Hard Drive upgrade for Pioneer DVR-520H

[Bill Gates]

What kind of IR transmitter did you use for your PC? A home made or did you buy one, and what type?
Did you set up WinLIRC for the right COM port?

Thanks for the reply.
Well, I used a laptop (Toshiba Portégé 3490CT) which has an IR transmitter (Toshiba FIR Port Type-DO in the device manager), doen't it?
It is on COM1. (When I choose a different COM like COM2, WinLirc does not initialize. So, I suppose that COM1 is the right port. Am I doing something wrong?

I thought so, that explains why it doesn't work, you can't use the IrDA port with WinLIRC.
Try to read the WinLIRC website: http://winlirc.sourceforge.net/

Quote:
Hardware requirements
WinLIRC requires a very simple IR detector connected to a serial port. Any serial hardware that works with the original LIRC will also work with WinLIRC. Note that the parallel port hardware, IRDA ports, and Irman are not yet supported by WinLIRC. WinLIRC also supports a variation on the serial port receiver, that has it's pins attached to the irDA header pins on the motherboard. The transmitter is simply an infrared LED and a current limiting resistor. You should easily be able to buy all the parts for the transmitter and receiver for less that $15.

[NeilD]

Right got remote working last night, nearly managed to erase my ID lol clear button goes back

Just need to go and get a HD today and I'll report back

N

[3to4]

Try to read the WinLIRC website: http://winlirc.sourceforge.net/

Thanks. Now I understand.
Thanks also for NeilD. I ordered the same transmitter.

By the way, what I understood is that when the instruction reads ESC+STEREO, this doesn't mean that the two buttons should be pressed at the same time, but it means that, first, press ESC and then STEREO.
Is my understanding correct?

[Bill Gates]

By the way, what I understood is that when the instruction reads ESC+STEREO, this doesn't mean that the two buttons should be pressed at the same time, but it means that, first, press ESC and then STEREO.
Is my understanding correct?

If you read the whole topic you wouldn't have to ask questions that are already answered
Try to read the answer from Treesmaker here: http://videohelp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1330455#1330455

[NeilD]

I have asked that question myself and the answer is one after another will work, and indeed it does, thats how I nearly destroyed my ID last night.

Hope to pick up a HD later

[Bill Gates]

Further to my earlier posting, I gave up waiting for clarification of the instructions and decided to try and upgrade the hard disk. After 30 minutes of nerve wracking activity (the machine is only 2 months old!), I now have a 300GB DVR520, which gives me 131 hours in SP mode. The instructions are pretty much OK, but could have been a bit clearer.

1. Change HD
2. Power ON (you will get an error message on screen about hardware - Don't panic at this stage)
3. Confirmation of the CPRM ID No. as follows: press ESC then STEREO, take a note of the 9 digit number, you will need it later( same No. is on the back of recorder), Exit this mode by pressing CLEAR.
4. Deletion of the CPRM ID No.: press ESC + STEREO, input the same number as the ID number and press STOP (this happens on the LED display, not on the TV).
5. Input of the CPRM ID No. and ID data: press ESC+STEREO, input 9-digit ID number (again, this is on the LED display) then press SEARCH to register ID, after this recorder's display indicates "INSERT ID", open drawer with recorder's OPEN/CLOSE button and insert ID disc, close. After recorder's display indicates "ID DATA OK" press CLEAR button.
6. Power down and then up again. Go to setup menu and initialise drive.

Some seems to be confused that it says ESC+STREREO an think you have to press the buttons simultaniously, but as someone else clarified you don't have to press the buttons simultaniously.

Here's the instruction rewritten ('+' replaced with 'then' to avoid confusion):

1. Change HD
2. Power ON (you will get an error message on screen about hardware - Don't panic at this stage)
3. Confirmation of the CPRM ID No. as follows: press ESC then STEREO, take a note of the 9 digit number, you will need it later( same No. is on the back of recorder), Exit this mode by pressing CLEAR.
4. Deletion of the CPRM ID No.: press ESC then STEREO, input the same number as the ID number and press STOP (this happens on the LED display, not on the TV).
5. Input of the CPRM ID No. and ID data: press ESC then STEREO, input 9-digit ID number (again, this is on the LED display) then press SEARCH to register ID, after this recorder's display indicates "INSERT ID", open drawer with recorder's OPEN/CLOSE button and insert ID disc, close. After recorder's display indicates "ID DATA OK" press CLEAR button.
6. Power down and then up again. Go to setup menu and initialise drive.

[3to4]

If you read the whole topic you wouldn't have to ask questions that are already answered
Try to read the answer from Treesmaker here: http://videohelp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1330455#1330455

I read this post, but I just wanted to have the confirmation (or re-confirmation).

Anyway, thank you for your clarification and for re-writing the instructions. Now it has become very clear for me.

[NeilD]

Aldi have a 250gb WD Drive on sale at £59.99 inc VAT. Limited supplies and end of season sale model number

WD2500JB-22GVC0

From looking at WD site and its specs it looks ideal Low Noise, very low current and cool running characteristics

I have just picked one up and will be fitting it tonight

Local store only had a few left sale started yesterday so if you are after a drive for this use or another it looks like a great deal

[funhotties2k4]

ARG!! I cant seem to find a good torrent to pioneer_service.nrg If some one wants to sell me a cheap $20.00 pencil and in the box it comes in the mail there just by accident is a dvdr with the image im looking for on it (hint hint). Or mabye put up a ftp so i can snatch it, and ill pay $20.00 for the .txt file you make in the same directory explaining how to wear a condom. Gotta keep it legal HEH (im in USA) I do have PayPal, and I really am serious about this Send me a private message about it to me plz... Thanks!

[funhotties2k4]

For the DVR-520H that is

[NeilD]

Hard Disk Replacement done and working perfect 5100H

If anyone needs any help just ask

Drive from Aldi £59.99 250gb WD 2500

Its much quieter than the old wd800

317hrs in EP Mode
55hrs in Fine Mode
Over 100hrs in SP Mode (Can't remember the actual)

I have taken a few digital images of the install if anyone is interested

This is the rear showing the ID on the label on the 5100h



Here is the HD in place before the operation, this is the WD800



Here is the new WD2500 in place just before setting up

[NeilD]

Small note at the enter ID I put the wrong number in doh, Its ok just hit esc and clear (Do not push Search) it then goes back over the number so you can replace the wrong digits with the correct ones.

[3to4]

Hello, just to prepare for the upgrade, I removed the top cover of my DVR-520H to see what it is like inside. The mounting direction of the hard disk is different from the recorder of NeilD. The hard disk is ST380012ACE (U series), and the jumper is set for cable select. (So, I will have to set a new hard disk to cable select as well.)

The hard disk is mounted on a kind of a caddy which is fixed with 4 screws.
Here I have a question. It may be a stupid question, but how do I remove the white flat cable from its connector? One of the 4 screws used to fix the caddy is in the position shown in the picture, and this screw is not at all accessible. (I could remove it, but I cannot put it back.) To have a better access to this screw, I tried to remove the white flat cable from its connector, but I cannot figure out how it is locked, and I am afraid that I will break it.)

[Bill Gates]

Hard Disk Replacement done and working perfect 5100H

Did you use WinLIRC with my attached config file and the serial port transmitter you bought for this upgrade? Did it work flawless?

[Bill Gates]

To have a better access to this screw, I tried to remove the white flat cable from its connector, but I cannot figure out how it is locked, and I am afraid that I will break it.)

There's probably a part of the socket you can pull up by using your nails in both ends of the socket.
Similar to this, but with a vertical angled plug instead of a horizontal angled plug. Otherwise it is probably just a press fit cable.

[NeilD]

@3to4

Mine is similar however the white flexible board (Ribbon Cable) just released by rocking it backwards and forwards, yours may be different I cannot see it in detail enough can you take a macro image of it.

@Bill

Yes flawlessly


If anyone want use of the IR bit let me know, or you can buy it at the same price as I did

[3to4]

There's probably a part of the socket you can pull up by using your nails in both ends of the socket.

There may be an upper part of the socket, but it seems that it cannot be pulled up. This system is used for my keyboard as well, and one day I tried to release the cable and I broke it!!!

NeilD,
I took a picture of it. It does look like yours.
How did you remove it? By rocking it backward and forward, do you mean by pulling and pushing the flexible ribbon cable gently? In which case I suppose that there is no blocking mechanism to it as opposed to the type described by Bill Gates. Thanks for your help.

[NeilD]

There's probably a part of the socket you can pull up by using your nails in both ends of the socket.

There may be an upper part of the socket, but it seems that it cannot be pulled up. This system is used for my keyboard as well, and one day I tried to release the cable and I broke it!!!

NeilD,
I took a picture of it. It does look like yours.
How did you remove it? By rocking it backward and forward, do you mean by pulling and pushing the flexible ribbon cable gently? In which case I suppose that there is no blocking mechanism to it as opposed to the type described by Bill Gates. Thanks for your help.

See below

[NeilD]

@Bill Gates

Just re-read your question, The IR hardware worked perfectly, I'm not sure if I used your codes I will have to check

[3to4]

See below

NeilD,
Thank you. When I receive the IR Transmitter (the same one as yours), I will order a Maxtor Maxline 3 (250GB) and try the upgrade. All this will probably take one week or two, but I will keep you informed.

[NeilD]

See below

NeilD,
Thank you. When I receive the IR Transmitter (the same one as yours), I will order a Maxtor Maxline 3 (250GB) and try the upgrade. All this will probably take one week or two, but I will keep you informed.

Good luck to you, If you need any help from a newbie just ask.

I looked at my friends 420 and that had a 80gb but a 7200rpm seagate one so I suppose there are Maxtor, WD,Samsung and Seagate drives being used, The Electrical, Thermal and Operating characteristics of the WD SE drives look an excellent choice if available (Much lower current (even startup is half that of the old WD800) and thermally), also since it was Brand New (Two years ago)my 5100h has never played backwards very smoothly but it does now no more jumpyness (s) at all

[3to4]

I looked at my friends 420 and that had a 80gb but a 7200rpm seagate one so I suppose there are Maxtor, WD,Samsung and Seagate drives being used, The Electrical, Thermal and Operating characteristics of the WD SE drives look an excellent choice if available (Much lower current (even startup is half that of the old WD800) and thermally), also since it was Brand New (Two years ago)my 5100h has never played backwards very smoothly but it does now no more jumpyness (s) at all

Thanks. Actually the choice of a hard disk is a big question. As my 80GB hard disk is a seagate U series, I think it is safest to buy a bigger seagate U series. But, I cannot find one. The reason I am thinking of a Maxline is simply that someone used it and it comes with a 3 year warranty. By the way, is your WD SE (Second edition?) drive called Caviar as well? I may as well use this.

[NeilD]

I looked at my friends 420 and that had a 80gb but a 7200rpm seagate one so I suppose there are Maxtor, WD,Samsung and Seagate drives being used, The Electrical, Thermal and Operating characteristics of the WD SE drives look an excellent choice if available (Much lower current (even startup is half that of the old WD800) and thermally), also since it was Brand New (Two years ago)my 5100h has never played backwards very smoothly but it does now no more jumpyness (s) at all

Thanks. Actually the choice of a hard disk is a big question. As my 80GB hard disk is a seagate U series, it is safest to buy a bigger seagate U series. But, I cannot find one. The reason I am thinking of a Maxline is simply that someone used it and it comes with a 3 year warranty. By the way, is your WD SE (Second edition?) drive called Caviar as well? I may as well use this.

Yes the Caviar WD2500 SE edition, If you have Adli in France try them is not I'm pretty sure most M/O component companies will have them

[Delessex]

The drive I fitted to my 520 (& to a few friends 420/520s) still seems to be available:
Western Digital WD3200JB.
Its 320GB, whisper quiet compared to the original MAXTOR & runs cooler too.

[3to4]

I have one more question.
What is the function of the alminium tape on the hard disk?
Earthing? Do I need it?
Can someone clarify? Thanks

[Bill Gates]

Earthing?

Yes

Should I need it?

Yes, why change it?

[3to4]

Yes, why change it?

Well, actually, I am not trying to change. I tried to remove the alminium tape gently, but the tape got a little damaged. So, for instance, if this tape did not have any real function except for Pioneer service center to see that the hard disk was tampered to void the warranty. Then, I would simply not use the tape. But, as you say, it has "earthing" function, then, I will try to re-use the damaged tape, or try to buy some new tape.

[3to4]

Well, I recieved the IR Transmitter (same one as NeilD). I connected it directly (without a serial cable) to the serial port of my laptop (Tecra 9000).
(I waited more than 15 minutes to charge)
Then, I used WinLirc to send codes, but it doesn't seem to work.
Maybe there is more than this to do? Is this transmitter supposed to appear in the device manager? Is there any visual sign (like some diode) that this transmitter is operational?
In the "reconfigure" dialogue box, Transmitter settings are as follows (As I don't understand, I did not change the defaut values.)

Inverted = unchecked
Haredware carrier = unchecked
DTR = checked
TX = unchecked

Can anyone help?

[sapulidi]

maybe you can look the signal of IR Transmitter using camera digital to know work or not

[3to4]

maybe you can look the signal of IR Transmitter using camera digital to know work or not

Thanks. I just checked with my digital camera, and I could see flashing in the same way as my original remote control. So, obviously, the transmitter is working. Then, why doesn't my pioneer react? Of course I have loaded "pioservmtggf1381.cf".

However, the flashing seems much weaker than my original remote control.