The settings will range in location on the various models.
CALIBRATION (or B.E.S.T.) = This attempts to find the best portion of the tape to play and record. It is really never a good idea for recording. Tapes recorded on a so-called "best" path tend to not want to play in other machines, even SP mode ones. In years past, I've suggested people leave this feature turned ON when playing back a tape, but in recent months, I'm finding more and more tapes that jitter because of this setting. I've left mine OFF for several weeks now, turning it on only once or twice.
PICTURE MODE = This is the JVC DNR filters, part of the DigiPure system. Excellent set of filters. Usually AUTO/NORM is the best setting. It removes mild grain/noise, but does not harm clarity of the image. SOFT is good for really noisy video, especially noisy cartoons. I pretty much never suggest SHARP. If you want to sharpen the video, by a separate detailer/enhancer (SignVideo, Vidicraft, etc).
DIGITAL R3 = This is edge correction. Another method to add detail. It's really not very good, you'd be better off with a separate detailer (as mentioned in the picture mode info). Usually the R3 is so minimal you won't notice any changes in sharpness or detail. At worst, it adds black specks to the video, a coring error.
AUDIO MONITOR = This allows you to access both tracks on the tape. All VHS/S-VHS tapes record a mono linear audio track. Many also add ... ADD!... a HiFi track. If your tape is physically damaged, or will not track correctly, you will often hear noise in the HiFi track. Switching to the linear MONO track will often ignore this noise, providing a clean audio signal, though somewhat muted in tone. The JVC outputs mono to both speakers. MIX can give an echo, so it's not suggested. HIFI L and HIFI R select either channel. This can have its uses, but not often. Most remotes also have an A. MONITOR button, to access this feature easier.
DIGITAL TBC/DNR = This is the line TBC with integrated DNR (more JVC DigiPure). This really cleans up video well. Sometimes, it can cause more errors than it corrects, but not too often. Usually worsening is isolated to the flagging error, which requires a different type of TBC to fix, or a special set of sync filters (like the ones found in the Panasonic ES10 DVD recorder). On most NTSC models, this is a green button (or green LED by a button) on the front of the VCR. For PAL, you usually have to go into the menu and enabled it that way.
STABILIZER = This attempts to correct jittering, extraneous motion, and errors that act similar to the old-fashioned V-HOLD errors. You never want to have this enabled while recording, as it will give similar negative results like when using the CALIBRATION on recording (discussed above). When playing, it may or may not correct errors. It tends to help more on exaggerated problems, not so much with small errors.
MORE TIPS!
TBC/DNR and STABILIZER cannot be engaged at the same time. While this would be nice, its not an option.
Your older 9600-9800-9900 units were built better than the newer 9911 units. All of the 7000 series were built pretty much the same, which includes the SR-V10U. The SR-V101US is similar to the 9911. These are NTSC numbers. But all the machines work well.
Your 7000, SR, 8000(PAL) and 9000 units are the good ones. These have all the filters and the line TBCs. Lesser models are missing the TBCs. Anything older than the x600 models (7600, 9600, etc) are missing some features. So those old 9500 units, for example, are not as good as a 9600.
The 9600 units came out in about 1996 or so. So realize the equipment is almost a decade old, and could have many hours on them, when being bought. In 1999, the 9800 replaced the 9600. Other series (3000, 4000, 5000, 7000) are the same, in terms of when series models came out.
If your JVC VCR has trouble on the tape, try another VCR. This won't happen often, but it does happen. Sharp, Toshiba, Mitsubishi and Panasonic VHS and S-VHS decks are good choices to have around for secondary units.
If your JVC is acting up, or breaks, go fix it. JVC certified service centers are all over the place. There is one in most major cities. Some little electronics repair shop has the JVC repair cert.
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Nice tips! Sharp mode tends to be good only with cartoons and animation with flat colors. I notice that it smooths out the colors and then sharpens the edges of all objects. I recommend not using it on video that has people in it. It will make people look plastic. It takes away the rough detail in people's faces. Auto is sometimes a hit-or-miss. It made a couple of my tapes too soft. I had to use edit instead.
This thread shows some differences between using Digital R3 on/off. IMO, Digital R3 is not aggressive and doesn't add any "black specks" from what I can see. If you don't have a detailer...I think the best settings to use(at least on my 9911U) are:
AUTO with Digital R3 ON
EDIT with Digital R3 OFF
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