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  1. Member
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    I've never had any use for a router as I've just used a switch for my needs. Never had any issues but I decided to try and setup a wireless connection just to have. Might get an mp3 player one day that will need a wireless connection or a spot in the house where it's not wired there might be a desktop. So, I have a few questions

    1. Will the wireless adapter and wireless router setup have to be the same brand?

    2. Any recommendations on a cheaper model that would do the trick? I've read a myriad of reviews at newegg and it seems they all aren't perfect but I basically want a reliable wireless router and adapter thats solid. Will last a while and won't drop connections (been reading and a lot seem to have this issue).

    3.can the wireless connection in the router be turned "off". i.e...can i turn it off from the hardware or can it be turned off via the routers GUI?

    i'm not a networking guy. I've only done a few in my life but it looks like it won't be too difficult to do. I just don't wanna be RMA'n a crappy setup constantly.

    any thoughts one these models? any other recommendations would be welcomed. I don't wanna really go over $40 for the wireless router.

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166032

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704045

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166041
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  2. Originally Posted by Moontrash View Post
    1. Will the wireless adapter and wireless router setup have to be the same brand?
    No. They just need to support the same wireless protocol, 802.11n, 802.11g, etc. But these days, most support B (slowest), G, and N (fastest).

    Originally Posted by Moontrash View Post
    2. Any recommendations on a cheaper model that would do the trick?
    Since you already have a wired network you can add a wireless access point:

    http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Mbps-Wireless-Easy-N-Upgrader-TEW-637AP/dp/B00134LUE2

    The weakness of that particular access point is the wired port is only 100 Mb/s.

    I've found Trendnet products to be inexpensive and reliable.
    Last edited by jagabo; 4th Apr 2011 at 13:27.
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  3. Banned
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    1. No.
    2. I've got the Linksys E1000. I'm using some various wireless N 150 Mbps adapters with it without any problems. If you intend to run a bunch of 300 Mbps connections of it then it may not be your best choice. It can do 300 Mbps but I've read that it's kind of limited with that. But it runs 150 Mbps connections fine. I recommended it to a friend who is totally not a techie and he got it working without any problems.
    3. I honestly do not know the answer to that. Sorry.
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  4. Mod Neophyte Super Moderator redwudz's Avatar
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    If you have access to the routers configuration screen, you can temporarily disable the wireless radio with most any wireless router.

    Most routers have a base address of 192.168. x.1, where the 'x' is '0' or '1'. You just type that or similar into a internet browser and you will see the configuration screen. Be sure to set a secure password as everyone seems to know the default ones and they could hijack your router.

    But most times you just set it up with strong encryption like WPA-PSK [TKIP] + WPA2-PSK [AES] or set it so just your PCs can see it. That's the wireless access MAC address settings in the router. Then you can leave it on all the time.

    None of this is very complicated and your router configuration screen and the router manual will usually guide you through it.

    EDIT: To add about coverage. Placing your router in a central location, away from most large metal objects like filing cabinets helps. I put mine up about four feet from the floor. If you have a very large house or a two story house or one with metal in the walls, then it gets a bit harder. Your PCs with wireless adapters will show you signal strength.

    I use my wireless router with several switches. I have a gigabit LAN system, so my router is also gigabit.
    Last edited by redwudz; 4th Apr 2011 at 14:35.
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  5. Member
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    basically my setup is as follows

    dsl line (6mb's) -----> modem ----> switch (runs to 3 pc's)...no issues

    i liked the idea of the wireless router because it already contains a "switch (not a router..just a cheapo $10 switch)" so if i needed to turn off the wireless i could and it would still be alright with the lan connections.

    how would hooking up an access point work?...would the line-in into the access point be from the modem itself or just another line from the switch?

    I won't be using any of this for anything advanced...just surfing etc. It would be used minimally at the most.

    what w-routers/access points are the least complicated to use? user-friendly i suppose
    Last edited by Moontrash; 4th Apr 2011 at 14:42.
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  6. Member AlanHK's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Moontrash View Post
    basically my setup is as follows

    dsl line (6mb's) -----> modem ----> switch (runs to 3 pc's)...no issues
    I don't know how that could work.

    You normally use a router to share a net connection with 3 PCs.
    It allocates each device to an IP on your LAN and forwards them to the Internet, and vice-versa.

    I suspect your "switch" is actually a router.
    (Unless the modem has a router built in, as is possible.)

    What model is the switch?
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  7. Lone soldier Cauptain's Avatar
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    All TP-LINK, for me, the best, low price and reliable harwares.

    Router Gigabit

    USB Adapter

    PCI Adapter
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  8. Lone soldier Cauptain's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Moontrash View Post
    basically my setup is as follows

    dsl line (6mb's) -----> modem ----> switch (runs to 3 pc's)...no issues
    Modem routed for 2 or more PCs is very very bad...

    The corrects way;

    MODEM BRIDGE mode - DHCP OFF - IP: 10.1.1.1

    ROUTER PPPOE mode - DHCP ON - IP: 192.168.254.254

    PC-01:
    IP: 192.168.254.100
    SUB-MASK: 255.0.0.0
    GATEWAY: 192.168.254.254
    DNS1: 192.168.254.254
    DNS2: 8.8.8.8

    PC-02:
    IP: 192.168.254.110
    SUB-MASK: 255.0.0.0
    GATEWAY: 192.168.254.254
    DNS1: 192.168.254.254
    DNS2: 8.8.8.8


    PC-03:
    IP: 192.168.254.120
    SUB-MASK: 255.0.0.0
    GATEWAY: 192.168.254.254
    DNS1: 192.168.254.254
    DNS2: 8.8.8.8


    If you have PS3/X360 you get NAT 2 with my schema.
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  9. Member
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    it's just a basic switch...been using it about 6 years. Never had to configure anything with it.

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    This setup with 3 pc's has been going for the last 2 years. 2 pc's for the last 6 years w/o issues.

    I've looked at all brands and TrendNet and Tp Link are ones I'm considering. They seem to be the least amount of issues. They all seem to have their little nuances but headaches seem to be all aprt of it LOL. Is DD-WRT important?

    I don't stream movies...don't xbox...don't ps3 or anything else related to wireless. Just wanna be able to surf.
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  10. Lone soldier Cauptain's Avatar
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    DD-WRT only if you're using more professional...TP-LINK support Firmware DD-WRT.
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  11. Originally Posted by Moontrash View Post
    how would hooking up an access point work?...would the line-in into the access point be from the modem itself or just another line from the switch?
    It connects to the switch.
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  12. The modem does the DHCP/Routing/NAT
    If I read it right, it's an Embarq 660
    http://www.google.com/#sclient=psy&hl=en&safe=off&q=embarq+660+series+manual

    I would get an Access point for wireless, it would be easier.
    Then again you can put most any wireless router in bridge mode, so they don't do DHCP/Routing/NAT
    tgpo famous MAC commercial, You be the judge?
    Originally Posted by jagabo
    I use the FixEverythingThat'sWrongWithThisVideo() filter. Works perfectly every time.
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  13. Member
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    correct..it's a Zyxel Prestige 660...looked in it and it has sumthin in it called DHCP..inside that, its got three columns...Username/pc name...Ip address...MAC address

    I was reading a lot of reviews over at newegg and i noticed quite a lot of them have bridge mode built in...looks liek it has to be done thru the GUI. I'll try and muster my way thru it.

    thanx for your input guys...I now know more now than I did yesterday
    Last edited by Moontrash; 4th Apr 2011 at 21:17.
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  14. Member AlanHK's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by Moontrash View Post
    it's just a basic switch...been using it about 6 years. Never had to configure anything with it.
    I think your modem is also a router.

    This one: http://embarq.centurylink.com/embarq/refDocs/user_guides/internet/HSI_660dhcp_Guide.pdf

    If so, you should see its config page at http://192.168.2.1
    And your password will be "1234" (I.e. the same as your luggage, but doesn't matter much for a wired router)

    They could have had several ports on it for minimal cost and you wouldn't have needed the switch.

    Anyway, with that you can plug an access point into your switch and it should get an IP from the modem/router.

    But a wifi router probably costs about the same and would replace the switch too.

    You could either configure the modem to be just that, or the router to be just a switch ("bridge mode"), because otherwise you end up with two levels of readdressing.
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  15. Member
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    The advice for getting a AP/Bridge was dead on. I ended up getting an Asus n12 wireless router w/ multi functions..it has a switch on the back that lets you choose between..router, Repeater, AP

    Asus N12

    i plugged in the lan cable(that was coming from the switch) i had going to my laptop, moved the switch in the back to "AP" and it booted right up...immediately got 5 bars and access. Got bored and tried installing the DD-WRT fw, dead simple. I set all the WPA2 passwords and..done...couldn't have been easier.

    Thanks for the input. It worked out well.
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