Other than epson R200?

[arklab]

This is kind of a stupid question but even though I also got the adapter plug from expansys I though you still needed to use a voltage converter for the Canon UK Printer?

So did I.
Go figure!

[jaxxboss]

Im assuming the adapter plugs are the same we used over in Spain and Italy. Pretty much it is a plug with 2 round (cylindrical) prongs holes that convert to the usa standard flat prongs.

This has nothing to do with changing voltage.

[mccoady]

Mines too hard to get to to look at again but I believe you're right jaxxboss, that's why I couldn't understand how you could use the printer without a voltage converter. Maybe I'm wrong but I was afraid to plug it in without using the converter.

[arklab]

Mines too hard to get to to look at again but I believe you're right jaxxboss, that's why I couldn't understand how you could use the printer without a voltage converter. Maybe I'm wrong but I was afraid to plug it in without using the converter.

The UK plug is an oversized US three prong layout.
The transformer (or US powersupply) is the much safer way to go, but when you think about it you are feeding something expecting 230v only 115v.
In other words, under-volting.
This seems to work OK, although I am suprised.

[jaxxboss]

Its been so long that I kinda forget the specifics, but something about the 2 currents and suposedly the 110volt is more of a shocking experience than the 220 volts is. The bigger issue was the hertz (cycles) factor. Any mechanism that relies upon being able to turn/spin at a precise rpm can have problems when going from a required 50 htz to 60 htz and vice versa. Of course back in the "day" it was with our turn tables. there was a slightly noticable slowing down on the music.

[winifreid]

I think 220 is the more shocking. If I remember, the US decided on 110 for saftey reasons and the 220 folks wanted greater efficiency. There is less power loss when high voltages are transmitted over powerlines.

[jaxxboss]

I pretty sure my dryer uses 220, so thats not it.

[winifreid]

What do you mean? Dryers and ranges use 220 because they require more juice. The higher the voltage the more juice can be pushed through.

[jaxxboss]

LOL, dont ask me to explain it, Im not a twidget.
anywayzz, back to the printer and power supply .. get that sucka in there ark!!!

edit: ALSO. Dont know if this will work or not and it just started today so sorry it wont work for previous purchases, but... there is a $20.00 cannon rebate for buying an ip3000 , 4000, 5000, 6000 .

Im not sure if it will work on the Europe Versions, but hey worth a try for 20 bux!

http://consumer.usa.canon.com/app/pdf/d_camera/PrinterPSrebate020105.pdf

[mccoady]

That was kind of going to be my next question for arklab (or anyone else), do you think we can register our UK printers online at Canon US in case of any future warranty problems? Or do we even need to register our printers? Maybe our UK printers won't be under a US warranty, what's anyone think?

[arklab]

I will gladly be a lab rat for this worthy project. Glad to be able to contribute and not just benefit from other's labor! I will await my instructions.

Thank you, brookelh

Your mission for today, should you choose to accept it …
Go ahead and assemble your Pixma as you normally would.
Plug it into the wall socket (as normal).
DO NOT EVEN LOOK AT A USB CORD, MUCH LESS CONNECT IT TO YOUR COMPUTER! Being in a different room from the computer would be a good safety measure for this first step.

(The following was “inspired” and edited from a post by sampione in http://club.cdfreaks.com

1) The printer power should be turned off when you start!!
2) Press and hold the resume button, then press and hold the power button at the same time (the green indicator will light up)
3) While still holding the power button, release the resume button; then double click the resume button and finally release power button.
(the power light will keep blinking until the printer is ready so just wait until its a steady green)


Now we're in service mode.

4) Press resume 1 time now; the power light should be orange.
5) Press the power button to verify your choice.

And now your results!

What you should expect with a new printer (at least what happened for me on my US Pixma) is ….
Nothing much at all.
A sheet of paper (blank) is cycled through to the output tray. Then another sheet of paper is fead and the printhead moves back and forth as if to print, but does not print anything. A second sheet of blank paper is left in the output tray.
At this point I thought I had a bad print head or something, but I now think this is what happens before the firmware is initialized.

Those who HAVE connected their printer as directed by the computer software install program WILL get a page with a line of info, then a (faint) test pattern, and finally the words “CDR SENSOR=OK”.
Of course it will say this on any US or UK Pixma, which will drive you a little bit MORE nuts!

Anyway, brookelh , after you try the above tell us what happened in your case.

Your next step would be to download the BRITISH drivers from Canon’s UK site.
Use THEM to first set up your new Pixma.

Afterward, (and after the computer reboots) repeat steps 1 through 5.
Then let us know what the first line of info codes says.

Good Luck, Mr. Brookelh!
And for the record, I have never even heard of you or Canon and just what IS a printer, anyway?

[arklab]

That was kind of going to be my next question for arklab (or anyone else), do you think we can register our UK printers online at Canon US in case of any future warranty problems? Or do we even need to register our printers? Maybe our UK printers won't be under a US warranty, what's anyone think?

I'm fairly sure the answer is NO, since Canon US does not even stock the PARTS for the Tray Print versions.

They could, however use US parts to disable that pesky print tray feature for you.

I'd call expansys USA first, and ask.

[arklab]

Im not sure if it will work on the Europe Versions, but hey worth a try for 20 bux!

You know something from "canon consumer USA" won't be honored for a UK printer!

It could, however be a really GREAT way to bring Expansys to Canon's attention.

Just one letter from their legal department should just about do it!

Well worth a shot at a whole $20.

Please just let me know first so I can get another order in first.
For real, Dude!

[krupted]

i bet the reason that the plug-adapter works is what was sort of stated already


The power supply may not be much different at all anyway. The 220vac supply may only tap into one phase, which basically means that is a 120v power supply. This may be why feeding it 120vac works fine, since thats what the 220v version uses anyway. In fact, i wouldnt be surprised if both versions are identical.

If you ask me, (union electricain) if the adapter works, it works, use it! no need to dig any further into it.

[brookelh]

Arklab says:

Good Luck, Mr. Brookelh!

For the record, it is Mrs. Brookelh.
And I will try this out; due to scheduling it may be Thursday before I can.
Report to follow....

Reading the thread on cdfreaks, I may be in the category of people who have no business trying to hack a printer, but since it only cost me $45, I am willing to try.

[arklab]

For the record, it is Mrs. Brookelh

In the imortal words of Donald Trump

Oops

[troyvcd1]

If you are trying to run a device made for 220vac with 110vac power you are asking for trouble not to mention your house burning down. Using a lower voltage 110vac requires a lot more current into the 220vac device to make it work. Eventually it will burn out. A friend of mine had computer speakers which required 220vac. They operated correctly for a while till they started to smoke and eventually burnt out. Some devices are made today to operate on 110vac and also 220vac. If that is the case with this printer then a simple power cord adapter will suffice.

[on30trainman]

In reference to the input voltage for the Pixma power supply:
On page 85 (Appendix) of the US Pixma ip4000/ip3000 Quick Start Guide the Power Supply is defined as AC 110-120 V, 50/60 Hz/ AC 220-240 V, 50/60 Hz. So it looks like the printer can detect or work with the different voltage inputs and can operate on either range. Probably the same spec for the non-US versions.

[troyvcd1]

Lots of companies will try to save a few cents and make a model for use only in areas of 220vac or 120vac. I would definately check the manual for the printer model I had before putting power to it. Also most hardware will say right on the power connector what inputs it can take. I used to work in microsofts hardware department and they would make european versions of devices that only operated on 220vac. They were trying to save 40 cents on an over $100 piece of hardware.

[brookelh]

Arklab,

I opened the box and pulled out the instructions. It says to first plug it in and turn it on so that it can "initialize", then install the print heads and ink tanks, then connect to the computer. Should I go into service mode BEFORE I turn it on for the first time, or afterward, letting it initialize and installing the print head first? Or does it matter? Or does anyone even know?

It actually is in another room from the computer, by the way.

I only have one shot at this first time thing, so I want to be sure what to do!

[brookelh]

I also can't seem to download the UK driver. Windows XP blocks blocks the download, and I tell Windows its OK, but then nothing happens--just a blank screen for several minutes. I have DSL, so it shouldn't take long! Any hints?

[arklab]

First, a new member (KamLover) who does not yet have posting privledge asked me to relay his idea. As sent:

Hi arklab,
I am reading this and VideoHelp forum. On VideoHelp fourm you have told to Mrs. Brookelh do something. I wanted to add something in to it. Before installing driver on computer change computer's region to UK from control panel. This might be the place from where driver is picking up the location of the computer.

I tried to post on VideoHelp forum but I just registered and as per their policy I can't post anything for first 2 days.

I don't know if this will help, but I don't see how it could hurt.

[arklab]

I also can't seem to download the UK driver. Windows XP blocks blocks the download, and I tell Windows its OK, but then nothing happens--just a blank screen for several minutes. I have DSL, so it shouldn't take long! Any hints?

Try this link:
http://software.canon-europe.com/Printers/Bubble_Jet_Printers/PIXMA_iP300010094.asp

Then use the drop-down boxs to select "windows" and "english".
Then Click on:
b4906mux.exe 7210 Kb.

It should download.
You might also turn off any anti-virus protection, as this is also recomended when you finally install the drivers.
Then turn it back on.

[arklab]

Arklab,

I opened the box and pulled out the instructions. It says to first plug it in and turn it on so that it can "initialize", then install the print heads and ink tanks, then connect to the computer. Should I go into service mode BEFORE I turn it on for the first time, or afterward, letting it initialize and installing the print head first? Or does it matter? Or does anyone even know?

It actually is in another room from the computer, by the way.

I only have one shot at this first time thing, so I want to be sure what to do!

I've checked with my wife (who helped me last night), and we both recall that we proceeded in just about that manner.
I also may not have mentioned loading paper in the top hopper - I haven't even put the lower tray in yet.

In any case, protect your investment and follow the instructions, except DON'T attach the USB cable yet.
That can be done after we check your codes and during the driver install program.

It's intresting the UK instructions are different, although they accomplish the same thing.

[arklab]

Maybe its time I explain where I am trying to go here.

There seems to be three "problem areas" to be addressed in getting a US printer to overcome the Canon Americas blocks to printing directly to CD Tray.

1) Hardware issues (such as actually getting a tray that is a pixma tray or will work as well as one; also the "plug" blocking the tray path into the printer and possible missing parts the UK may have.

2) Firmware (controlling software residing inside the printer on an EEPROM chip)

3) Driver and Registry issues (controlling software residing inside the computer) (I think these have been resolved by hacks.)

I believe all three of these can affect each other. A change in any one can be detected by the other two and affect how the entire system will behave in the end.

Firmware Stuff

Let me explain the general idea (as yet not fully proven) behind this "firmware mod" thing. If you are new to Canon (or don’t have one yet), some of this I guess you will have to take on faith, or reports from others with pixmas.

An Example
There is an option in the Pixma (and other Canon) drivers called "Quiet Mode". Its purpose is to allow the printers to work MUCH more quietly, but at the expense of a small speed penalty.
Those have selected this may have noticed that the driver mentions "writing to the printer" and a small delay.

It seems that what is really happening here is the firmware is being written to - in other words, the EEPROM is being reprogrammed.
That way the driver doesn’t have to send one more set of commands to the printer each and every time you print something. Until reset, ALL print jobs are handled as "silent mode". The printer has actually become a semi-permanent "quiet mode" printer. A new and different printer! Such is the power of firmware.

I think this happens the very first time a new pixma is hooked up (via its USB cable) to the computer when asked by the driver install program!

But there are many ways to access and reprogram an EEPROM (Electronically Erasable and Programmable Read Only Memory) chip .

Many are also familiar with "flashing" the BIOS chip on their motherboard, graphics card, CD or DVD drives, and other devices with special "firmware flashing" programs that completely wipeout old and write new firmware in its place.

But there is yet another "secret" way, which our Pixma printers can have their firmware altered, even after the initial "flashing" by the driver install program.

This entails pressing and holding multiple buttons (power and reset) in certain combinations and sequences.

In the previous post we covered how to enter this “secret” or service mode, but just to read what was programmed.

In a little bit I'll list the ASSUMED other codes (at least those discovered so far).

[brookelh]

My results:

I plugged in my printer, turned it on and let in initialize, installed print heads and ink. My, how printers have changed since my HP Deskjet 722! (Which still prints wonderfully at 6 years old, by the way!) Then I turned it off and did the following:

1) The printer power should be turned off when you start!!
2) Press and hold the resume button, then press and hold the power button at the same time (the green indicator will light up)
3) While still holding the power button, release the resume button; then double click the resume button and finally release power button.
(the power light will keep blinking until the printer is ready so just wait until its a steady green)


Now we're in service mode.

4) Press resume 1 time now; the power light should be orange.
5) Press the power button to verify your choice.

What I got appears to be a print alignment page check. I don't have a scanner available to post a picture of it right now, maybe tonight if you need that, but I can describe it:

First, a line of text:
iP4000 (LTR) V1.06 USB(203703) FA=01 27 88 D=000.3 CDR(000000,000000)

This is followed by several small grids in various colors, a box with lines on both margins (not a good description of that), a big blue rectangle all the way across the page, blank space, some black vertical lines,

then finally:

CDR SENSOR=OK (in red!)

I am assuming that all the graphics are not relevant, and that the interesting part is the first line.

So.... What now? I successfully downloaded the UK driver--XP SP2 was babysitting me! I have told the control panel that I live in the UK. (I am expecting pounds and meters to start showing up any time now!)

Do I need to acquire an Epson tray, and where would I do that? Should I get some printable CDs? Have you figured out how to remove the plug blocking the tray path without tearing the printer apart?

[on30trainman]

I ran the same test on my ip4000 - it has had US and other flavors of printer drivers installed before I ran the test page. Have done registry change to enable CD tray option. Get "tray down warning" when try to print to a CD. My first line is:

ip4000 (LTR) V1.06 USB(30052C) FA=01 36 A9 D=002.6 CDR(000000,000000)
almost the same as yours. My printer is on USB port 2 which may be difference in USB number. I also got the CDR SENSOR=OK in RED.

Not sure this test answers any difference between US and other ip4000s.

The plastic blocking piece in the CD tray comes out rather easily. Use a thin blade on either side (or both sides) to release a small clip(s) and gently pull the piece out.

My feeling is it is something in the registry, plus the small reflective pads on a real CD tray must have some function. I wonder if there are some photocells on the non-US versions than were left off the US ones.
Hopefully something will come of all these tests.

[arklab]

Well, you guys have really been busy!

Sorry, I don’t have much time just now – more tonight.
I have been (finally) taking a harder look at item 1 – the hardware, and I’m afraid it doesn’t look too good.

While the “plug” blocking the path of the CD Tray is easy to remove (it just snaps in and out) its counterpart in the UK is much different.
First, the UK “plug replacement” part pivots.
It also has a pair of spring-loaded rollers, which rise as the tray is inserted.
It may (or may not) house an LED sensor … there is certainly room, though.
It seems likely that it mat be connected electrically to the rest of the machine.

In short, it’s going to take a LOT of work to duplicate it.

Our best chance now is to see if we can find a way to allow it to just print a CD, even if the machine thinks it is printing to paper.
This would give us the final product, although in a crude manner.

Back later …

[arklab]

A quick bit of info ...
The "code line" from my UK iP3000 is as follows:

iP3000 V1.09 USB(B20270) FA=03 0A A2 D=001.0 CDR(+00138,-00362)

I'm afraid the CDR(+00000,-00000) must mean that the printer is not CDR ready as yet.

For those who may wish to try reseting things, this is what someone else supposed:

So finally if this is service mode then you should be able to (in step 3) press the resume button maybe 2,3,4,5 times instead and get something else printed, or maybe you get a factory reset I really dont know but feel free to try!

EDIT: for the canon bjc3000 the mumber of presses in step 3 means as follows:

0 times service/factory test print
1 times EEPROM information print
2 times EEPROM initialization (clears the settings to factory default, except the model setting)
3 times Waste ink counter reset
4 times model setting (see below)
5 times ink presence check
6 times power off/carriage lock

To execute these options you press the power button.

For the model setting, when you've pressed resume 4 times and then the power button you should press the resume button again a given number of times to select the model, and then the power button to execute!

I HAVE NOT TRYED THESE YET. DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK

Good Luck

[arklab]

I've mentioned the "rollers" on ether side of the UK tray feed.
Here are a couple of good pictures of them.
I found them on the forum at Steve's Digicam, another excellent site with some similar discussions.

http://www.stevesforums.com/forums/attachment.php?id=5242