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  1. Originally Posted by Knightmessenger
    It was less than 200. I wanted one that I thought wouldn't need a remote because it has the menu keys on the machine itself. I'm only using it to record stuff from my video camera so I don't need to worry about tv recording.

    Can I still switch it back to normal video mode anyway?
    Under $200 without remote was a decent buy given the current sellers market for these units- assuming it is in good condition, you did well. Most functions are accessible from the front panel, EXCEPT the crucial recording speed selector. As you've discovered yourself, the menu buttons will let you activate custom recording time and adjust it, however it won't let you select standard speeds such as SP- you need the remote for that. Without the remote you can fudge an approximation of standard speeds by setting a similar custom speed using the front panel arrow buttons, i.e. MN21 is similar to SP.

    The front panel buttons WILL let you solve the VR Mode issue. You need to push the Home Menu button, select the Initial Setup option, select the Recording menu, then select the HDD recording format: if it shows VR Mode greyed out and gives the option to "start" Video Mode, do that. You can also switch recording format for blank dvds by going into Home Menu, Disc Setup, Initialize, and again choosing Video Mode instead of VR Mode. (You need to do this once for each type of media you use: DVD-R and DVD-R/W.) When you finish dubbing your camera footage to each DVD-R, be sure to go to Home Menu, Disc Setup, and Finalize to make the disc compatible with most DVD players.

    The remote is not cheap but worth having. It sells for about $35-45 on eBay, and $50-60 new from Pioneer or specialty remote control dealers. The correct remote for your unit is model VXX2967.
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  2. Member PuzZLeR's Avatar
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    I remember when I last researched it, as Orsetto mentions, the remote isn't cheap (I thought I lost mine once...)

    Although getting one from the Mother Source Pioneer is the best option, if you have a tight budget (none of my business just helping) and still want one, take a look at this:
    http://www.amazon.com/Philips-PMDVR8-8-Device-Specialty-Universal/dp/B0000ALPB9

    Apparently it can handle any DVR and has gotten good reviews in some forums, and one person on AVS said it works excellent for his (later model) Pioneer, so I can't see why it wouldn't work on an older model.

    I don't want to guarantee anything, but do a little digging if you like.

    I checked on eBaY as well, and at the time of this writing they were selling at anywhere from $1-$8. Not bad.

    But if I were you I would just buy it a local electronics store chain. If by some chance it doesn't work you always have a legitimate excuse to get a refund conveniently, especially when it promised Pioneer compatibility.
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  3. Member Knightmessenger's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by orsetto
    Without the remote you can fudge an approximation of standard speeds by setting a similar custom speed using the front panel arrow buttons, i.e. MN21 is similar to SP.

    You need to push the Home Menu button, select the Initial Setup option, select the Recording menu, then select the HDD recording format: if it shows VR Mode greyed out and gives the option to "start" Video Mode, do that. You can also switch recording format for blank dvds by going into Home Menu, Disc Setup, Initialize, and again choosing Video Mode instead of VR Mode.
    But I can't use the custom recording mode in regular video mode, right? And I thought I tried to choose video mode for dvd (to switch it back) but it was greyed out.

    Someone mentioned there is a program that would rip my vr mode dvd to my computer and then I could just edit it from there. Would that also enable me to direct rip from any other video dvd?
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  4. Yes, absolutely, you can set manual ("custom") recording speeds in either Video or VR mode, on DVD media or the hard drive. There are one or two minor restrictions/differences concerning ridiculously long recording speeds (like 8 hours on a disc- terrible quality) that don't really matter to anyone.

    You have to look carefully at the setting screens. Often if an option seems greyed out it only means you need to slide over to the next column on the right and select the word "start" or "turn on" to activate or switch to that option.

    Since the recorder seems to be a bit confusing to you as-is, you should probably not risk getting an inexpensive universal remote for it. You really should have the correct Pioneer remote with the model-specific button labels that match the instruction manual. If you can afford it, spend the extra money and get that asap, it will make life easier because there are dedicated speed buttons on the remote that override the menu settings and are easier to use/understand.

    The Phillips universal remote recommended by PuzZLer is a good unit and can be an excellent replacement remote for an original owner who already totally "gets" how the recorder works. But new owners who aren't yet used to Pioneer control conventions should probably try to get exact Pio replacements for any missing remotes to minimize any chance of confusion.
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    Knightmessenger, as a frequent user myself of my DVR, I highly recommend you get a remote to enjoy your unit so much more.

    I can't imagine how I would have gotten even 20% of the recording, editing, programming, burning, etc that I've done in that same amount of time without one all these years. Even if I could perform all functions without it the speed of my workflow would be diminished significantly and would be very inconvenient anyway.

    Whether you go with Pioneer, or with a cheaper universal, you'll be better with one than without one.

    Orsetto, I see your point about having prerequisite knowledge before getting a 3rd party remote. If my remote croaks then I certainly would go with the cheaper model but a new user would indeed be harder pressed with the learning curve and mapping, etc. It depends on how much the savings mean to the new user...
    I hate VHS. I always did.
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  6. Member Knightmessenger's Avatar
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    I double checked and I was right, I couldn't select video mode... until I turned custom recording to Off. Now it says I don't need to initialize the disc to use video mode. (Which is what it should.) But is there any way to be absolutely sure I'm in video mode? Because the letters V and R are lit to the left of the clock.

    The default recording setting is SP which is what I plan on using most of the time so I'm still in pretty good shape without a remote.

    What, again, can I do with my recorded disc that is in VR mode?
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  7. The "V" indicates you have a blank or unfinalized Video-mode disc in the recorder. The "R" indicates its a write-once DVD-R disc. If you see "RW", that would indicate a rewritable DVD-RW disc in the machine.

    Now that you have apparently managed to switch the recorder back to burning standard Video-mode discs, your problem may be solvable. That is, assuming the VR mode DVD you made from your camcorder footage at least plays normally on the Pioneer recorder thru your television- you weren't quite clear on that point. If even the Pioneer that recorded it won't play it on a TV, consider the disc trashed: something went wrong beyond the scope of what we can advise third-hand on a forum.

    If the Pioneer CAN play this problem disc normally, then all you need to do is put it back in the machine, go into the Home menu, select the Copy function, then the DVD-HDD option. This will bring up a screen showing you all the titles recorded on this VR disc. Scroll up or down as necessary and click the enter button on each title you want to copy back to the HDD (all of them one after another is what you likely want, you'll need to select each one separately and be sure to only click enter ONCE for each title). After you've selected everything you want, scroll to the right and select the "next" icon. From that point forward just keep answering "Yes" until the recorder displays a progress screen and starts copying from the DVD drive to the hard drive. It will tell you when its finished, it takes about 10 minutes.

    Once everything is copied to the HDD, take out the VR disc and put in a blank DVD-R. Go back to the Home Menu, return to the Copy function, but this time select HDD-DVD mode. You will then pick the titles off the HDD that you want to put on the DVD, basically reversing the earlier process. As you cycle thru the "next" and "okay" screens, you will notice a "finalize" button on the lower right. Click on it, answer yes, and select a menu style for the DVD. The recorder will begin copying back to the fresh DVD, but THIS time will convert everything to a standard Video-mode finalized DVD-R that should be playable almost anywhere. If you put another blank disc in, the recorder will remember the previous copy list and make an identical copy if you want.

    This sort of thing really requires a sit down with the manual, if you have not done so already get the manual emailed or downloaded, and study it: this recorder is too complicated to operate by guesswork. You really need the remote as well. I have the same unit, most of its operation is pretty simple once you figure out the slightly quirky function screens, but one does need to take a time-out and learn it. (Half the manual is devoted to the idiotic TV Guide On Screen feature, you can skip that whole section if all you plan to do is make DVDs from your camcorder.)
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  8. Member Knightmessenger's Avatar
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    It worked! Yay! Are there any suggestions in general for the video settings? (I've left any noise reduction filters off) The other minor thing is when I inserted the dvd, it didn't automatically load the menu. I had to press play for the feature to start playing and then menu to go to the title screen. Is there a way to fix this in the future?
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  9. Originally Posted by Knightmessenger
    It worked! Yay! Are there any suggestions in general for the video settings? (I've left any noise reduction filters off) The other minor thing is when I inserted the dvd, it didn't automatically load the menu. I had to press play for the feature to start playing and then menu to go to the title screen. Is there a way to fix this in the future?
    Glad to hear it worked! The video settings primarily affect playback and aren't all that effective for recording: in fact unless you're very sure of what you're setting and why, adjusting them can make recordings worse. It is normal for standard finalized video-mode DVDs not to autoplay: generally the player will recognize the DVD but not load the menu until you push the Menu button. Very few, if any, DVD recorders can create DVDs with the auto-start feature (perhaps Toshibas but I haven't heard of any others). Creating an auto-play DVD or auto-loading menu usually requires re-authoring the disc on a computer.
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    Originally Posted by Knightmessenger
    How do I switch it back from VR mode to regular video mode?
    How do I change the video mode recording speed from XP to SP and back? (remember I don't have the remote)
    These are both settable (and changeable) defaults, but I'm not sure if you can get to them easily without the remote. Do yourself a huge favor and get a Pioneer VXX2967 remote. It may be the best remote model they ever made, and well covers the the 53x and 6xx series. I got mine from one of the other online dealers Orsetto alluded to. It might have been Partstore.Com, but enough time has gone by that I'm not sure. It cost me $35. + shipping, which at that time was a few dollars less than Pioneer wanted for it. Right now I see they have it listed for $37.80.
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    The Pio 53x/63x/640s will "auto-play" DVDs if you insert the disc (-R/RW) in the tray and press PLAY, rather than just closing the tray. That will both close the tray and set the home-made DVD to play. Commercial DVDs will play to whatever point they've set them to play.
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    Glad this thread was brought back to life. I have a Pioneer 533 that I purchased on 2/06 and have had problems with the DVD burner from the start. I always had problems with burning to any single layer disc - no matter the brand and figured maybe I should try DL discs. So with the DL discs it worked and for about 2 years now I've been burning stuff to DL disks as well as to single discs which started working, with the occaisional bad burn; I'd say I'd get 2 bad burns out of every 10 - which still suks but I figured better than none at all.

    Lately I can't get it to work with any single layers again and my DL burns are starting to cr@p out. I'm getting the feeling after reading this thread that my burner is bad. I can't believe I got basically less than 2 years out of this thing. It wasn't used for a total of I'd say 9 months when I initially couldn't get it to burn so in reality it's less than 2 years and probably more like a year's worth of service. That's pretty cr@p if you ask me.

    Anyway good to know others have had the same problem and that I'm not crazy and that it seems to be an issue with these machines but it's frustrating to know that this piece of equipment would have this kind of problem for so many.
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    It's been awhile since I had my 531, but have you tried a factory reset and set your clock manually and DST Off? Might be worth a try cuz lots of timing going on in a DVDR and the change in DST rules messes with the rules in older FW, causing many "odd" problems most people wouldn't associate with time or timing issues.
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  14. Member Knightmessenger's Avatar
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    Originally Posted by orsetto
    The video settings primarily affect playback and aren't all that effective for recording: in fact unless you're very sure of what you're setting and why, adjusting them can make recordings worse.
    I'm pretty familiar with what video and audio adjustments do. In fact my film class this week focused on color correction. Which I already know a lot about. With the recorder, my first recordings looked washed out with very little dynamic range. It also had a lot more compression than I was expecting for SP mode. I had used the 7.5 IRE which made the picture darker. This time, I tried setting that to zero (which actually made the picture brighter) and then boosted the white level, decreased the black level, increased the gamma and saturation. I think the zero IRE by itself would make the picture more washed out but these other settings don't appear as dark and murky.
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    @Fano3: Sorry to hear of your difficulties. These older Pioneer units, although amazing machines when they work, have fits of flakiness particularly with failing burners.

    Did you try a disc cleaner by the way? It has completely cleared my similar problem. I'm not saying it's a permanent solution, but it should extent the functionality of your machine at least another few months, maybe years. I know you had this problem from the start, but even new machines can have dirty lens.

    The one that worked for me was from Maxell with a brush on the disc.

    Another thing I can suggest is, since you get roughly 80% good burns, use RW media to migrate content to your PC. I personally find it better re-processing, re-editing, re-authoring and re-burning directly from the PC anyway. As well, you won't create a bunch of coasters this way. You will know a bad burn from a good one.

    And if you have NeroVision, you don't need to finalize the disc from your DVR. Using the "Import disc" function it will find the files and load them to your hard drive for you.
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    @wabjxo - Thanks - yeah, I have DST off and manually set the clock. And I've done the factory reset as well.

    @Puzzler - I'm totally going to try the Maxell cleaner...hopefully that will lead to some kind of resolution...at least for a little while. And thanks for the tip with the RWs...I'll give it a shot. Thanks for all the good tips to try. Much appreciated.
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  17. Member Knightmessenger's Avatar
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    I think I understand most of the video settings. I know adding sharpness and any noise reduction is to be avoided. But I don't understand what the 3D Y/C separation between motion and still does. (I do know Y/C stands for luma and chroma) Right now, I'm specifically looking to copy a vhs tape of a soccer game I recorded 8 years ago with my Hi8 camcorder. Although it's only second generation, the picture quality is not very good since it was recorded in EP mode and the EDIT function on the camcorder that preserves more of the dub quality was not turned on.
    So what does Y/C separation do and what do you think would be best for this situation?
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  18. Since you have some training and know the effect you're looking for, just experiment until the resulting test recordings are as close to what you want as the unit can achieve. The consensus of most Pioneer users who've bothered with the settings is that the Y/C 3D is the least obvious of the adjustments- meaning its difficult to tell what if any effect it has.

    It may be that particular adjustment is only effective when faced with a very specific signal defect, so experimenting is the only way to find out. I have noticed my Pioneer 531 occasionally exhibits an odd motion artifact when encoding various random TV shows: say in a medium-close shot of a person, if they move their head quickly the movement briefly appears "animated", the overall head shape moves first and then a split-second later the facial features "catch up" to the head. Its a weird effect and hard to catch, but every now and then if I'm paying attention I notice. Maybe the 3D Y/C setting helps with something like that? I'll have to try one day when I have time to really dig into it.
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    But I don't know what I'm supposed to be looking for with the 3d Y/C. I'm really frustrated with the recorder with how the dvd's are turning out. I feel that everything is either too bright or too dark or there is little contrast at all depending on how I use the level settings. So I'm getting no midtones. The color is extremely washed out even with the saturation set to max.
    What does gamma do?

    The main problem is that the whites are clipping much more than they did on the original tape. I don't know if this has to do with the IRE setting. I had it at the brighter 0 because when it was at 7.5, everything was too dark. Which one is correct?

    I have gotten better levels and color with a transfer to vhs using my vcr.
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    Originally Posted by orsetto
    Since you have some training and know the effect you're looking for, just experiment until the resulting test recordings are as close to what you want as the unit can achieve. The consensus of most Pioneer users who've bothered with the settings is that the Y/C 3D is the least obvious of the adjustments- meaning its difficult to tell what if any effect it has.

    It may be that particular adjustment is only effective when faced with a very specific signal defect, so experimenting is the only way to find out. I have noticed my Pioneer 531 occasionally exhibits an odd motion artifact when encoding various random TV shows: say in a medium-close shot of a person, if they move their head quickly the movement briefly appears "animated", the overall head shape moves first and then a split-second later the facial features "catch up" to the head. Its a weird effect and hard to catch, but every now and then if I'm paying attention I notice. Maybe the 3D Y/C setting helps with something like that? I'll have to try one day when I have time to really dig into it.
    I've seen this effect with a source that was a commercial DVD I was playing back on a Sony PS2 connected to the Pio 531 via S-Video. I had first RIPPED the DVD then made a copy of it to remove all copy protection. I was using it as a high quality source (yet a very dark source) to see how well the Pio would record it. In short it was an experiment. I noticed the effect and the only way I could get rid of it was to lower both video noise reduction options to "off" or "all the way to the left". I've always left the Y/C 3D thing to the middle as changing it here made no difference so I figured I'd just leave it in the "default" middle position.

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  21. Member Knightmessenger's Avatar
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    I moved the Y/C once to the left because the tape had a lot of motion (soccer game from a handheld camera). Very hard to tell the difference with that setting although I did slide it back and forth with the THX test from my Phantom Menace dvd. The last test with the dots, color blocks and lines had the dots appear smaller and not bleed as much when it slid all the way left (toward motion).

    It's the white clipping that's really the problem.
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    I own a Pioneer DVR-420H that may have a failing burner(DVR-107XA). I still have the factory 80Gb HDD
    installed and it has about 30 hrs [EP] remaining. Could use some feedback on things to try. Do you
    think that this is a hardware issue or something more?

    It will successfully burn/finalize DVD-R media.

    Results with DVD-RW vary. Somtimes it works and sometimes not. The variety is in the NOT results. It
    always completes the copy cycle as if it worked. Never an error message. A peak with disk navigator
    [DN] always shows the expected view, but sometimes the thumbnails are blank (black). In those cases the
    disk will not play. It acts as if the drive can't find the selection on the disk and reverts back to
    the tuner. Other times the thumbnail images are there and the disk will play at this stage.

    Next comes the finalization stage. Here it gets a little more interesting. Sometimes it finishes with
    standard completion message. Other times finalization flat out fails. In the cases where it thinks its
    successful ... it isn't always. A peak with [DN] sometimes shows a finalized menu other times shows an
    unfinalized view. This is never predictable. Just because it finishes successfully doesn't mean it did.
    It has produced disks that will not play on the 420H or other standalone DVD players. However, they
    will play on my PC DVD R/RW, PC R/RW/RAM and my Panasonic (DVD-RAM). So I looked at the file structure
    of a so-called finalized -RW with my PC and it is exactly like a DVD-RAM (DVD-RTAV folder with
    VR_MANGR.IFO and VRMOVIE.VRO files).

    This got me wondering about what actually happens during the finalization step to make a DVD
    compatible. An unfinalized DVD is not viewable with Windows Explorer, so I'm not sure what it looks
    like. A typical DVD has AUDIO_TS and VIDEO_TS folders with bup, ifo & vob files ... pretty standard
    stuff. A finalized DVD with multiple programs (titles) basically has a fileset for each title (bup, ifo
    and vob). A DVD-RAM has 2 files as mentioned above. The smaller file manages the location of multiple
    titles in the larger file. Does this mean the the raw DVD is in a RAM format and finalization breaks it
    down to standard DVD?

    I am using -RW media that is a couple of years old and am going to get some fresh disks to see if that
    helps. I've also used a disk with the lens cleaning brushes ... didn't seem to help. I've read about
    burner replacement ... if you have replace the board is it necessary to match a 107 or A07 with same or
    will an 106, 109 or other work?
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  23. Do not use well-worn DVD-R/W media in your Pioneer 420: it puts a strain on the laser assembly and doesn't burn well, as you have seen. DVD-R/W does not really live up to its promise of "eternal eraseability" and should not be used that way, especially in recorders that cannot be easily repaired. Its a good idea to keep a dated set of fresh R/W discs and rotate them. After 20-30 burns discard or recycle them: that really is the limit of their reliable life when used in older recorders.

    The 420 requires a DVR-107 or DVR-A07 PC burner: these are the only models that can swap controller boards with the 420's original burner. Another alternative is to purchase a "dead" donor recorder from eBay or Craigs List: the model 220, 225 and 320 without hard drives have a tendency to blow their power supplies and often sell for as little as $20-40 in "non-working" condition. Usually their burners are still good and can be easily swapped into a 420 or 520 hard drive machine.
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    Hi apicella,
    is there an end to the story?
    I am also having problems with my 533, but only with DVD-RWs. It will only write them once, as long as they're new. Once written they cannot be deleted, initialized, rewritten whatsoever.
    Will try the cleaning disc thing and report what happens.
    Else I will go and buy a DreamBox. F... Pioneer, I spent hours and hours with the support line, just to hear that I have to bring-in the device to the next shop which is 50 miles away.
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  25. bomberjo, your frustration is understandable, but DVD/HDD recorders do not last forever: average lifespan of all brands combined is about two and a half years. Every mfr had good models and bad models, in Pioneers case they had just the one year of bad models but they were SO bad they nearly sank the company and are known to this day as the most troublesome machines ever sold: the 531-533-633. That yours has actually continued to work for four years without repairs is nothing short of a miracle: again, I sympathize with your disappointment that its failing but try to appreciate you did get twice as much life from your 533 than most other owners (of any recorder).

    Pioneer will not be able to fix it, don't even bother with a service center. The 2005 x30 models are so poorly designed and have so much sample-to-sample motherboard variation that even Pioneer gave up trying to repair them (near the end of their original warranty period Pioneer routinely exchanged them for the brand new and far better 640 model- it was cheaper than trying to fix the x30). Scroll back to the second page of this thread for instructions on how you can replace the burner yourself: you need a good working second-hand Pioneer DVR-109 or DVR-A09 PC burner, these can be found on eBay for around $20-30 US. You would remove the old burner from the recorder, open both burner casings and swap the green controller boards. Put the new burner with the old board back in the recorder, and the recorder will usually (90% of the time) assume nothing has changed and begin working normally with the new burner. In rare cases, it might request you load a service disc or show "ERR" on the front panel, at which point you could either give up or follow instructions in other threads here to obtain the service disc.

    This is only worth trying if the recorder is unable to burn any type of disc at all: since your problem is currently limited to -RW media I suggest backing up everything on your HDD to -R media immediately. This way if the burner fails altogether, or attempts at service are unsuccessful, you won't lose any recordings. One factor people refuse to accept is that every one of these recorders was designed to a price: even the $400-600 DVD/HDD machines have fatal compromises in design and limitations on certain features. Among these limitations is RW use on older HDD-equipped recorders: the mfrs assumed you don't need to use -RW, because you have the HDD for any "eraseable" tasks. Heavy use of -RW on older HDD-equipped machines will result in accelerated death of the burner. If you're in the habit of making an RW disc in the recorder, then ripping it to your PC and erasing it for reuse in the recorder knock it off. It may seem logical to you, but the mfrs didn't expect people to do that and the burners in the HDD models can't handle it. Stick to -R on older units, preferably 8x instead of 16x. If you want temporary offline storage to remain available for HS lossless transfer back to the Pioneer HDD, format a few -R discs as "VR" in the disc setup window. These will function just like RW except they can only be used once. Its not as efficient or "green" as using RW, but it beats killing your recorder completely.
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    Originally Posted by fano3
    Glad this thread was brought back to life. I have a Pioneer 533 that I purchased on 2/06 and have had problems with the DVD burner from the start. I always had problems with burning to any single layer disc - no matter the brand ... Lately I can't get it to work with any single layers again and my DL burns are starting to cr@p out. I'm getting the feeling after reading this thread that my burner is bad.
    Yes, previously I did have a few problems with high-speed copies to DVD-Rs on my DVR-530H but I've never had any problems with VR mode DVD-RWs. I used to blame the brand of disc for any copy error failures, however, lately most of my DVD-R high-speed copies have failed almost as soon as the copy starts (there's a small amount of data written to the disc but most of the disc is still blank). Anyway, someone on another Forum suggested doing edit cuts to a COPYLIST instead of to the original HDD program and amazingly, this seems to work for my particular machine (I've done about 10 copies so far without a failure). So in my case, perhaps the burner is still OK and the fault lies somewhere else.
    Postscript. Oops... I spoke too soon. I just had a COPYERR when I tried to copy a COPYLIST to a DVD-R. Fortunately I was able to copy it to a DVD-RW. So it's back to the old drawing board. Still, 1 failure out of 11 burns is better than 11 failures. So I'll persist with using a COPYLIST to do my edit cuts.
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    To ZZUCRU (see Post Sep 11 2008):

    Blank thumbnails and unplayable programs means that the data on the DVD-RW somehow became corrupt. About the only thing to do is to reinitialise the DVD-RW (or if your DVD-RW has been initialised in VR mode, DELETE the programs on it) and try the copy again. (These days I always do a quick scan through my "Successfully Completed" DVD-RW copy disc before I remove the original HDD program after some bad experiences with my older DVR-510H which is even less reliable than my DVR-530H).

    A DVD_RTAV folder with VR_MANGR.IFO and VR_MOVIE.IFO files indicates that the DVD-RW was initialised in VR mode instead of Video Mode. This is why the disc won't play on other DVD players and why you can only access the disc through Disc Navigator. The disc really has been finalised but you need to have software on your PC that can read VR mode discs. (Incidentally, if you hadn't finalised the disc, WINDOWS EXPLORER will display the disc as a blank CD instead of a DVD_RTAV Folder). I'm not sure why some of your discs are initialised in Video Mode and why some are in VR mode ... perhaps your default initialisation and COPY MENU settings have been changed accidentally ???

    I like VR mode because I only have to initialise and finalise the DVD-RW ONCE. After I've finished with the data (ie. after I've transferred it to a PC), I only have to DELETE the programs through Disc Navigator to reclaim the space. I can also do some basic edits on VR mode discs using Disc Navigator whereas you can't edit a Video Mode disc (other than change the TITLE and THUMBNAIL).
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