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  1. Video Restorer lordsmurf's Avatar
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    Jun 2003
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    Early-generation (2004-2005) JVC DVD recorders had an issue in the power supply, as many folks know. JVC has this generic warning message on the machine whenever there is an error, where it flashes "LOADING" on screen (it may as well say "BROKEN" or "HELP ME").

    Apparently Panasonic has an identical issue. At least I believe so. I've heard of ES10's going bad, but now I've got one too.

    Timeline:
    - January 2005 - Machine manufactured
    - April 15, 2005 - Purchased unit (I have the receipt still)
    - April 2005 to November 2006 - Plugged in and unused infrequently for projects. It mostly sat and blinked 12:00, as I never fixed the clock. It was mostly a pass-through machine, for the filters. I recorded and played less than 10 discs on it during this time. I moved in November, unplugged it for several months.
    - April 2007 - Plugged back in, used it maybe once.
    - July 2007 - Starting to watch DVDs on it daily for about 2-3 weeks.
    - August-September 2007 - Used it for some projects .
    - October 2007 - Turned it on one day, and it started to hiss at me. There was a buzzing noise coming from the unit. It ONLY happens when a disc was spinning in the drive, or randomly at other times. I first thought it to be a drive dying. Unplugged machine. Took it apart, look inside, saw nothing.
    - January 2008 - 1-2 weeks ago - plugged back in, to use on a project.
    - January 2008 - TODAY - It was blinking 12:00, I went to turn it on, and the clock disappeared. It started to chirp at me now, instead of buzz. Once again took it apart, and noticed a brown leakage coming from a bulged capacitor. It reminded me of this post here: https://forum.videohelp.com/topic255081-480.html#1777964

    I've taken some photos
    (using Nikon D200, Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 @ f/16, ISO 800, with Kenko +4/+2 macro filters, SB800 flash -- NEF 12-bit raw shots, processed in Adobe Camera Raw CS3 - hence the clear close-ups)









    So am I correct? If so, I take it that this can be fixed easily by somebody handy at electronics. I've never tried to do this before. I've got no idea where to start. Any help?

    I was in the middle of a project, and now I'm screwed. Can't finish it.
    Want my help? Ask here! (not via PM!)
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  2. Member Krispy Kritter's Avatar
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    Jul 2003
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    St Louis, MO USA
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    Assuming the only problem is the leaking cap, it can just be replaced. It would best be done by a qualified tech, but you could likely do it yourself if you are fairly handy. The main thing is to ensure you don't overheat the board and/or surrounding components (especially the new cap you install).
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  3. Lordsmurf

    The pictures look as though they are of the same Electrolytic Capacitor.
    The one shown would indicate it popped is leaking and than most likely Opened.
    I can not see the value but the one in back and to the left indicates it is a 220 uf
    The defective one should have a uf value on it
    I don’t know the Electronics parts situation in your area but Radio Shack should have a solder gun for circuit boards [25 watts Max] and the capacitors. 15 watts would do
    The leads are through the board 180 degrees apart and soldered.
    Placing the heat gun at one solder connection and gently pushing back towards the other lead should release it.. [Than the other lead]
    Note these capacitors are polarized + and -
    When replacing Cut the capacitors leads to about ¾ inch. This will help in replacement
    Heat the board connection and push a lead through about half way than the other until seated.
    If the replacement is larger or /and the leads are closer of farther apart, and the replacement is not down against the board that’s OK. Clearance would be the only factor
    Once the replacement is in place make sure the leads are properly soldered and connected. Than clip off the excess leads

    The capacitor voltage is usually some 50 v if higher, that’s ok, It is the uf value that can be important but is not always it the replacement is within about 15%

    I agree with [Krispy Kritter]
    But I feel that the danger is with the board. Not so much with all but some if even over heated a little had a tendency for the conductive trace to lift off the board. This could be fixed but increased the problems.
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  4. Member
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    Aug 2006
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    United States
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    It seems likely there is a problem with the capacitors on the power supply board on the DMR-ES10. Mine had a power supply go bad in August of 2006, just 4 months after the 1-year warranty expired. Before it died, it displayed an error message, "SELF CHECK" , when first turned on, once or twice, before it finally died. No unusual noises that I can recall. There were several other reports of similar problems in the thread I started: https://forum.videohelp.com/topic306990-90.html

    I think there was at least one other thread created before mine, reporting something similar.

    A few people replied to my thread and reported success fixing the problem themselves. I had mine repared professionally. I also decided not to use the "quick start" feature anymore, to save electricity and reduce wear and tear on the power supply. Knock on wood, it is still fine and is used almost every day.
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