Upside of Anger Difficult to Rip

[coodbe]

I have DVD43, Magic DVD Ripper and Magice DVD Copier. For burning I have 1 Click DVD, Power DVD Copier, DVDX PLatinum and Sonic DVD. For authoring I have TPGEncDVD, DVDX Platinum and Nero Start Smart.

I could not rip "Upside of Anger" with any of the above. It has more than Macrovision and Sony ARccOs or CSS. I suspect it has "Alpha-DVD". There was material dispersed on the DVD that "throws off " the software that reads the material. There is bad material in there that is mistaken as good VIDEO_TS Files. Some of the above programs immediately singaled an error as soon as I attempted to copy the DVD. The DVD43 stayed green during all of this. Some of the software copied to DVDR and everything looked good but when I attempted to play it back the ripped DVD on the computer or standalone DVD recorder it would not. On three separate ripped DVD's the standalone said there was dirt on the DVD or it was damaged. On the computer only coming attractions or comentaries were able to be played.

I finally was able to rip it to the hard drive using anydvd and ran it through vobblanker before ripping it back to DVD with NeroRecode. I could not burn a playable DVD when I attempted to burn from DVD to DVDR even with anydvd in the background. When I analzied the Vob files that were ripped to the hard drive before vobblanker there were many files there that would not play at all. One when played yielded a predominatlly black picture.

[guns1inger]

I would suggest the latest version of anydvd and either dvd decrypter or DVD-FAB Decrypter (my preference is for the original Decrypter because it has more features). I have never been able to get useable output from vobblanker, but I know other swear by it.

Worst case, use DVD decrypter (still with anyDVD running) to demux the video and audio back to elementary streams, and reauthor to get the movie.

[NiteLite]

DVD Decrypter 3.5.4.0
It's free and will rip your disc in question.

If using anyDVD and DVD decrypter together I think you are suppose to ( settings/ I/O ) untick under "interface" ASPI and tick Elby CDIO.
But AnyDVD is not needed with this movie.
NL

[coodbe]

Is there a way to identify which purchased DVD's have the "bad"video cells in them prior to ripping to the hard drive? I would like to burn DVD to DVDR without downloading to the hard drive. I want to burn directly to DVDR. The problem is I don't want to waste media (play back the burned DVD before realizing that there were "bad cells on the orginal DVD). Can you tell by the break down that is shown on DVD Decripter if there are bad cells or is there some other program that will?

[tonydead]

DVD Decrypter has no problems with Upside of Anger. I haven't had any DVD release that Decrypter hasn't taken care of, although I have the other tools on hand, haven't had to use them yet.

The Sony BS beats some of my software, but not Decrypter.....why doesn't everyone use it?

[coodbe]

DVD Decrypter has no problems with Upside of Anger. I haven't had any DVD release that Decrypter hasn't taken care of, although I have the other tools on hand, haven't had to use them yet.

The Sony BS beats some of my software, but not Decrypter.....why doesn't everyone use it?

But you have to use it to download to the hard drive before you burn to DVD. I want to burn directly to DVD. So is there a way to rule out that a DVD has bad cells before it is burnt directly to DVDR?

[mill48]

DVD -> HD -> DVD -R/+R is much more reliable than DVD -> DVD +R/-R!

If you're concerned about not wasting media, I strongly suggest that you reconsider your strategy!

Good luck ...

[ebenton]

Copying directly from one DVD to another is *extremely* unreliable. Copy to your hard drive first, then burn to DVD. You'll be glad you did.

[rfielder]

Is there a way to identify which purchased DVD's have the "bad"video cells in them prior to ripping to the hard drive? I would like to burn DVD to DVDR without downloading to the hard drive. I want to burn directly to DVDR. The problem is I don't want to waste media (play back the burned DVD before realizing that there were "bad cells on the orginal DVD).

Use RW discs to test at times like this.

[BSpielbauer]

Is there a way to identify which purchased DVD's have the "bad"video cells in them prior to ripping to the hard drive? I would like to burn DVD to DVDR without downloading to the hard drive. I want to burn directly to DVDR. The problem is I don't want to waste media (play back the burned DVD before realizing that there were "bad cells on the orginal DVD). Can you tell by the break down that is shown on DVD Decripter if there are bad cells or is there some other program that will?

Right now, at least, it is pretty safe to assume that any DVD which is a Sony release, or a Columbia release, or a Tri-Star release, and which was released during this calendar year (2005) has the ARccOS form of copy protection (which is the structure protection).

Also, you can choose to always rip it using the last version of DVDDecrypter. Very early in the process, before you actually click on the "decrypt" button to start, DVDDecrypter gives you a few lines of warning. As I recall, it says something like this:

-Warning... Possible Structure Protection found;
-DVDDecrypter will replace bad cells as needed;

Now, the only caveat about this last item.... you will also OCCASIONALLY see this same warning on discs that do not have the structure protection. A sort of a "false positive." I have seen this on three discs which were NOT ArCCos-protected, and LighteningK (the author of DVDDecrypter) confirmed that we would see these false positives once in awhile.

Your best bet so far, is to use the first method, above. IF it is a Sony/Columbia/Tristar, and if it is recent (check Amazon, they give the exact date of release), assume it has it. So far, all DVDs distributed by one of their affiliates appear to have used this.

The trickier part in all of this is the question of whather you will end up with the "blank space" at the beginning of the films. SOME of the releases have this, in the cells where the "jumping boy" is or the "skateboarding kid." You see 2 to 6 minutes of dead air, prior to the beginning of the film. I just always make sure I check, prior to burning, using DVDShrink. If I find it, I just cut out that portion.

-Bruce

[coodbe]

Copying directly from one DVD to another is *extremely* unreliable. Copy to your hard drive first, then burn to DVD. You'll be glad you did.

I have come to the same conclusion myself. However before I did I purchased a lot of software that copies DVD to DVDR including 1ClickDVD. I have a program that I had used when I was trying to copy Upside of Anger. It can break down titles and you can play each one before burning. You can chose tp save the title by checking it. Its called PowerDVDCopy. At any rate it allows you to wach each title straight from the DVD. I found that I was able to watch previews and some extras but was not able to view the main movie. It started but went blank. I can use this as a tool to check DVD's before burning. I have previously used it with DVDX Platinum. DVDX Platinum also lets you cut out titles before you burn but does not allow you to watch each title before the burn. So I used PowerDVDCopy before cutting out the titles on DVDX Platinum. I don't like the burn that PowerDVDcopy makes after the cuts because you can't fast forward the burnt DVD's.

[coodbe]

DVD -> HD -> DVD -R/+R is much more reliable than DVD -> DVD +R/-R!

If you're concerned about not wasting media, I strongly suggest that you reconsider your strategy!

Good luck ...

I thought I could use PowerDVDCopy as a tool to screen commercial DVD's for the the bad sectors in some of the latest protection but it didn't work. It looks like much of the software that I purchased such as 1ClickDvd is going to be usless even with AnyDVD or DVD43 operating in the background. The burning seemed to go OK but when I played it back on the stand alone it said the DVD is dirty. Thats the way all of my recent burned DVD's have been coming out. Its not the media

But I have had great success on two recent releaeses. I used MagicDVDRipper to burn a whole DVD to the hard drive. Then I used VobBlanker to clean it up. Then I used Nero Recode 2 to compress the burn back to DVD. Nero did a brilliant job. It compressed the main move less than the extras or previews. The picture was exellent on both of the burned movies. I had AnyDVD operating in the background. I don't know if it was needed.