I just bought a Acer ATC-UC22 and from the reviews I've read that it gets choppy when trying to play a movie in 1080p.
I'm adding this as part of my media center and I want to be able to play/rip/burn blurays ect... but I just need to add a new graphics card that and power supply.
Problem is I'm not sure how to make sure they are compatible and what would be a decent pair for not a arm and a leg.
Thanks in advance
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Hi
I believe Acer ATC-UC22 is very enough for playing 1080p content. Play your file with Potplayer or Mpc-HC and you wont get any
choppy playback.
So you dont need to buy a new graphics card or a power supply .
For ripping bluray disc , you will need to buy a bluray drive like this one :
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-BW-12B1ST-BLK-G-AS-Black-SATA-Internal-Blu-ray-Burner-/32...item4ae4530a23 -
A quick glance at the specs for that PC showed a 200W power supply, 4 GB RAM, a single hard drive and a DVD drive.
If you plan to add a second or more hard drive (Which I would recommend), and especially if you need to upgrade the video card, I would add a 400W - 500W quality power supply by a major brand. You can usually find them on sale.
Adding a Blu-ray burner would probably be OK with a 200W PS, but that PS may be overrated. If it runs hot, it won't last. It also may not have enough additional connections required for future upgrades.
I would also up the RAM to 8 GB.
Also, unless you are a fan of Windows 8.1, you might add in a inexpensive program like Start8 or similar to make the OS work like Windows 7.
I am not a fan of 8.1 unless it's in a touch screen PC. -
Thanks guys
I'm still awaiting it's arrival in the mail but as soon as it gets here, Windows 7 64 Bit is going on it. I hate Windows 8.
the 200w Power supply is what worries me....I have a external Blu-ray burner but I want to make sure I will have enough power for future upgrades. Not sure how to choose one that will not ruin the motherboard and that will fit.
My plan today is to order a better graphics card and a new power supply so that I'll have them ready to go once the PC arrives in the next couple of days.
I do plan on upping the RAM soon too
If you guys can explain what to look for that shows it's compatibility with my computer than my shopping can continue. -
Wait until you have the PC before you buy either a graphics card or a power supply. You need to make sure the PC accepts a standard power supply before investing in either the power supply or a graphics card. The 200W PSU supplied by the manufacturer may not be a standard ATX model. You also need to see how much room is available for a graphics card.
You may be fine even if it turns out you cannot install a discrete graphics card. My HTPC (see my computer details) has a lower spec CPU and worse onboard graphics than yours and yet still managed to play rented Blu-Ray discs smoothly using PowerDVD Ultra when I had a Blu-Ray drive installed. Yes, I did enable hardware acceleration for video playback whenever possible. -
Ok. I received the computer and it looks like it has plenty room for upgrades. Lots of extra slots on the motherboard. Now, can someone please tell me how to pair a new stronger power supply? I want one strong enough to handle a second harddrive, 32 gb of ram and new graphics card.
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Computer came with 4gb of ram and extra 3 slots for ram so I figure I might buy 4 8gb sticks...sooner or later...
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As long as you are certain that a standard ATX power supply is compatible, I have been thinking about buying this PSU: http://www.directron.com/as500.html
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Just buy a 750w quality power supply such as antec,corsair etc.
I think,therefore i am a hamster. -
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It looks like Antec switched from FSP to mostly Delta Electronics although I still see some FSP built units.
Point is all those brand PS companies actually use only a few manufacturers including FSP. They generally do not produce their own PS they are mostly into marketing.
http://whirlpool.net.au/wiki/psu_manufacturers
What is important is the 80+ specification. Gold and platinum are obviously advised. -
You guys are getting carried away. The OP has not mentioned playing video games, or any other GPU-intensive activities, only ripping, burning, and playing Blu-Ray discs. This is an HTPC. A 500W PSU is adequate for the kind of video card that is usually installed in an HTPC. Nobody wants to hear the fan noise from a high-end video card while watching a movie.
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More power means more heat. More heat means more cooling (i.e. spinning fans - noise). The Geforce GTX 750ti series is the fastest graphic card without an requiring additional power from the PSU. It is a very solid performer. See link below to match your price range.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-graphics-card-review,3107.html -
If the OP wants a cool, quiet video card that costs less than a GTX 750Ti, there is this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150711
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Thanks. Yeah, I'm not looking to make A gaming PC. I'm going to look at reviews for both of those and hopefully get a good deal off ebay. Will they both for sure work on my PC? Sa me question applies for the power supply. I'm not sure what a ATX type is.
I'll look at buying a 750 watt if it's not too much money.
Given I only paid 280 for this pc, not wanting to spend a ton on each single part unless it'll be worth it. Figured since I paid a low price, I got a beater machine? -
Another thing to mention is, I have a 7.1 surround so as long as noise isn't too loud, I think I'll be alright with a little noise.
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"ATX" or "ATX12v" is a typical desktop power supply. The physical dimensions must fall within a certain range, and screw hole positions for mounting, motherboard power connectors, voltages, etc. must comply with a standard. Pre-built PCs usually do use standard ATX power supplies these days, but not always. I did see one recent pre-built PCs that used non-standard power connections for the motherboard. In that case, it was necessary to buy replacements from the manufacturer.
Sometimes manufacturers use a different form factor (usually smaller) than a standard ATX with the screws in a different position to fit a small or slim case. These PSUs are usually low-power models. -
750W is major overkill and a waste of money for your applications, IMO.
The PC in my computer details runs a 600W modular PS with 5 hard drives, 3 optical drives, 4 120mm PWM case fans, a Nvidia GT610 graphics card,
and a water cooled 125w CPU. And the PS and the computer runs cool and very quiet.
I would stick with a 500W good name brand PS at around $40 - $60 US. I would also recommend a modular PS, just to make wiring easier.Last edited by redwudz; 28th Feb 2015 at 17:02.
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When you go to install the video card you may have to go into the bios and enable legacy boot and disable safeboot. I had to do this when I upgraded my on board video card. If you don't like Windows 8.1 you can install Classic Shell or similar program to make it more like Windows 7. MS is going to offer Windows 10 as a free upgrade for Windows 7 and 8.1 user when it goes final. This offer is supposed to be for 1 year after Windows 10 goes final.
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Wow, that's impressive. all of that running on a 600W. I guess 750 would be "overkill" I will look into what you suggested.
To get the dimensions right, I'll have to open it up and measure it then I guess. $40-$60 is really all I want to spend for something like that too.
Honest opinion from everyone, am I just wasting money trying to add on to a junk computer is this a decent one? I have tough skin, so don't worry about insulting my PC -
Thanks man, I'll def read this again once I get the card ordered and ready to install. If I can find that GTX 750 TI for a good deal on ebay, I'm going to buy it. Has some pretty good reviews. All video cards are supported as long as my mother board has the extra slots right?
Do you think I'll be able to get that free upgrade even thought my ACER did not come with a windows sticker on the side. ( I thought that was weird) Most my other PCs always have a sticker with the license code. I wrote down the license code down from the properties screen and now just need to figure out how to make a recovery cd on 8 to be able to go back. then I'll be ready to install my windows 7 -
Yes you will be able to get the upgrade. The Windows key is now imbedded in the bios so no sticker is needed. If you ever had to reinstall windows 8 you could use any Windows 8 install media as long as it's the same version and Windows will read the key and activate on it's own. Or at least that's how it's supposed to work. Most if not all computers today don't use the standard bios. They use UEFI. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-8/what-uefi
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A USB stick is perfect. You never know when you may need it. Classic Shell will make Windows 8 more like Windows 7 and it's free. There are other similar programs you may like better. Windows 10 is closer to Windows 7 Than Windows 8 ever was. In my opinion MS should have bypassed Windows 8 and waited for Windows 10.
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You don't need that much graphics card in an HTPC. The onboard Radeon 8670D is easily enough for Blu-ray playback. Anybody who had problems simply had something misconfigured. The only reasons for a GTX 750 would be gaming (which you've already ruled out) or GPU assisted reencoding of your Blu-ray rips.
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I agree. I have a passive cooled GPU with heatsink only (Radeon 6450 in my computer details). I think it was around $30 bucks with rebate. No problems with BD playback.
If you're not gaming, any current PCIe graphics card will do the job. Onboard Radeon 8670 will do as well.
[EDIT] I should add: I have a 550 W PSU, but it's a good one, rated bronze. Got a fair number of drives in this computer, too. Beware of cheap ones that only reach their rated power at peak output, if then, and cannot sustain it.
There are online calculators that can help you find out just how much power you need. Cooler Master has one, for instance:
http://www.coolermaster.outervision.com/PSUEngine
The metal ratings (bronze, gold, platinum), have to do with power efficiency. Get at least a bronze.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus
It's my understanding that PSUs are most efficient at 50% to 75% load. Less efficient at higher load, and very much less efficient at lower load. So if you buy a PSU rated at more than double what a PSU calculator says is your minimum, you're wasting your money.Last edited by fritzi93; 28th Feb 2015 at 21:27.
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