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  1. edDV posted something about this. I believe he said that 16-235 is equivalent to 0 IRE - 100 IRE. 16/0 IRE is video black and 235/100 IRE is 100% luma. 0-15 is reserved for BTB (blacker than black) signals and 236-255 is for the luma clipping area above 100%.
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  2. Member vhelp's Avatar
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    Also, I ran another test on the pics you posted on page 1 here.
    I ran it through my color utiliy, and it reported the following
    values (on a pixel point) on the Blacks:

    B = Black color richness
    color = black color range, where values fluctuated on a pixel
    Gray = all the gray shades

    test1.jpg - Luma (contrast) pattern from the original THX DVD test disc:
    * B = 0 ---- (black color: 0=0)
    * Gray = all are fluidly same color
    * GrayColor first row blocks (253/245/239/235)
    The Original VOB produced no change, and colors were fluid.

    testG.jpg - Pioneer recording, input 0 IRE and VNR "off", Detail "off", etc.
    * B = 0 ---- (black color: 0=0)
    * Gray = all are fluidly same color, as above original vob
    * GrayColor first row blocks (253/245/239/235) (just as above)

    testE.jpg - Panasonic E55 recording, input "lighter" and NR "off":
    * B = 1/2 -- (black color: 1=256/512/66048, 2=768/769, 3=1024/66562)
    * GrayColor first row blocks (222-225/211-217/210-213/208-214)

    testB.jpg - JVC DR-M10 recording:
    * B = 0/1 -- (black color: 0=0, 1=65793)
    * Gray = fluctuations of color (varied within 3 or 4 digits)
    * GrayColor first row blocks (235-237/228-231/223-226/218-222)
    the M10 only fluctuated between 0 and 1 color w/ color values above.

    FWIW.. It seems to me, IMO, that the Pioneer 220-S is doing a fantastic job of
    holding onto the color exactly (though based on gshelley61's pics on page one)
    as with his Original VOB pic
    I also think that it takes a working concerto to work out the final OUTput
    of a given recording scenario. For instance, the dvd player being dvd recorded
    from. Remember, that the dvd recorder hold a great part of the colors holding
    or not holding onto the color accurately enough, and every dvd player brand's
    IRE (and/or color range) will vary from one dvd player to the next.

    -vhelp 3232
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  3. Originally Posted by gshelley61
    A couple of comments on the video input adjustments... they are VERY mild and do not offer the kind of range necessary for color correction and restoration work. For video sources in very good shape that could use a very small tweaking of contrast, brightness, color, hue or detail - the adjustments do work OK for that.

    For anything that needs more help, you really will need a proc amp like the SignVideo or Elite Video units. I also think an outboard detailer like the SignVideo DR-1000 is something very much worth having in the signal chain.
    I assume you are only referring to using video processors for sources like VHS and Laserdisc. Most of my recordings are from TV and I wish I could figure out a way to use video processors for that.
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  4. Originally Posted by sync
    Originally Posted by gshelley61
    A couple of comments on the video input adjustments... they are VERY mild and do not offer the kind of range necessary for color correction and restoration work. For video sources in very good shape that could use a very small tweaking of contrast, brightness, color, hue or detail - the adjustments do work OK for that.

    For anything that needs more help, you really will need a proc amp like the SignVideo or Elite Video units. I also think an outboard detailer like the SignVideo DR-1000 is something very much worth having in the signal chain.
    I assume you are only referring to using video processors for sources like VHS and Laserdisc. Most of my recordings are from TV and I wish I could figure out a way to use video processors for that.
    If you have a cable or satellite box, use the analog Audio/Video outputs from the back of the unit. If you are using basic cable (no box) or antenna, use a stereo VCR as your TV tuner and use the Audio/Video outputs from it. Then you can process the signal any way you like before recording it.
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  5. Originally Posted by gshelley61
    Originally Posted by sync
    Originally Posted by gshelley61
    A couple of comments on the video input adjustments... they are VERY mild and do not offer the kind of range necessary for color correction and restoration work. For video sources in very good shape that could use a very small tweaking of contrast, brightness, color, hue or detail - the adjustments do work OK for that.

    For anything that needs more help, you really will need a proc amp like the SignVideo or Elite Video units. I also think an outboard detailer like the SignVideo DR-1000 is something very much worth having in the signal chain.
    I assume you are only referring to using video processors for sources like VHS and Laserdisc. Most of my recordings are from TV and I wish I could figure out a way to use video processors for that.
    If you have a cable or satellite box, use the analog Audio/Video outputs from the back of the unit. If you are using basic cable (no box) or antenna, use a stereo VCR as your TV tuner and use the Audio/Video outputs from it. Then you can process the signal any way you like before recording it.
    I don't have any video processors yet other than a TBC. For a proc amp or detailer I'm thinking that there won't be one setting that is useful for all source material. So you would have to view the material and probably do some testing before you process it. It's not possible to do that with live tv.
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  6. In the case of live TV, if you basically adjust the image for the particular network/channel you intend to record from, that should be adequate. Although there are some variations from program to program, they are usually pretty mild since the broadcasters employ all kinds of gear to standardize their output signal.
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  7. Originally Posted by gshelley61
    In the case of live TV, if you basically adjust the image for the particular network/channel you intend to record from, that should be adequate. Although there are some variations from program to program, they are usually pretty mild since the broadcasters employ all kinds of gear to standardize their output signal.
    The networks are pretty consistent. My problem is with old reruns on cable channels. One day a show can look fine and the next day it will look soft and washed out. I don't know if it's the broadcasting settings or the tape they are using, but it's inconsistent enough that you wouldn't be able to plan for it.
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