Hi, I'm going to suggest going to here: http://www.badcaps.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=31 Which is Troubleshooting for TV sets and they may be able to help you. Possible you can find your exact model unfortunately not all Capacitors fail visibly. The fact that the failure is sporadic sounds as if one or more capacitors is failing and changing value beyond where the set will work.
Good Luck
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If I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself.
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Hi TBoneit and thanks for the reply.
I got a bunch of new capacitors today and replaced them all but the smallest one (the ones you see in my pic).
Nothing, nada. The TV still turns on, but no image appears and the power led blinks in a very high frequency (as per my video).
Other than the capacitors, what else could cause that?
Thanks,
Earth -
That was why I suggested going there. there are several specs on capacitors beyond Capacitance and voltage.
The other reason was that there may be someone there now or in the past that has faced this problem and the resolution to it.
Interesting reading how many there have bought broke sets cheap and fixed them also.
Good LuckIf I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself. -
Hi TBoneit,
I went to the website and got the capacitor specs from there before I bought them. So now I'm not too sure what to do.
What else can be replaced? Is there a light bulb or something that might be faulty?
Cheers, -
Did you ask for any help with the error you are seeing, The flashing red light? There seem to be some knowledgeable people there.
If I'd known I was going to live this long, I'd have taken better care of myself. -
If the sound works fine that usually means the power supply is OK. "The screen kinda turns on" seems as if the backlight doesn't turn on. Apart from capacitor/power supply issues, one other gremlin with standard LCD TVs is the backlight assembly. When I say "assembly" I mean the whole chain: inverter supply (may or may not be separate from main power supply, with its own capacitor issues), inverter, then fluorescent lamps (CCFL, 2 or 4 depending on model). Depending on the design, when a CCFL becomes bad, the inverter may not turn on at all to prevent further damage. It's also possible for the inverter itself to become defective: the inverter transformers run hot, and if itself is not damaged, its pins may become cold-soldered to the PCB. Also, if not plugged tight, the connectors leading to the CCFL heat up then gradually melt or burn the connector itself.
Of the 100% power that an LCD TV or monitor consumes, some say between 60 to 80% is sucked up just by the backlight. That's why LED backlight has saved the day.Last edited by turk690; 17th Aug 2012 at 19:20.
For the nth time, with the possible exception of certain Intel processors, I don't have/ever owned anything whose name starts with "i". -
Thanks ChellShock great video and it worked perfectly just be careful you don't use too much solder or you could short out the printed circuit board. Great advice. Best Regards Steve
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Hi there
I too have a samsung 32 inch that blew tonight. I was watching a movie from my laptop through my tv with a standard hdmi lead plugged into the side port of the tv (think it was hdmi 3). I finished the movie, and shutdown my laptop. I then went to take the hdmi lead out of the tv and when i did the tv went off. i now cant switch it back on, no standby light or nothing. So i plugged the hdmi lead back in ( not plugged into anything the other end) and like magic the tv came back on. I proceeded to putting the tv back on to tv mode by pressing source on the remote. I then took the hdmi lead back out and the tv went off again, no standby light, nothing, and no is dead. I have turned it off at the mains, unplugged it, everything, but no joy. Can anyone help? -
Yea, Samsung used junk capacitors and had a class action suit filed against them and settled. Most of the LCD's will be repaired at no cost provided yours is one of those covered. Call 1-888-899-7602 and have your model number and serial number ready to start a claim. As long as it was bullt prior to 12/31/08 it's covered. I have this issue and called and was told I didn't qualify even though my model number (LN52A750) was one using the bad parts, but since mine was built 1/1/09 I lost out!!! ARE YOU KIDDING ME? ONE DAY LATER WHEN THEY WERE STILL USING THE SAME PARTS AND I LOSE OUT? Yea, so much for good will to customers. Any bets if I EVER buy another Samsung product in my lifetime? What do they say about good will? Take care of a customer and he tells 3 people. Screw a customer and he tells 30!!! Guess I won't be only one who loses out on a stupid decision.
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my samsung tv won't turn on but the sound plays
it makes a whirring sound like it is trying to turn on, but after a few seconds it clicks back off, then goes back on.
model number is: HLN507W1X/XAA
plz reply -
Hmm. So I'm not the only one who's been through the Samsung run-around. My second bad Samsung unit was returned two years ago. It took almost two years total to get those two cases settled (refund, replacements no longer available even though Best Buy still had one of the models on store shelves!). Like an idiot, while waiting for case #2 to be resolved I bought Samsung TV #3 (Yeah. I know.). #3 lasted just under 3 months when the pictured turned blue. This time around, I wasted no time or angst: I threw #3 into my car's back seat and drove it directly to a recycling dump, where I had the supreme satisfaction of personally pitching it onto a downward unloading ramp and watching it smash itself to pieces when it struck bottom.
Never again.Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 13:50.
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This is most likely our classic capacitor issue; see above.
If I imagine correctly, drive to the red and green died. This is a defect distinct from the capacitor issue. One weakest link in any liquid crystal display is the electrical connection to the LCD cells themselves. The conductor has to be transparent, and neither can it be soldered nor crimped on. If there are just a few elements, like in 7-segment displays, a conductive rubber strip is used which applies pressure between the transparent conductors on the glass panel and the PCB contacts. This is multiplied thousands of times for an LCD TV and the rubber isn't practical. Instead, a flat conductor is machine-aligned and glued to the panel itself. This arrangement can be sensitive to shock: dropping the LCD TV even a few inches onto any hard surface or unintentionally giving it a few sharp knocks have been known to make some of these connections intermittent or open. If this happens, there is absolutely no way to repair the same short of replacing the panel, or as sanlyn did, dump it.
But before reaching this point, some LCD TVs have separate circuitry that drives the panel electronics, with a slim shielded multi-connector between the two. If this can be accessed, plugging and unplugging this connector gingerly may clear up intermittent picture misbehaviour (if the problem is not the 1st I outlined above).
It's just tough you guys are far from me. If you were anywhere near YYZ, I'll inspect & repair your TVs for y'all, free. You buy the parts, and a few Corona lite.Last edited by turk690; 19th Aug 2012 at 12:07.
For the nth time, with the possible exception of certain Intel processors, I don't have/ever owned anything whose name starts with "i". -
turk690, you are one of very few techs I've encountered that actually seems to know something about TV innards. Of the 3 TV's I tried to get fixed while waiting for Samsung Customer Abuse to take action of some kind, I carted those sets to 8 shops. One was a 3 hour drive each way. Another said they'd replace the main board in set #3 but Samsung no longer had parts -- this, for a brand new TV. Three claimed the earlier sets were "fixed", main board replaced, no charge (you're darn right, no charge -- my calibration settings and Favorites were still programmed and the problems were still there). Amazing. I was waiting for one of them to tell me that the secret to fixing #3 was to bury an old sock in the back yard at midnight.
Surely there are knowledgeable techs the likes you out there, but they seem few, far between, and far away. You should charge more; after all, you have little competition out there.
I won't single out Samsung for problems. They're obviously a major offender, but that could happen with any other brand (I already had one SONY defect, replaced the next day at the store, no problem). Nowadays, name doesn't mean that much. Dumb design and shoddy builds come from everywhere.Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 13:50.
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I don't quite understand why you wouldn't just have it repaired under warranty.
If you try to do it yourself you can expose yourself to lethal voltages, plus if you screw it up you will definitely invalidate your warranty.
Those youtube videos usually make things look simpler than they really are. -
My impression is they're no longer under warranty. But even if they were, Samsung et al will surely find ways of saying they no longer are, so you have to fork over for inspection & repair, which in turn doesn't guarantee they will be in fact be repaired.
In conventional LCD TVs, the fluorescent lamp backlight did have high voltage (~1kV) emanating from the inverter, driving the lamps themselves. But the current is so low and the connectors well shielded there is little danger of getting hit by it. And it's nowhere near the ~20kV typical of CRT TVs. With LCD TVs now backlit with LEDs, all high voltage (apart from that coming from the AC mains) is gone.
This fact is most assuredly true. When I once opened up an LCD TV, I took it as an opportunity to show the otherwise techie owner, and all the other free-loaders and hangers-on in the vicinity the finer art of Electrolytic Capacitor Replacement. It was already live and painstaking and they had a jab at soldering the capacitors in, but left alone to their own devices made it clear they will not attempt the same anytime soon. Which is why I'm curious as to just how effective those YouTube videos are with LCD TV owners and the lot.For the nth time, with the possible exception of certain Intel processors, I don't have/ever owned anything whose name starts with "i". -
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Yep, they thought they could put one over on you. Amazing indeed. Amazing how often they (successfully) pull that on ignorant customers. This time they misjudged their customer.
It's very widespread for folks to get charged for bogus repairs or service. A little OT, but one time I rode my motorcycle in to a stealership for valve clearance check, and my wife was outside to pick me up. They told me if I'd rather wait, they'd have it done in less than an hour. No thanks, I said, appointment canceled.
Why? Because it has to be done on a *cold* engine and involves a rather time-consuming teardown of the engine's top end. Absolutely impossible to do in an hour on a hot engine. They were gonna listen to the valves instead for a few minutes and then stretch it out to an hour to make it seem like they did something. (If you can hear each valve ticking, they're seating properly, which is the main thing. But that's not what you pay for, you pay to have them in specification.) Then they were gonna charge me $400 bucks for it. **** you, I''ll do it myself. And so I did, with the assistance of the service manual.Last edited by fritzi93; 19th Aug 2012 at 22:38.
Pull! Bang! Darn! -
I use a Samsung LCD 22" TV. Suddenly on a day, when I turned on the TV, no picture would come but sound came through. I called up Samsung customer service and they said it was faulty board. The guy came over, disassembled my TV and confirmed what they told me on phone. Since I am not an electronic expert, I was totally at their mercy. He said the replacement board will cost around Rs 8000 (USD 175). I postponed the replacement because I had another TV. One day, while I was tinkering with the TV remote settings, I saw that Samsung TV contrast had somehow reset back to '0'. When I increased it, voila! picture was back. I feel lucky that I postponed the board replacement and saved myself money.
I hope you might also be suffering the same problem. Try it... -
Last edited by sanlyn; 19th Mar 2014 at 13:51.
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There is a quick fix on this that Samsung is paying for the repairs whether 1 month old or 4 years old. Thought I would send this since there are a lot of posts on this issue. Called Samsung and they took care of the issue (so far) I have a Model LN-T5271F (52" LCD) purchased 1/12/08. It's well out of warranty, but I guess the capacitor issue I've been reading about is covered under a limited warranty/settlement. Samsung just lost the lawsuit for the 10V rated capacitors they put on 12V power-board. The capacitors ramp up the current to turn on the TV, and rated too low, eventually fail. It's for certain models. Go to http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/ or 888-899-7602 You may be able to get the TV repaired for free. The clicking is the retry on the power board after it fails. It will continually try to turn on, but the capacitors have trouble supplying the required voltage. To check yourself, remove the back, you'll see bad capacitor tops bowed upward, maybe some black tar leaking also. They'll be labeled 10V on a 12V rated board. A proposed Settlement has been reached in a class action lawsuit involving certain Samsung televisions. In cooperation with the District Court of Oklahoma County, Samsung Electronics America, Inc. is offering a settlement for certain Samsung-branded televisions manufactured prior to December 31, 2008. You may be entitled to receive the benefits of this proposed Class Action Settlement if you purchased, acquired or otherwise owned any of the following Samsung-branded televisions, and the television is experiencing or has experienced the "Covered TV Symptom(s)" as described in the proposed Settlement. The class action lawsuit alleges a defect that may cause the television to experience symptoms such as not turning on, experiencing a delay in turning on, making a clicking sound, cycling on and off, or other similar problems. Samsung denies the allegations in the lawsuit, but has agreed to settle the lawsuit to avoid the costs and uncertainty of continued litigation. Model Number Serial Numbers LCD TV LN-T******/XAA; LN**A******XZA; LNS4041DX/XAA; LNS4051DX/XAA; LNS4052DX/XAA; LNS5296DX/XAA Plasma TV's: HPT5034X/XAA; HPT5044X/XAA; HPT5054X/XAA; HPT5064X/XAA; PN42A410C1DXZA; PN42A450P1DXZA; PN50A410C1DXZA; PN50A450P1DXZA; PN50A460S4DXZA DLP TV: HLT5087SAX/XAA; HLT5087SX/XAA; HLT5089SAX/XAA; HLT5089SX/XAA; HLT5687SAX/XAA; HLT5687SX/XAA; HLT5689SAX/XAA; HLT5689SX/XAA; HLT6187SAX/XAA; HLT6187SX/XAA; HLT6189SAX/XAA; HLT6189SX/XAA For information on whether you qualify for a free repair, or for reimbursement of a repair you paid for, or for other benefits, as well as how to make a claim, please see the Full Class Action Notice below, or call 1- 888-899-7602.
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My Samsung LCD TV was covered under that settlement but the failed part wasn't the power supply board (the covered part) so they didn't fix the TV. At least there was no charge. I found a replacement CPU board for $60 and replaced it myself. It's working fine now.
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Hi there,
First post. I have a 19" LCD which I use in bedroom. Has touch sensitive button or remote to switch on. When you press remotes on/off button the red light flashes slowly 3 or 4 times and then set switches on. Or used to! Now it flickers and nothing happens. Had someone look at it and they said power board problem but they were not made any more. Then researched and found this thread. Then found new power board on Ebay and bought it. Fitted it annnnnnnnd...... still does not work!
Everything just the same, TV acknowledges remote being pressed by a slight flicker of the red light but other than tha, nothing.
Any ideas appreciated especially as I have just spent 30€ on a second power board. -
The IR sensor connects to the CPU board. Do the buttons on the TV still work? Or is it just the remote that has the problem?
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Hi, appreciate the response. No, the buttons do not work either but they are not 'buttons' as such. They are touch sensitive spots, so to speak, but they do not work either.
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Forgive my ignorance. CPU board is not the power board then? There only seem to be 2 boards in the TV.
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Inside an LCD HDTV there are usually two main boards , the CPU board and the power supply (PSU) board. Follow the cables from the controls and IR receiver -- they will be connected to the CPU board. The CPU board usually has most of the A/V inputs on it too.
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I wil have a look when I get home this eve. Then prob back to Ebay to search for replacement. Many thanks again for the input.
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just contacted samsung at 1-888-899-7602 they are going to pay for the repair and fix the problem.
http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/ -
Jagabo... I have a Samsung 32" LN32B360C5D... everything works but the video. When turning on the TV it flashes a picture about 4 times then goes black but the sound works. The power supply is working.. I know this because I already bought a power supply board that just came in today and its doing the same thing. I was thinking of replacing the main board which runs about $70.
My question is.. did your TV behave the same way with the sound working and picture goes black after turning on?
Cheers
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