RCA Jacks clarification.

[edDV]

Hello edDv. Thanks for the feedback also! The only reason I used those cheap cables was because that's all I had on hand from my old 1990 RCA TV which had various components connected using them. I had a feeling there were better cables out there but wanted something to get me started. You fully answered my last question to Jagabo, so thanks. (Jagabo, no need to reply on that one now.) I will go find and buy the premium cables soon. A guy at work here said to look at monoprice.com for good cables at cheap prices. He buys his PC cables there and thinks they may also have audio and video ones. If you have any comment on their cables, good or bad, I'd welcome it. Jagabo, you also.

Thanks again, S Caldwell

Please answer if you are using a surround audio receiver because that affects cabling required. Also how are you getting your HDTV signal? Antenna? Cable? Sat?

Monoprice is good. You should be able to get HDMI, analog componet and digital audio cables all under $20 each. No reason to spend more except for long cable lengths.

[jagabo]

For the jacks labeled COMPON 1 IN, Samsung made the Green one (I think) dual usage and it has a yellow circle around it. I wish they didn't do this and put the composite Yellow off to the side of the RGB jacks in its own jack. But anyways, because of the dual shared jack the TV must've thought I was feeding it a true RGB component signal (because I had composite Yellow in one and Audio in the other two) and therefore it tried to use the audio signals going into the Pb and Pr as valid video signals, causing the color and other picture problems. Given this new info, would you agree that the bad picture makes sense?

Yes, that make perfect sense. I was assuming you had a separate composite input.

I was not aware of a DVD player's composite and composite Y pin sharing. If by "pin" you mean female port or jack, is this DVD setup choice directly related to the Yellow/Green jack sharing setup I just described?

The player will usually have separate composite (yellow) and Y (green) outputs on the outside. But internally, the two are the same pin on the chip that puts out analog video. So, yes, it's analogous to the shared pin on your TV, just backwards, or inside out, or something.

Continuing on, the picture looked very good (but not fantastic) after I undid all my connections and hooked up the RGB component jacks 1-to-1 and the 2 audio jacks 1-to-1. A guy at work told me today to throw out my cheap red/white/yellow RCA cables and get dedicated RBG comp video cables as a replacement.

He is right!

Final question. Is the RGB component connection with the two audios off to the side (my new proper setup) equal to, worse than, or better than just using an HDMI cable.

HDMI should be better (it avoids the digital-to-analog-to-digital conversion) but the difference will probably be very small (unless there's something unusual about the player or TV). I would use HDMI because it's theoretically better and the wiring is simpler.

Amazon.com and Newegg.com are fine for cables too. If you have a Fry's locally they often have 6 to 10 foot HDMI cables for about $6.

[caldwell]

EdDV, thanks for the additional picture and followup. I am using my TV only for the audio but will search this forum for the best overall surround receiver/amp I can buy for under $700. That same guy at work is telling me to look at Onyko in particular.

My DVD player does have an HDMI port so I'll go that route with the digital audio also. As far as the HDMI cable and where to get it, will search this forum to see if a reviewer on xxxxxxxx site (a major online seller) is correct when he stated, "I am using HDMI v1.3b cables that only cost a dollar from BargainCell. Images are awesome. Don't spend more than that for HDMI cables!!! Research the web or look at the reviews for HDMI cables on xxxxxxxxx (site) to find out why. You will not notice any difference in image quality no matter how expensive an HDMI cable is." I simply cannot believe a good cable could be mfg'd for such a cheap price. I like to save money but don't think I should gamble too much on cable quality and price.

Thanks, S Caldwell

[jagabo]

HDMI is pretty much an all or nothing deal. If it works, it works. If it doesn't it doesn't (the picture is totally garbled or you get no picture at all). Almost all of them will work up to 1080p at 10 feet or less.

Note: I added a little bit about cables in my previous post.

[caldwell]

Jagabo, thanks for the feedback on all of those issues. I think I'm clear now on the direction to take. That guy at my work is telling me I still may not be happy (because he knows I'm a perfectionist) unless I go with a BlueRay player instead of my current 2 year old DVD player, so I'll start shopping around for one of those soon. He said to just buy a Playstation 3 because it has the best BlueRay on the market built right in. I'll research that claim, although I tend to believe him.

Thanks, S Caldwell

[edDV]

EdDV, thanks for the additional picture and followup. I am using my TV only for the audio but will search this forum for the best overall surround receiver/amp I can buy for under $700. That same guy at work is telling me to look at Onyko in particular.

My DVD player does have an HDMI port so I'll go that route with the digital audio also. As far as the HDMI cable and where to get it, will search this forum to see if a reviewer on xxxxxxxx site (a major online seller) is correct when he stated, "I am using HDMI v1.3b cables that only cost a dollar from BargainCell. Images are awesome. Don't spend more than that for HDMI cables!!! Research the web or look at the reviews for HDMI cables on xxxxxxxxx (site) to find out why. You will not notice any difference in image quality no matter how expensive an HDMI cable is." I simply cannot believe a good cable could be mfg'd for such a cheap price. I like to save money but don't think I should gamble too much on cable quality and price.

Thanks, S Caldwell

A $10-30 HDMI cable would be reasonable from Monoprice. Don't cheap out on cables but don't pay more either. You can buy one for around $24 at Wallmart (usually a Philips or RCA).

The single HDMI cable should work for video and audio to the TV. You will need to set menus correctly at the player and TV.

If you get a surround receiver you can either connect pass through HDMI to the receiver, or feed the receiver an optical or coax digital audio. There are various connection alternatives. Best to hire an installer to do it right.

And how are you getting your broadcast signal?

[caldwell]

Jagabo, excellent, I'll keep that all in mind when looking for my HDMI cable. Saw your other post about newegg and Amazon.

Only other thing that has me concerned for now is that in my DVD player's online setup, when I looked at it quicky this morning, said nothing about 720 or 1080p. Best resolution it appeared to have is 480p (I think) in 16:9 format, so I chose it. For a player only 2 years old and costing a moderate price at the time, I'd expect 720 capability at least. Does this surprise you or am I just not educated enough when it comes to resolution choices in newer DVD players?

Thanks, S Caldwell

[edDV]

Only other thing that has me concerned for now is that in my DVD player's online setup, when I looked at it quicky this morning, said nothing about 720 or 1080p. Best resolution it appeared to have is 480p (I think) in 16:9 format, so I chose it. For a player only 2 years old and costing a moderate price at the time, I'd expect 720 capability at least. Does this surprise you or am I just not educated enough when it comes to resolution choices in newer DVD players?

Thanks, S Caldwell

A commercial disc will be limited to 480i or 480p over HDMI. Probably better to connect 480i and let the HDTV do the upscale. The LN46B750 is more highly capable than most any DVD player for upscale plus it will process to 120Hz.

If you set the player to 480p, 720p or 1080i, the processing will be done in the player. 720p and 1080i will only be allowed for non-encrypted, non copy protected DVD discs.

[caldwell]

EdDV, great, thanks for the additional HDMI info. Don't have a Frys near me (Jagabo recomm) but do have a Walmart so I'll compare theirs to the online ones and make a decision.

Finally, about my HD source. I just moved into a new house rental and don't have a true external HD source yet, although it does have a DirectTV dish all set up and ready to use. My local choices here in Kentucky are Comcast, DirectTV, and some newer AT&T source, and I'm leaning towards DirectTV because of the low price. Question: Until I have one of these sources turned on, what are the chances that if I take the coaxial cable that goes out to that DirectTV dish and plug it into my TV Ant's jack, I'll get a signal decent enough to receive the 'free' digital TV stations that are out there? Are there any risks in doing this? We have a lot of power and lightening problems here in central KY and using a non-functioning dish as an antenna worries me somewhat.

I will consider the consultant for professional install if I get to the point down the road where I think I may potentially ruin another video or audio card (not that I have time time) because I cannot correctly wire the HD source with my new surround receiver. Again, I'm hoping these comp mfgr's design the circuitry to be at least somewhat idiot proof and hopefully "bark" when such a bad connection is made, enough for the user know immediately.

Thanks, S Caldwell

[caldwell]

OK, great, thanks EdDV. Looks like I do have something to learn about the resolutions then. I'll remember what you said here and then do further research later if needed. Don't be surprised if I have a follow-up question for you on this subject a month or two from now when I have more gear. You and Jagabo have been a great help so far. If you feel that any circuitry damage could've occurred in my initial setup, please let me know. Jagabo doesn't think so and I'll trust his opinion unless I see or learn otherwise. Only reason I'm making an issue about it is that I saved up a year to buy the darn thing and something goes wrong right off the bat. Reminds me of when I bought a new car last fall and a salesman spilled gasoline all over it right after I signed the papers.

Thanks, S Caldwell

[edDV]

EdDV, great, thanks for the additional HDMI info. Don't have a Frys near me (Jagabo recomm) but do have a Walmart so I'll compare theirs to the online ones and make a decision.

Finally, about my HD source. I just moved into a new house rental and don't have a true external HD source yet, although it does have a DirectTV dish all set up and ready to use. My local choices here in Kentucky are Comcast, DirectTV, and some newer AT&T source, and I'm leaning towards DirectTV because of the low price. Question: Until I have one of these sources turned on, what are the chances that if I take the coaxial cable that goes out to that DirectTV dish and plug it into my TV Ant's jack, I'll get a signal decent enough to receive the 'free' digital TV stations that are out there? Are there any risks in doing this? We have a lot of power and lightening problems here in central KY and using a non-functioning dish as an antenna worries me somewhat.

I will consider the consultant for professional install if I get to the point down the road where I think I may potentially ruin another video or audio card (not that I have time time) because I cannot correctly wire the HD source with my new surround receiver. Again, I'm hoping these comp mfgr's design the circuitry to be at least somewhat idiot proof and hopefully "bark" when such a bad connection is made, enough for the user know immediately.

Thanks, S Caldwell

The Walmart HDMI cable will be more expensive but you can buy one today.

Try a rabbit ears* with your TV to see if you have any close over the air stations. Scan the tuner in the TV.

The DirectTV dish won't receive local over the air TV. If you subscribe to DirectTV HD service you will probably need all new equipment (other than the mounting pole). In the case of cable, U-verse or DirectTV you will need to spec HD service to get HD channels. Exception is cable where HD locals will be tunable as ClearQam with basic service and no cable box.

Enter your address into www.antennaweb.org to get a list of local digital stations, their distance and direction.


* Samsung usually includes a simple wire dipole antenna in the box.

[caldwell]

OK, thanks EdDV. My thinking on using the existing DirectTV dish as an antenna was the coaxial wiring going through the walls and out to the dish, and the metal in the dish, if any (looks more like plastic or fiberglass), could pick up a signal. If that doesn't work and neither do the rabbit ears, I'll go buy a decent Terk one. Was just curious more than anything. Trying to save money for now. I have trouble even getting decent radio stations down here. Closest big city is Louisville. I'll check out that local digital station link though, thanks.

I have never hear of ClearQam but will google it to see what it's all about.

Any yes, you nailed it, "U-Verse" was that AT&T product I keep getting flyers in the mail for.

Steve

[jagabo]

A commercial disc will be limited to 480i or 480p over HDMI.

This is not true. As long as the port supports HDCP the player can upscale. My Philips DVP-5992 outputs 1080p60 to my Samsung LNT-4665, no problem. But you are right about letting a high end HDTV do the upscaling and frame rate conversion instead.

[edDV]

A commercial disc will be limited to 480i or 480p over HDMI.

This is not true. As long as the port supports HDCP the player can upscale. My Philips DVP-5992 outputs 1080p60 to my Samsung LNT-4665, no problem. But you are right about letting a high end HDTV do the upscaling instead.

I stand corrected. I was thinking analog component which usually does limit to 480i/480p with commercial DVD.

But still 480i over HDMI will let the model 750 TV do all the work and probably result in a better upscaled picture.

[caldwell]

OK, thanks for clarifying that issue EdDV and Jagabo. I'm glad my TV is upscale enough to do things like that when it needs to. Hopefully at some point down the road here I won't have to question my picture quality like I am now. Let me get those cables and wash my mind of the recent hookup problem. I've also got to get that amazing Samsung LED TV image out of my head. Cannot expect same image on my LCD. Was at Best Buy a few weeks ago and they had one on display and the picture was so clear it was almost fake, too good.

Steve

[usually_quiet]

A commercial disc will be limited to 480i or 480p over HDMI. Probably better to connect 480i and let the HDTV do the upscale. The LN46B750 is more highly capable than most any DVD player for upscale plus it will process to 120Hz.

If you set the player to 480p, 720p or 1080i, the processing will be done in the player. 720p and 1080i will only be allowed for non-encrypted, non copy protected DVD discs.

Your statement regarding a 480p limitation on commercial DVDs over HDMI doesn't fit with what I observed when I helped my parents set up their Philips DVP3962 upscaling DVD player this year,

It is connected to a Samsung 450 series 720p TV using HDMI. If the TV picture format was 16:9 and I used the 480p setting for the DVD player, the resulting picture (playing a rented movie DVD) was letterboxed and pillarboxed. If I changed the setting for the DVD player to 720p, the movie was displayed correctly. It was letterboxed, and the entire picture was visible, filling the screen from side-to-side. That says to me the TV was receiving the video at 720p. Do you have a different explanation for what I saw?

[jagabo]

The shape of the displayed picture says little about the incoming signal. Press the Display button on the TV's remote. It will tell you the format of the signal that's currently being displayed.

[edDV]

A commercial disc will be limited to 480i or 480p over HDMI. Probably better to connect 480i and let the HDTV do the upscale. The LN46B750 is more highly capable than most any DVD player for upscale plus it will process to 120Hz.

If you set the player to 480p, 720p or 1080i, the processing will be done in the player. 720p and 1080i will only be allowed for non-encrypted, non copy protected DVD discs.

Your statement regarding a 480p limitation on commercial DVDs over HDMI doesn't fit with what I observed when I helped my parents set up their Philips DVP3962 upscaling DVD player this year,

It is connected to a Samsung 450 series 720p TV using HDMI. If the TV used its 16:9 picture format and I used the 480p setting for the DVD player, the resulting picture (playing a rented movie DVD) was letterboxed and pillarboxed. If I changed the setting for the DVD player to 720p, the movie was displayed correctly. It was letterboxed, and the entire picture was visible, filling the screen from side-to-side. That says to me the TV was receiving the video at 720p. Do you have a different explanation for what I saw?

It will depend on the TV and DVD player upscalers so each must test to see which is better. The 750 as a recent high end 120Hz upscaler so should do a better job than a generic two year old DVD player.

1. HDTV scenario 1 480p over HDMI

In this mode a progressive DVD will be delivered over HDMI as 720x480p/59.94fps with 2:3 frame repeats. A 60Hz HDTV will show that upscaled as is with the 2:3 judder. The 120Hz model 750 will process the 2:3 to 23.976p and frame repeat or frame interpolate 5x to 120Hz removing the judder.

Non-progressive DVDs will be deinterlaced and bobbed in the DVD player and delivered over HDMI as 480p/59.94. The 750 should do better than the DVD player at smart deinterlace.

2. HDTV scenario 2 480i over HDMI (predicted winner)

In this mode progressive DVDs are delivered with telecine. Non-progressive DVDs are delivered as is. The DVD player is doing no work. The TV will then deinterlace or inverse telecine and then process for 120Hz display. My bet is the 750 win at this over any inverse telecine, deinterlace or upscale in the DVD player.

One should try all modes with both types of DVD and decide based on results.

[edDV]

It is connected to a Samsung 450 series 720p TV using HDMI. If the TV used its 16:9 picture format and I used the 480p setting for the DVD player, the resulting picture (playing a rented movie DVD) was letterboxed and pillarboxed. If I changed the setting for the DVD player to 720p, the movie was displayed correctly. It was letterboxed, and the entire picture was visible, filling the screen from side-to-side. That says to me the TV was receiving the video at 720p. Do you have a different explanation for what I saw?

Here is what I think happened in that case. You had the DVD player set to 480p letterbox rather than 480p wide. That would give you the four side black edges on a 16:9 display. Pillars from the 4:3 aspect and top and bottom bars from the letterbox.

When you changed to 720p, the 16:9 wide setting was automatic. There is no letterbox mode for 720p.

DVD Player should be set this way.

480i wide aspect --- 16:9 TV (for 1920x1080p HDTV sets)

480p wide aspect --- 16:9 TV (for 1024x768p or 1366x768p HDTV sets)

Compare that to 720p or 1080i out from the DVD player and choose the better picture.

[usually_quiet]

Here is what I think happened in that case. You had the DVD player set to 480p letterbox rather than 480p wide. That would give you the four side black edges on a 16:9 display. Pillars from the 4:3 aspect and top and bottom bars from the letterbox.

When you changed to 720p, the 16:9 wide setting was automatic. There is no letterbox mode for 720p.

DVD Player should be set this way.

480i wide aspect --- 16:9 TV (for 1920x1080p HDTV sets)

480p wide aspect --- 16:9 TV (for 1024x768p or 1366x768p HDTV sets)

Compare that to 720p or 1080i out from the DVD player and choose the better picture.

As luck would have it, I had a chance to partially test this theory tonight. I picked up a rental copy of "Australa" earlier today so my folks could finally watch it.

I tried the DVD player's 480p + wide setting as well as its 720p setting. (480i is not available when using HDMI.) Differences might be more apparent using a larger TV (it's 26 inches), but on that TV one setting didn't look better than the other when watching the movie. However, the DVD player's own menu was distorted using 720p, so I left it set at 480p + wide.

Even if they never use the 720p setting again, HDMI was still the best choice because of the autolink feature available only for HDMI connections.

[Edit] I forgot to mention... Using 720p with HDMI, the TV reported 1280x720 @ 60 Hz. Using 480p, it reported 720x480 @ 60 Hz