost of 5 grand for the equipment) and not to DVD+/-R/RW which would cost significantly less. -
my cd's burned 12 yrs ago are still fine....that's all I can say, to many things wrong with this article ...
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Don't make the mistake of thinking that CDs and DVDs are the same, even if they may share similar dyes.
Your burned CD might be 12 years old, but I wouldn't assume your burned DVD will last that long. CD's have been around longer, more stable, less data stuffed into the same area, less prone to errors, fewer compatibility issues, etc....... -
that was in the early days of burning cd's, just like now for dvd's.....
well, well see how long will last. -
Originally Posted by deadrats
The opticaldisc-systems document actually has very little to do with the conversation. It mostly addresses accuracy of the pits and some relations between the laser and energy absorption needs. I don't think you even read it. Also consider the source of the documents: Interaxia AG. Not quite your best example of a quality media manufacturer, with their "wonderful" VDSPMSAB01 and VDSPSAB01 media.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
Originally Posted by ClubSteeler
Why are CDs more stable? Are they really less prone to errors? Have you read the reviews of optical burners lately. Plenty of them have errors in the cd burning process.
The amount of data burned has nothing to do with the longevity of the optical medium. The only thing that the amount data would potentially cause a problem is if you overburned a disc and an optical drive failed to read that disc because you exceeded the capacity of that disc.
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Someone who claims that cd/dvd media fails after 2-5 years is either misinformed, or ignorant. Either of which just means that the person hasn't acquired sufficient real knowledge yet to realize their error.
An "expert" who makes the same claim exposes themself as someone who is willing to supply misinformation to achieve an agenda that would be damaged by the truth. Such a person cannot be trusted in anything they say.
An "expert" who makes the same claim, and then (to lend credibility) cites a study that refutes the claim, relying on the unwillingness of anyone to check the reference, is contemptuous of what is honorable (and also can not be trusted).
If you'll actually read the NIST study this "expert" cites, you'll find that in the document's
conclusion they say:Results suggest that these media types will ensure data is available for several tens of years and therefore may be suitable for archival uses.Originally Posted by lordsmurf -
If a disc has a weak sector (or burn) to begin with, over time it can and will fail. Discs are organic medium that can change because of the enviromnet they are in, much like tape. Moisture, and heat both play hell on tape and optical storage. Optical discs are better because there is no wear and tear due to use, a tape over time will degrade the more it is played, stopped, rewind, fast forward.
I don't know how long discs do last, but the TDKs and some of the Princo DVD-Rs I mastered in 2001 are still able to be read today, so that's at least five years. However, I have also had media that has failed after 2years, 2days, even 2seconds, but I believe this is because of quality control in the plants that produce the media, not the nature of all optical discs. -
Originally Posted by bevills1
Similar, a floppy disk (160K single side) with Tandy OS9 level I, stills works. I just store them in a clean closed box with a de-humidifier.
On the disk media I think floppies were made of better materials back them.
I started burning CD-R several years ago (at work). Some media was bad, some other was very good, but I still have several old CD’s burned about a decade ago and they are still readable.
On the DVD area, I noticed that most Taiwan media gives me lots of trouble. So lately I’ve been using made in Japan or Verbatim.
I use D8 tapes for long term storage of home movies. I’m under the impression that D8 will last longer than mini DV tapes. I only hope that my video CAM last that much
I almost forget...
Dirty Little Secret #3:
DVDs are not "high resolution".
Worse yet, just to give you the proper perspective on DVDs made by the transfer mills, the DVDs (single layer DVDs) made on a computer are about half the resolution of DVDs (double layered DVDs) that come from the "video store".
I usually keep a copy of my D8 home movies authored to a no menu single layer DVD, to be able to find quickly parts of movies. I’m sure that the resolution I’m using is the same as the one in the digital 8 tape or any other movie bough from a store. I just use higher bandwidth in these self made DVD’s than most bough movies…
On the other hand my Panasonic DMR-ES10 refuses to lower resolution when recording 4 hours shows …
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LS,
Just an FYI, your Jul 20, 2006 05:50 and subsequent posts were excellent. I thoroughly enjoyed the read. Very helpful. Clear. Makes sense!
I guess the bottom line is that there ARE NO better ways to store video for the masses other than miniDV tapes and DVD discs. We have to do the best we can with the choices we have.
Anyone have any comments with regard to the new Blu Ray discs using an inorganic dye and being copper and silicon based rather the organic based like our current dvds? Maybe we'll finally get a 100 year disc?
Mark -
Originally Posted by slacker
There is no doubt that DVD is better than CD, not simply because of stable data size, but because of the improvements made in disc construction, such as the addition of an upper polycarbonate layer and more resilient glues., both of which add protection. I'm quite confident that the next replacement technology (which I honestly doubt will be Blu-Ray or HD-DVD, those are just middle steps to the next generation, like Laserdisc was) will include yet more improvements in areas.
I want to see more scratch resistance. It might even be nice to see interlocked platters, held together by their own polycarbonate layers, instead of glue alone, so a disc could not separate from a simple drop of a few feet. It would also be nice if data structures required a multi-TOC setup, so that partial destruction of a disc would not lead to catastrophic loss, a backup TOC could still access unharmed disc sectors.
On a side note, not all DVDs use purely organic dyes. Most of them are stabilized with metallic and inorganic compounds (sometimes with heavy saturation), and a few more recent discs are using outright synthetic organics. A purely inorganic system is probably the next evolution.Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
FAQs: Best Blank Discs • Best TBCs • Best VCRs for capture • Restore VHS -
Originally Posted by ClubSteeler
os not a good one as 10-12 years ago they were very new and had not been around a long time 8)
Originally Posted by lenti_75
The oldest one i see that still works is how long they have proved to me they last 8)
I don't care how many test's and accelerated aging techniques they use -
Originally Posted by Noahtuck
The accelerated aging techniques provide you with an reliable estimate of how long a DVD will last. It certainly is not a guarantee that ALL DVDs will last that long. No more than natural aging is a guarantee that ALL DVDs will last that long. With testing we can gain information, now, on what to expect down the road from DVDs.
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Originally Posted by RLT69
The only cd's/cdr's i have ever had go bad were either scratched or broken, i have never had a cd or cdr just stop working and i have some cdr's that are also pushing 10+ years.
And yes, they give a good estimate with accelerated aging but then that's not the real world and when there has yet to be ANY dvd or dvdr last longer than what they have actually existed, they have not proven as a matter of fact they will last any longer regardless of what brand, manufacturing process or way they were burned ect. -
going back to what adam said above (dv handles interlace better than dvd) , it wouldnt be so if you could use field based encoding instead of frame base - well you can, but it will not be dvd complaint (and dv still handles it a bit better) , nor will it even play in a lot of machines...
as for not editing mpeg2, what about HDV ? or Betacam SX ? or XDCAM ? or IMX ? --- those are all mpeg2 formats designed for editing ...."Each problem that I solved became a rule which served afterwards to solve other problems." - Rene Descartes (1596-1650)
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