Drive not burning dual layers anymore

[WinSpecToR]

Well I'm just about ready to get a new drive, up until a few days ago my drive burns fine, and all of a sudden it stopped burning dual layers. When it fails, it would fail between 10-50% and when it does complete, there are different rings on the bottom of the disc. I've tried it on a different os as well as 2 types of discs. is it time for a new one? I also tried to reflash the firmware since there was no new firmware to update to.

[redwudz]

You could try one last thing, cleaning the laser lens. A Q-tip wetted slightly with some isopropyl or denatured alcohol applied to the laser lens would be one thing to try.

But considering the cost of optical drives, even with the price increases lately, a new drive may be a good option. Especially if you've had the drive for a couple of years. Electronics longevity is not really the norm anymore. DL, especially at higher burn rates, takes a bit more power than older SL drives and may shorten the lives of some drives.

Maybe give cleaning a try, but if it doesn't help, then consider replacing the drive.

[WinSpecToR]

Actually I tried using one of those cleaning disc and it didn't do anything.

The other day I bought the same brand, different model and I was still having problems... so maybe I'll try a different brand. What puzzles me is why the new drive wouldn't work.

An additional note, I also tried to burn at different speeds on the old drive and it just wasn't happening.

[redwudz]

What brand, model do you have and which one did you try as a replacement? Someone here may be familiar with those exact devices.

Also what program are you using to burn with? Older programs may not be updated for your burner.

[budz]

It would also helpful if you filled out your computer details under your member ID. As redwudz suggested post the brand and model of your drive. Also please post the brand of dual layer media that you're using. For dual layer media the best brand to use is VERBATIM. If you're using any other brand that is probably why you're having failed burns.

[WinSpecToR]

My original model was Samsung something... the replacement I tried was a
Samsung SH-S223F. I will be trying an LG replacement.

I'm using imgburn and nero as my burning programs.

These dual layers I only plan on using once or twice so I don't plan on using verbatim on them. I used TDK and memorex DLs, now before we start agruing before quality, I've burnt about 30-40 without any problem so the discs are fine.

[budz]

My original model was Samsung something... the replacement I tried was a
Samsung SH-S223F. I will be trying an LG replacement.

I'm using imgburn and nero as my burning programs.

These dual layers I only plan on using once or twice so I don't plan on using verbatim on them. I used TDK and memorex DLs, now before we start agruing before quality, I've burnt about 30-40 without any problem so the discs are fine.

You've already solved your own problem with the response you just gave. Without even trying a VERBATIM Dual Layer disc you've automatically thought the dvd burner was the problem. Sure it could have been but IMHO the odds are it's the brand of DL media you're using. If you had used VERBATIM DL media and the problem still existed then I could say maybe it's the drive. But it seems you have your mind set on using cheap low quality dvd media which by all means is your choice. Nuff said!

[lordsmurf]

You're using known-crap/unreliable media. Problem solved.

[redwudz]

I have a couple of those Samsung SH-S223Fs and no problems with either and I burn DL (Verbatim) discs all the time.

[lacywest]

Verbatim ... are the ones to use ... I did buy some Ridata ... once ... years ago and got no where with them but my method of burning DL back then was ... not good.

And since then I've got better software to burn with.

I actually get good results using CloneDVD to make a DVD9 iso image and then I use Cyberlink Power2Go ... not Imgburn.

Since DVD burners are cheap ... you could buy a new one. But you could if it is possible ... actually open it up and see if the rubble spindle is dirty and gunky ... cleaning it with Q-Tips and alcohol will do wonders.

That is what I do for my table top DVD Recorders.

[WinSpecToR]

Come on, lets not start with the Verbatim vs other media again. I've never had any problems with these discs.

[budz]

Come on, lets not start with the Verbatim vs other media again. I've never had any problems with these discs.

Then I guess you'll be going through many different brands of dvd burner since you think your low quality DL media will work for you. Think again dude...this isn't something that is just told to you by members at this forum....go to MYCE.com in the media forum and post what you wrote in this thread...I guarantee you'll get the same responses! BTW that forum site was formally CDFREAKS.COM. good luck man cuz you gonna need it.

[filmboss80]

Good grief! The most likely solution (media) is dropped into the OP's lap, and the advice is rejected. Countless people on this forum will testify through loads of experience that Verbatim DVD+R DL is the most consistently reliable dual layer media. Oh sure, you may get a few discs in TDK and Memorex batches to work, but not often enough to justify the cheaper price.

No one decided to simply favor one brand over the other. This finding is based on broad, long-term, mass EXPERIENCE.
Argue all you want, but reality is reality.

[lowellriggsiam]

I had issues with burning DL discs, but I solved it by dropping the burn speed down.

[MOVIEGEEK]

I had issues with burning DL discs, but I solved it by dropping the burn speed down.

That's a good point, I have to use 2.4x on my Lite-On writers.
Redwudz comment on writer quality is spot on, most writers sold nowadays are rebadged Lite-On's and they suck for DL. They use sub-par controllers which can't find a perfect write strategy(OPC).

Six years ago you could walk into any retail store and you knew what media you were buying:
TDK = MXL or TY(high quality)
Fuji = TY(high quality)
Verbatim = MCC(high quality)
SONY = SONY(high quality)
Now it's all PRODISC or CMC crap.

[Undead Sega]

Sorry for bringing up a slightly old thread but for the past few months ive realised that i am anot able to burn DL DVDs anymore, i have an LG GSA-H54L ad it could burn any discs, even the cheapo ones, however it has been awhile sionce ive done Dl burning before i discovered the problem, this was after ive upgraded to Win7 x64.

I first did the burning with Nero, which ultimately failed halfway through, this suprised me at first after trying it out with 2 DVDs that failed, it came to my realisation that people would use ImgBurn as they say it knows where the layer break is. So aftrer awhile obtaining a couple more DVD DLs a few weeks later i tired it with Imgburn, and to my big suprise, it failed as well, i thought it was just bad luck but even after when i got more DVDs the same thing happens, and this confuses and worries me at the same time, all of this ive done at slow speed just to inform you.

Ive only read here and there and it might have to do something with the DMA and PIO mode? Im not sure, but when i went to my device manager, its a completely different story are on the IDE/ATA drives section, there are many to choose from, its like of there was 3 for each drive.

I really want to get back into burning DVD DLs once again, does anyone know what could be the problem? i would really appreciate it.

[budz]

use the nero tool to figure out which is your dvd burner drive. if you're using cheapy DL media there's ur problem. if you're using Verbatim DL media along with IMGBURN and it fails as well. then ur drive prolly is dying a slow death.

[turk690]

It always pays to keep an open mind equally about which could be at fault here: drive or DL disc. Having used Verbatim, TDK, and Princo garbage, I can attest that Verbatim wins the day. If I can get it. Where I am it's not easy to find. We are awash here in Memorex and Sony (Made in India). That said, it seems Verbatim media really does make the drive work beyond the point where it would have long ago mangled, say, a Ritek DL disc. Whatever the brand, because I regularly use DVD+R DL, when the drive starts making corrupt discs, it's always time to chuck it. I'd say the longest I was with one was about 23 months (LG 4167), the shortest was 11 months (LiteOn iHap322). The LiteOns are particularly notorious for hanging the recording at the layer break. It can come with no warning: on a 100-disc run, everything is fine; except the 100th disc, which will be corrupt. I commiserate with winspector when he says a batch of non-Verbatims do indeed record well, then suddenly goes awry on the nth disc. On the other hand, Winspector, if you insist on that non-Verbatim media, heed suggestions to replace the drive.
I realize that, as a technician, it's easy to replace drives. It's not that some do not want to consider replacing a $20 DVD-rewriter, but that non-techies balk at the thought of opening their PCs up to do so, or to pay for the service at their friendly PC corner shop...

[Undead Sega]

I know which is my DVD burner drive, i have two and only one of them can do DL burning. As i have said before i have used cheap DL DVDs with success a few times, i'll probably just buy one Verbatim DL DVD to see what is really the problem, but ive wasted alot of those DL DVDs and all have the same problem, usually each of them would differ slightly but that wasnt the case at all as it seems.

I doubt its dying, i havent used it hardcore (probably twice in its 2.5 years life), they are both IDE connected.

Could Win7 affect any of wat ive described? PIO mode or somethnig?

[[_chef_]]

Nope....

If your burner is IDE/PATA it requires an 80conductor cable connected and DMA enabled to function properly.
In case of media you wont find anythingbetter than Verbatim & TY/JVC in case of DL.

If your burner is SATA then there is nothing about PIO or DMA, the most important point is the SATA controller used and its proper setup...

[[_chef_]]

My original model was Samsung something... the replacement I tried was a
Samsung SH-S223F. I will be trying an LG replacement.

I'm using imgburn and nero as my burning programs.

These dual layers I only plan on using once or twice so I don't plan on using verbatim on them. I used TDK and memorex DLs, now before we start agruing before quality, I've burnt about 30-40 without any problem so the discs are fine.

BTW, that are doiuble layer discs (DVD+R DL) nd not Dual layers, which are DVD-R DL......

[Undead Sega]

My drives are connected with an Asus 80conductor cable and mroe or less functions properly, as i said before they were able to write DVD DL's before, but they are failing promptly I bet i could go to my old PC with the black Sony DVD drive with XP installed and still burn onto a cheap DVD DL

[budz]

My drives are connected with an Asus 80conductor cable and mroe or less functions properly, as i said before they were able to write DVD DL's before, but they are failing promptly I bet i could go to my old PC with the black Sony DVD drive with XP installed and still burn onto a cheap DVD DL

80 wire IDE cables will fail over time. Best thing is to buy a new 80 wire IDE cable and if you still have failed burns with DVD DUAL LAYER media then your drive is failing.

[MOVIEGEEK]

I agree with budz and I will add just because you have only used a drive twice in 2.5 years doesn't mean it's still ok, I've had drives fail after three months.
There is one sure fire way to see if the laser or controller is failing...burn a CD and SL DVD, if they burn ok then the media is bad. If the SL fails then the DVD laser is dying.

[Undead Sega]

I see, they dont make them as they used to dont they?

Regarding the cable, would a quality one be any superior to any other generic cable? and from that would it make any difference?

[redwudz]

Most 80 conductor cables are about the same. I have seen problems with a few of the cheaper 'round cables', but that's pretty rare. I would unplug your present cable and replug it, or just replace it and see if that helps. I would also check your burner to see that the jumper is correctly set as Master or Slave as that can cause odd problems.

[budz]

I see, they dont make them as they used to dont they?

Regarding the cable, would a quality one be any superior to any other generic cable? and from that would it make any difference?

80 wire IDE rounded cable, 99 cents, can't get it cheaper than that.

http://www.svc.com/md-24-ata-3bu.html

[Undead Sega]

hmmm thats a nice one, but i think i need something slightly longer than that and i am from the UK as well plus i need the 2 drive collectors to be closer to eachother.

[[_chef_]]

The longer the cable the more transfer errors can occur, please have that in mind.

[lacywest]

[QUOTE=budz;1962299]

I see, they dont make them as they used to dont they?

Regarding the cable, would a quality one be any superior to any other generic cable? and from that would it make any difference?

80 wire IDE rounded cable, 99 cents, can't get it cheaper than that.

http://www.svc.com/md-24-ata-3bu.html[/QUOTE]

Interesting