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  1. Originally Posted by lordsmurf
    This thread was 10 pages long yesterday. Where'd it all go ?????
    I think you're right... did the pages get longer or something?
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  2. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    I tihnk every time I use this Elite BVP-4 Plus, my jaw drops at what wonders it can do. The signal passthrough is almost flawless clean, and the options are just amazing. This has drastically cut down on my software filtering time, though it is still sometimes needed on really dirty source.
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  3. gshelley

    I noticed your AVP-100 listing on eBay. Don't you like your Vidicraft anymore?
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  4. Originally Posted by TheMadHatter
    gshelley

    I noticed your AVP-100 listing on eBay. Don't you like your Vidicraft anymore?
    Yeah - but I've got 8 pieces of Vidicraft gear on hand now...

    As much as I like them all, I can't keep that many!
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  5. Since one week I own the JVC DR-M10S (made in Germany !!). I have a problem with DVD-RAM recordings. The Picture and sounds stops sometimes or is realy bad for a few seconds as if you use real cheap and bad media (like Princo). BUT I am using Maxell DVD-RAM, that's good media right ??? I read before about problems with RAM and JVC on this forum. Is there a explanation or do I have to live with it??

    Second question: I have DIVX and XVID movies on my PC. How can I easily (without long converting times etc.) import these movies to JVC using the DV-in port? I just want an easy way to do this. Maybe someone has a method to do this??

    Just one thing: I had a LG DR4810 first, it is really bad in accepting (cheap) media. But has good features. But I returned it because I don't want to pay 6 for one -RW each time. By the way, The picture quality of JVC is just superb !!
    JVC THA30 Home Cinema Set
    JVC DR-M10 DVD Recorder
    Sony XB8AV Hifi Dolby Pro Logic set
    Next ye 2005 Digital Satellite Receiver
    HUTH Analog Satellite Receiver
    Playstation 2 (modded with Messiah 2)
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  6. Member
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    Ihave since about 10 days the JVC dr-m10 probably form the same source (germany) as I live in Belgium
    I 've used Maxell DVD-RAM, Pioneer DVD-RW , Maxell DVD-R and TDK DVD-R without any problem sofar; the JVC accepts even Princo DVD-R - from the lather I've burned 5 till now and they all play flawlessly
    Suggest you check whether there is dust or scratches on your Maxell DVD-RAM
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  7. Member ejai's Avatar
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    I've found that the JVC works great with DVD-RW but has problems with DVD-Ram, Lots of artifacts when using RAM. If I want to use RAM I use my Panasonic.

    Since I prefer the quality of the JVC, I only use -RW now.
    Do unto others....with a vengeance!
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  8. Originally Posted by ejai
    I've found that the JVC works great with DVD-RW but has problems with DVD-Ram, Lots of artifacts when using RAM. If I want to use RAM I use my Panasonic.

    Since I prefer the quality of the JVC, I only use -RW now.
    I agree with ejai !
    I get a lot of artifacts too even when I don't use live memory playback during recordings. It's a pity.
    I only use RAM now if I really need to play via live memory playback, otherwise I use -RW too. I normaly like JVC products but I'm a little bit disappointed with this recorder. It's noisy, even in power safe off mode the vantilator still runs..?? I'm not sure what JVC engineers were thinking.

    JVC THA30 Home Cinema Set
    JVC DR-M10 DVD Recorder
    Sony XB8AV Hifi Dolby Pro Logic set
    Next ye 2005 Digital Satellite Receiver
    HUTH Analog Satellite Receiver
    Playstation 2 (modded with Messiah 2)
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  9. Originally Posted by gshelley61
    Originally Posted by TheMadHatter
    gshelley

    I noticed your AVP-100 listing on eBay. Don't you like your Vidicraft anymore?
    Yeah - but I've got 8 pieces of Vidicraft gear on hand now...

    As much as I like them all, I can't keep that many!
    Ok, so what does it boil down too? What's the kick@ss Vidicraft unit to get?
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  10. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    None. I think the DR-1000 that replaced the VidiCraft Detailers are better. And then the Elite Video BVP-4 is pretty slick. If you got the money, and need more than just mild adjustments, skip Vidicraft and go one higher.
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  11. I think which units are best depends on your purposes and is certainly subjective. I have a DR-1000 Image Enhancer and also had a BVP-4 (which I recently sold). The Elite Video BVP-4 is a very powerful video color correction device with some unique controls and capabilities. For me, I was not that impressed by the "resolution boost" (the DR-1000 and Vidicraft Detailers do a better job of sharpening IMHO). Also, the left edge of the frame is not completely covered by the processor - the split screen control does not sweep all the way over to the left and the function can't be bypassed.

    This is no problem for a standard TV as the edge area is outside the safe region (it is overscanned out of view). Because I have a DLP display hooked up to a Bravo D1 upscaling DVD player, the entire video frame is visible, including the left and right frame edges that are not seen with a regular TV. So, I need something that processes the entire frame (not just the safe area). This is something that is not unique to the BVP-4... several video processors I've tested focus on the safe area and do not cover the entire frame area, leaving the left, right, and sometimes the top and bottom edges unprocessed.

    All of the Vidicraft units and the Sign Video DR-1000 process the entire frame, edge to edge with no visible "edge flaws" like chroma noise or ghosting. Some of the other units I've tested that process the entire frame effectively are the Laird/ICM VC2000, the Knox K700, the Feral A4:2:2 TBC, and the Leitch VPA 331N Proc Amp.

    So, even though the BVP-4 is a very cool and unique processor that can do a couple of things that I haven't seen in other processors (like "black restore", for example), for my purposes it was not the right fit. I am mostly converting decent sources and need only mild to moderately strong color correction and enhancement.

    For composite video sources, my current setup is Source (LD, VHS, etc.) ---> Vidicraft Detailer III (video signal looped through the Feral A4:2:2 TBC ---> Leitch VPA 331N) ---> Vidicraft Proc Amp ---> JVC DR-M10SL

    The Detailer, the Leitch, the TBC and the Vidicraft Proc Amp are all defeatable individually, so I have lots of flexibility in their use depending on the source quality and what type of enhancement and/or correction may be needed.

    For s-video sources (VHS, MiniDV, Digital8, etc.), I run things this way: Source ---> DR-1000 ---> Feral TBC ---> DR-M10SL (also run CV out from the TBC to the Vidicraft Proc Amp so I can monitor luma levels with the meter). I use the older Vidicraft Detailer III for composite video because I think it does a better job on CV sources than the DR-1000 does. The DR-1000 is clearly better and noticeably cleaner than the Vidicraft Detailer when using an s-video source, though.

    Bottom line is... use what you like and serves your main purposes effectively.
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  12. Member Moonstomp's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Asskicker
    Originally Posted by ejai
    I've found that the JVC works great with DVD-RW but has problems with DVD-Ram, Lots of artifacts when using RAM. If I want to use RAM I use my Panasonic.

    Since I prefer the quality of the JVC, I only use -RW now.
    I agree with ejai !
    I get a lot of artifacts too even when I don't use live memory playback during recordings. It's a pity.
    I only use RAM now if I really need to play via live memory playback, otherwise I use -RW too. I normaly like JVC products but I'm a little bit disappointed with this recorder. It's noisy, even in power safe off mode the vantilator still runs..?? I'm not sure what JVC engineers were thinking.

    Hi Guys,

    Give some Panasonic DVD-RAM a try. I've been using them repeatedly on my DR-M10Sek and have had no problems, even with Live Memory Playback. As for -RW discs - I use TDK, again with excellent results.

    Regards,

    Moonstomp.
    Just because you're nobody, doesn't mean that you're no good. Just because there's a reason, doesn't mean it's understood. It doesn't make it all right ! (The Specials)
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  13. Member ejai's Avatar
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    All I use is Panasonic RAM disks, but I get the same results. I have a friend who also has a JVC M10 (per my recommendations) and he also has the same problem using the RAM disks witht the M10.
    Do unto others....with a vengeance!
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  14. Hmm - I'll have to pop in a RAM tonight to check out mine... I haven't used one in the JVC yet.
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  15. Member ejai's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by gshelley61
    Hmm - I'll have to pop in a RAM tonight to check out mine... I haven't used one in the JVC yet.
    I think Lordsmurf also noticed some issues using the RAM disks and the JVC M10.
    Do unto others....with a vengeance!
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  16. Member ejai's Avatar
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    This is a link to a thread I created sometime ago about JVC M10 and RAM Disks. https://www.videohelp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=236271&highlight=lordsmurf+dvdram
    Do unto others....with a vengeance!
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  17. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    The problem with VR be "more blocky" is the res/bitrate allocation is different than the DVD-Video counterpart. Depends on a few factors.

    I saw that the VR mode at 4:10 length made colors too bright, something I did not like.
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  18. I decided to recapture the Blade Runner Criterion laserdisc... this time I processed the video with the Vidicraft Detailer III and the Leitch VPA 331N Proc Amp. JVC DR-M10SL set to FR 1 hour 50 minutes. Here's a couple of frames:








    The Leitch VPA 331N is a very nice piece of pro broadcast gear with excellent image clarity and accuracy. The correction adjustments it has are mild, but adequate for most sources.
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  19. Member ejai's Avatar
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    My hat's off to you, those pictures look great.
    Do unto others....with a vengeance!
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  20. Thanks, ejai!

    I think my settings for the Detailer III were about Detail 1/6 turn and Sharpness 1/4 turn. All I did with the Leitch Proc Amp was to adjust the Setup and Video (black level and luminance gain) so that I had true video black during fade-to-black transitions, and boosted the luma gain up without exceeding the maximium during the brightest scenes. This has the net effect of increasing the contrast.

    I used the luminance meter on my Vidicraft Proc Amp (in Bypass mode) to establish the black level (0% luma) and the peak luma level (100%). I also boosted the Chroma gain up a little bit on the Leitch to enhance the color somewhat. Oh, yeah... the Leitch also has adjustments that allow you to shift the image left or right (that's how I was able to center it).

    Here's a link to the Leitch web page for more info on the VPA 331N:

    http://www1.leitch.com/custserv/products.nsf/$All/B5B6BEE1D08A7F6485256C95005FE092?Open&Family=Synch ronizers%20TBCs%20and%20Proc%20Amps

    It is still available as a new item... mine is a few years old and has a blue faceplate, but is otherwise identical. I really lucked out as the one I got hold of is in like new condition.
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  21. DAMN !!!!

    I recorded 3 programs via timer on DVD-RAM Maxell. I watched on program and deleted it (it was the last program I recorded on the disc). After that the JVC gave a disc error. Now I cannot do anything with the disc. It keeps saying that there's a problem with the disc. I cleaned the disc, I tried to format it. It comes about 50% with formatting and I get the same error again. I have no DVD-RAM on my pc so I cannot format it there. I don't have any other DVD-RAM discs. I checked the disc for scratches but I couldn't find anything.

    What do you suggest me to do next??

    Thanks
    JVC THA30 Home Cinema Set
    JVC DR-M10 DVD Recorder
    Sony XB8AV Hifi Dolby Pro Logic set
    Next ye 2005 Digital Satellite Receiver
    HUTH Analog Satellite Receiver
    Playstation 2 (modded with Messiah 2)
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  22. I've got two nagging problems and some questions that I can't seem to find a fix for with my M10. Anyone help?

    I'm playing with a S9911SU and redcording with M10. I extract the DVD video to my PC to edit using Womble.

    1) When I extract the VOBs from the disc I've burned, I have some kind of artifact at the bottom of the screen. I'm trying to attach a picture so hopefully you'll see what I'm talking about. I'm playing with the 'monitor type' in the Function Setup submenu to see if its just the PC monitor interpreting a different aspect. What format (4:3LB, 4:3PS) is the most 'universally accepted' for burning VHS tapes?



    2) After I've extracted the video and clipped a few things, then encode, the resulting output is a little pixelated and the audio is muffled. I'm extracting in Womble and Ulead and seem to get the same prob. My thought is that its a result of re-encoding the data. Is there a better app or process to extract that 'chapter' without having to re-encode it?

    I'm a frustrated by both of these issues because I can't find a clean answer to them and because I have an anniversary gift I'm putting together and time is running out.

    Any help out there?
    ---Right now I'm having amnesia and deja-vu at the same time. I think I've forgotten this before.
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  23. What you are seeing at the bottom of the frame is normal for VHS. Those last few lines are always smeared like that. However, they are well outside the viewing area of a normal TV. Televisions overscan all video signals to crop the edges somewhere between 4%-7%. You are seeing the entire captured frame because you are using a PC monitor, that's all.

    When you play the finished DVD in a regular DVD player using a standard TV, you'll never see any of the edges, including the stuff at the bottom edge of VHS signals.

    If you are extracting and editing with Womble, there shouldn't be any re-encoding going on (except at edit points that are not at an I frame), unless you are using fancy transitions, adding graphics or music, etc. I'm not sure what Ulead does, but most software editors do re-encode, which is something you don't want to do with MPEG2 source video.

    Once you have edited your MPEG2 in Womble, you should use a DVD Authoring application like TMPGEnc DVD Author to create menus, pick chapter stops, etc. No re-encoding will occur that way.

    There are some professional VCR's that digitally "correct" that lower frame edge smearing with VHS... I've got a JVC SR-W5U and a BR-S378U that do just that. But it is not really necessary because of television overscan.
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  24. Member
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    I have a couple of questions about using the JVC DR-M10.
    1) Regarding the inputs on the JVC:
    You know how, say, on a tv or vcr remote there is a button (labeled sometimes as "tv/video" or "input select") that will take you right to input #1 ?
    Maybe it's slipped by me, but there doesn't seem to be an equivalent button on the JVC's remote ? It would be a little bit of an inconvenience to have to press the channel +/- button multiple times to get to input #1 each time that I wanted to go there. So for the time being I found a workaround. If press "0" on the remote (and then either wait a few seconds or else then press "enter"), the channel changes to input #1.

    2)Regarding "finalizing" the DVD:
    Suppose there's a DVD-R that I am going to use for recording material of similar content. I record something and then, until there is something else that's similar that I want to record onto it, I finalize the DVD-R so that I can watch it on one of the standalone DVD players. And then when there's something else that I want to record onto it, I undo the finalizing.
    The manual says that when you delete something from a DVD-R, you don't recover that space on the DVD-R.
    So, here's my question. I assume that each time that a disc is finalized, some amount of the disc is used to do so. In the scenario above, each time that I finalize and then undo the finalizing, how much space, i.e. how much recordable time, am I permanently losing ?

    3) I don't have a full understanding of deleting content from a DVD-RW.
    I read this thread "Quick erase VS. Full erase !".
    And I've also read what the manual says about recording and erasing:
    "(page 9) DVD-RW (VR mode):
    - Recording and erasing can be performed as many times as possible on a disc.
    - Editing can be performed after recording, such as deleting unwanted parts.
    DVD-RW (Video mode)
    - Can be played back on other DVD players
    - New recording can be performed by erasing all the data on a disc once played back."

    3a) This recorder will be for family use. Suppose someone in the family is going to regularly use a DVD-RW for taping tv shows that aren't going to be kept. Once that disc is filled up, I don't understand what the best method is to do next: use the JVC to format the disc ? Delete each of the shows one by one ? Or do we just proceed to program the timer for another recording and the JVC will (use whatever time is remaining at the end of the disc and then proceed to) record at the beginning of the disc ?

    3b) Starting on page "75" the manual gives instructions for DVD-R, -RAM, & -RW for how to delete and edit content, so why does the information I quote above from page "9" make it sound like there's some difference between -RW (video mode) and -RW (VR mode) when editing and deleting and when one wants to record new material to a DVD-RW that's full ?

    3c) Here's my last question with regard to editing and deleting content on a DVD-RW. Suppose I have several shows recorded to a DVD-RW. There is space left on the disc for recording more material, and of those shows already on the disc, I want to keep them all except for show #2 which is a 20min program. I delete the 20min program, and then the next program I want to record is an hour long program. In that scenario, how is the hour-long program recorded -- will it be like when something is recorded to a hard drive and gradually it becomes more fragmented (over the course of software being installed, deleted, and modified) and in the case of this disc the first 20 minutes of the hour long program will be recorded where the deleted 20min program used to be and the remaining 40minutes of the hour-long program will be recorded in the remaining blank space at the end of the disc ?

    Thank you for your help
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