how to capture lp records to music cd

[robert@75]

Hi I ve got a lot of LPs i want to copy to music CDs Anybody recomend a free download and tell me how they work.

amd 2000xp epox8rda+ with on board sound
I tried to copy with adaptec but i couldnt get it to record to my hard drive
It's a easy program but i t woun't work for me.
What cheap full duplex sound card should i buy?

Thanks Bob

[Tommyknocker]

I would try Gold Wave. I would plug the turntable (how many of your children know what that is ) audio into my line in jack of my PC. Use the Device Controls from Gold Wave to record my audio into the program.

Select Effects-->Filter-->Noise Reduction-->Preset Shapes-->Remove Hiss.

Save each file as an MP3 or wave file. Use your favorite burner to burn your CD with it.

[whomacuddy]

The output of record player is not neccesarily the same level as a line in connector the current is provided by the small magnetic coils or magnets in the pickup which are moved by the stylus , you will need to in such cases have an amplifier capable of picking up Phono signals and relaying them to a line out jack or tape recorder out so that the signal is amplified up to the right level , also the correct equalisation is performed on the signal so that the frequency balance is correct , otherwise you get tinny sound with bass that sounds like a wet flipper

[johns0]

Sound blaster live is a good cheap sound card.

[lacywest]

When you do this ... be sure to consider acoustic feedback.

The vibration from the speakers can work it's way back to the enclosure and then to the platter and tone arm. The needle/cartridge will pickup that vibration and will create a howling noise.

So best to do this with headphones ... to make your copy.

I've owned United Audio turntables ... or as some people knew them ... Dual turntables ... 1219 1218 1015 ... the 1218 was I believe was the last one I owned.

I would buy a Vinyl record ... "Jennifer Rush ... Power of Love" ... Album and first thing I did was record it to HI-FI VCR ... a Scott HI-FI VCR. Cost like $700 bucks ... back in ... 1986. But it also had adjustable audio level controls ... not like todays ... Automatic Gain Control ... audio input.

If you don't know whether acoustic feedback is a problem ... place the needle on the album ... without the album spinning ... and turn up the volume. [might be a switch in the tone arm turning off the audio signal ... so might not work] you will know if you have a acoustic feedback problem ... WWAAAA WWAAAAA WWAAAAA ... and it will get louder !!!

Another thing ... the newest cartridges were Magnetic Cartridges and they needed a preamp to boost the signal. Ceramic Cartridges created a larger signal ... but also caused little by little wear and tear to the groove in the vinyl album.

Might want to try finding a stereo integrated amplifer that has a magnetic phono input and then take the output from the TAPE OUT ... outputs.

Or a stereo preamplifier or even a Stereo Receiver with Magnetic Phono inputs.

[Vintageman]

Also you might want to find a good Audio editing software ( I would recommend Protools free but it only works in 98 ) Like Peak. Alot of the vinyls you have no matter how good they may be in condition will have lots of noise ( pops, crackle etc. ) and you may want to clean them up. Nothing sounds as bad as having a song play loud and have noise. if your going to Cd you might as well make it as clean as possible.

[lacywest]

Send me a PM message ... I can help you with snap crack pop sounds.

I use Cool Edit Pro 1.2 ... works very nicely ... Sound Forge is also good too. I use both together.

Sound Forge shows the signal in real time ... whether your settings are becoming distorted.

Some Direct X plugins need Sound Forge ... so you will know if the signal is be coming saturated [distorted]

Send me a PM message and I will explain more.

For Vinyl snap crackle and pop ... I can help you with an older version.

http://www.jdklein.com/clickfix/features.htm

What technique does ClickFix use to detect clicks and pops?

ClickFix uses a proprietary statistical detection technique to locate clicks and pops. It does not employ edge detection or spectral analysis. This special technique results in much faster, more accurate click and pop detection than other methods.

The method ClickFix uses is equally effective in loud passages and in soft, so there is no need for settings to adjust behavior based on signal amplitude.

With some other click and pop removal tools, you may get better results if you first reverse the waveform before processing. This is not necessary with ClickFix. The ClickFix algorithm is symmetrical. That means that the results will be of equal quality, whether or not you reverse the waveform before applying ClickFix.

It's a good program I use it.

[wwaag]

robert@75

Couple of suggestions.

First, you do need a soundcard. You might consider the Turtle Beach Santa Cruz ($43US). Plus not all of the software "bloat" with Creative products.

Second, you do need software. Rather than very expensive apps like Sound Forge or CoolEdit which is now Adobe, suggest you try Wave Repair (do a Google search for site). It's designed specifically for vinyl restoration--30 day free trial plus only $30 if you buy it. Even if you don't, you can still use the recording app as freeware. I've used it for about 6 months and "restored" around 20 LPs. In addition to all of the "statistical" tools for noise reduction, it also provides a lot of "manual" capabilities for "locating" clicks and then "repairing the wave"--sometimes the best way is to actually redraw the wave yourself rather than relying on statistical interpolations. As an aside, I'd also recommend a set of headphones to aid in click detection--which sometimes, can be the most difficult task.

One final thought--stay away from "restoration" tools in apps such as Nero and Easy CD Creator. They take away noise, but also a lot of your signal. If your're interested in a quality restoration, you'll be disappointed. Hope this helps.

wwaag

[lordsmurf]

SoundForge

[lacywest]

Need a good card ... this one is a nice one ... I would buy it myself but don't need to ... I've got it's cousin or maybe it's older brother.

http://www.pcclub.com/product_detail.cfm?itemno=A5118260

Item No: A5118260
Manufacturer: Creative Labs

Availability: IN STOCK

Price: $35.99*



Creative Labs SB Live! Dolby Digital 5.1

Product Description:
The Sound Blaster® Live!™ brings cinema-quality sound to your movies, music, and games with digital 5.1 clarity. Driven by the powerful EMU10K1™ Digital Signal Processor, you will experience the highest quality sound reproduction with real-time audio and effects.

Features:

Cinema-Quality Sound

Dolby Digital 5.1

EAX® Audio Technology

Real-Time 3D Positional Audio

EMU10K1™ Digital Signal Processor

Customer Reviews:

By TGRUNDVIG on December 30,2003
C.Hill
Sounds like you need to upgrade man. I've never had a problem with this card. I have over 5 friends with it, also never experienced problems with it. Either you just happened to get one from a bad batch or the problem lies between the keyboard and your arms

Awsome soundcard for the price!
By MERUBIN on October 20,2003
This card is great! It only costs $35.99 with great performance. If you're gonna have 5.1 speakers, you gotta get this card.

Great
By TGRUNDVIG on October 09,2003
It's great. You are in a whole new world when you go from onboard to this. It's great.

[lacywest]

Well ... Robert at 75 ... whats up ??

We've been offering you advice ... any feedback as to our feedback would be appreciated.

[jtommyj]

The 8RDA+ has on-board sound that is quite nice.
It's based on the NForce2 chipset just like my Abit NF7-S with line in and Mic in so I don't think you need a Soundcard. It also has a built in EQ so software is probably all he'll need (if he's still in here somewhere !!).

Edit/ Just found the info -

Built-in AC97 Digital Audio (By RealTek ALC650)(8RDA+ only):
Compliant with AC97 2.2 specification
6 channel slot selectable DAC output for multi-channel applications
Supports digital SPDIF
I/O CONNECTOR:
PS/2 Mouse and PS/2 style Keyboard
COM1, COM2, Printer, Audio-in/out, MIC & Game Port by extra Cable

[robert@75]

Wow thanks a lot everybody for the good advice and ifo. Also thanks to Lacywest ill take your advice.

I think my onboard sound has problems because adaptec did record a couple clips then quit. I checked and set all the settings and looked at all my drivers and still no luck. also no audio on MSN MESSENGER.

Ill buy a new card and disable my onboard sound to help me find my problem.

Thanks again Bob